Hey Guys,
I'm looking at possibly upgrading my truck soon and just wanted to get some info. The truck I'm looking at has a sticker of $47,060.00 (F350 XLT PSD CC LB 4X4 Tow Command). It has been a long time since I've bought a new truck, so how much off the sticker should I be shooting for??????? I hate the thought of haggling all day with a dealer, so I would rather get some info from you guys. I've heard the dealers don't come down much on diesels due to the demand for them??? Anyway, if you recently have bought a new truck and the sticker was similar to this one..............what was the final deal you got???? This way I'll at least have a good idea what to look for, because sometimes I know my expectations can be a little unrealistic.

Thanx,
Roach

 

i have an 03 fx4 dually and my sticker was 47,065

friends and family deal and all rebates came to 39,???
i had a cashiers check for 5,000 made out to the dealer in my hand and told him 38,000 out the door or iam out the door with my check it took about 15 mins of iam gonna have to talk to my manager then 5 mins of the manager telling me (if i give it to you for that me my guy here and the dealer would lose money)
said OOOH iam sorry for wasting your time have a nice day and left.

They stopped me in the lot getting into my truck and said we got a deal

 

Hi roach- I boght my 2003 f250 6.0 new and paid 30,500 for it. I have a freind who used to sell cars (new) and he said that even if they sell it to you for what the paperwork shows the dealer paid for it (not the window sticker) that there is still a built in profit margin from ford for the dealer, he said on my truck the dealers made around $4000.00 how much truth there is to this I dont know but I would have a hard time beleiving they would ever lose$$$. He also talked to the dealer where my wife got her mustang and it was the same type of deal, we saved a bunch off the sticker price and the dealer still made enough to keep the lights on.-

 

Find out what the invoice is and you should be able to get it for around that less rebates. I bought my truck in November for over 10 grand off msrp.

 

The dealer should be able to sell it for at least 20% off or minimum $9,500 discount. I bought my 06 with a list of $51,700 for $40,400. Since then I bought a Ford van (for the company) and they were still offering $10,000 off the PSD's. If you want the truck, make'em an offer and be willing to walk. Just remember: A lot of the profit is in the dealer add-on's like VTR, paint sealant/undercoating, gap coverage etc. Also, the PSD has a great standard warranty, 100k engine with $100 deductable per visit after 36,000 miles... So don't buy any type of extended warranty (or gap coverage) unless you really think you need it and be very certain any extended warranty is directly from Ford (through the dealer).
Good luck

 

I know your asking about a new truck, but those salesman are all the same.
I just purchased a 2000 F250 w/7.3 . I looked at a truck for $24K. It was $4K out of my price range, but wanted to drive a lot of the Super Duty trucks before i bought one. Go in with attitude that you can find another of these truck within a few miles. I drove it, offered him $20K, he went back to manager, came back with $22K, i said, " i offered $20K, will you take $20K?". He went back to Manager and returned with manager. "will you buy truck today for $20K. Then i agreed. Then they tried to screw me w/ financing. They came back and said they could do 21% for 5 years. My credit isn't all that great, but not in single digits. I told them it was too high and deal was off. They tried to BS. I left. They called and gave me new BS line, that same bank offered 13.5% for 5 years. SOLD. I love my new 2000 truck. I can't beleive they were going to screw me for $4k from price and 7.5 % from interest. That was the easiest $4k i ever made. SLIMEBALLS.

 

Just picked up an 07' F250 lariat Crew two tone fully loaded. Sticker was just over 50,000 After rebates and some haggling I ws out the door for 42,000. Maybe not the best deal in the world but I was happy.

 

Go to Blueovalnews.com and ask for an X-Plan pin # (Do a search in there forum section)

 

You need to do your homework to answer this question, Go to edmunds.com and look up the value of the truck you are considering. You must enter the options and your zip code to get an accurate quote. Calculate what "invoice price" is with all the options the truck has. If you can't remember all the options, many Ford dealerships post their inventory online at their website. Many of these same Ford dealers also post the window sticker for their inventory. To be sure your information from edmunds is current, compare the MSRP on edmunds to the MSRP on the truck's window sticker. If they match then you have the current pricing. My experience has been that it almost always matches and the few times it didn't was because the vehicle had been in inventory so long that there had been a price change (something you can use to your advantage). Check on Edmunds for any and all rebates offered on these vehicles. My starting offer would be dealer invoice price less the rebates. (rebates stay in your pocket, always). Rebates should never be used as a bargaining chip as they are stated up front as a discount from the price of the truck. Also check the fine print in the rebate offers as not all rebates apply to all purchasers. Some are for Military only, some are for farm vehicles, some are for people who currently own the same manufacter vehicle, and my favorite is the one that only applies if you have the vehicle set up with handicap controls. My final offer would not exceed $200 over invoice (less rebates) and only that given grudgingly. If you are looking at a hot property such as the '08 superduties you may have trouble getting to that price as there are too many people willing to overpay to have the bragging rights of owning a new exciting vehicle. Sometimes you can work this deal with the dealership's "web person" or "fleet dealer" but my experience shows many of these people don't understand how savvy an internet buyer is. The sales guys get it, sometimes right away but usually after a battle. Since I discovered how much I had been paying above what I should 15 years ago, I have used this method on every new vehicle I purchased since and never paid more than $200 over invoice (less rebates), most at invoice. Without this knowledge, I gaurantee they will have more of your money than they deserve when the deal is done. Ask yourself, does the dealership take this information into account before they sell a vehicle? Then you should consider the same when buying. Good luck.