pinion seal
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Plugs, not spark
Ford 9 inch rear axle: One drain plug was used from 1957 and later, two different sized fill plugs were used.
87837-S Drain Plug .. 3/8"
379166-S Fill Plug .. 7/8" -18
358048-S Fill Plug .. 3/4" -14
87837-S Drain Plug .. 3/8"
379166-S Fill Plug .. 7/8" -18
358048-S Fill Plug .. 3/4" -14
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
For the uninitiated, the term "pumpkin" refers to the whole removable cast-iron differential housing, which is fastened to the axle housing with a large circle of nuts on studs. If there is no plug in the back, look for one on the side of the cast-iron portion of the "pumpkin" about 4" from the bottom. If it is a recessed square or hex drive, it can hide under a layer of grease & dirt.
You are not crazy. Worst case a "pumpkin" with no fill hole was installed in a housing with no fill hole. (How did they put the oil in? Pull an axle?)
You are not crazy. Worst case a "pumpkin" with no fill hole was installed in a housing with no fill hole. (How did they put the oil in? Pull an axle?)
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Ford 9 inch rear end housings have 10 studs which use castle locknuts to attach the "Pumpkin."
Official Ford name for pumpkin: Differential Carrier Assembly (4141).
Official Ford name for pumpkin: Differential Carrier Assembly (4141).
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 3, 2007 at 01:36 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Bill,
It is always nice to get official part numbers, but I appreciate getting the official Ford names. They are not always the same as the (un-named) competition and then there are all the slang names which vary all over the country.
In '69 I was mechanic at a MA Ford dealership. The parts guy loved to correct my improper names. I don't think I got a part the whole summer without getting lectured on proper nomenclature. (I don't think it was Bill, because my parts guy was already "old as the hills".)
It is always nice to get official part numbers, but I appreciate getting the official Ford names. They are not always the same as the (un-named) competition and then there are all the slang names which vary all over the country.
In '69 I was mechanic at a MA Ford dealership. The parts guy loved to correct my improper names. I don't think I got a part the whole summer without getting lectured on proper nomenclature. (I don't think it was Bill, because my parts guy was already "old as the hills".)
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
I just took a hard look at my '65 Ford shop manual and the differential carrier housing (pumpkin) has a boss (thick place in the casting) shown on the driver's side of the housing. There is no hole in the one pictured, but that is where the fill plug will be - on the driver's side (left side), about 4" up from the very bottom, in between the two lower ribs.
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Senior User
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thanks acheda, i found it under a ton of sludge. back into working on it after battle with the flu. now... that "sleeve" (not sure of the proper name) under the seal and infront of the bearing... what purpose does this serve? and when i removed the old seal i caused a bit of damage to it but as far as i can see it is not cracked. is this okay?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Actually we need to talk about two sleeves.
The speedy sleeve is a thin stainless steel sleeve that arctic y block is describing. You should take the yoke in when you get your NEW seal to make certain it fits and the parts counter guy should be able to decide on whether you need the speedy sleeve, otherwise called a repair sleeve in some quarters.
The other sleeve is the crush sleeve which lives behind the bearing. You should consider replacing it if you want to get a lot of miles out of the rear end. Re-read all the above posts - I think this was all covered in detail.
The condition of the old seal is not important as you are going to throw it away, but hopefully you did not do much damage to the cast-iron bore the seal was pressed into.
The speedy sleeve is a thin stainless steel sleeve that arctic y block is describing. You should take the yoke in when you get your NEW seal to make certain it fits and the parts counter guy should be able to decide on whether you need the speedy sleeve, otherwise called a repair sleeve in some quarters.
The other sleeve is the crush sleeve which lives behind the bearing. You should consider replacing it if you want to get a lot of miles out of the rear end. Re-read all the above posts - I think this was all covered in detail.
The condition of the old seal is not important as you are going to throw it away, but hopefully you did not do much damage to the cast-iron bore the seal was pressed into.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by custom cabby
thanks acheda, i found it under a ton of sludge. back into working on it after battle with the flu. now...
THAT "sleeve" (highlighted in bold) (not sure of the proper name) under the seal and infront of the bearing... what purpose does this serve? and when i removed the old seal i caused a bit of damage to it but as far as i can see it is not cracked. is this okay?
THAT "sleeve" (highlighted in bold) (not sure of the proper name) under the seal and infront of the bearing... what purpose does this serve? and when i removed the old seal i caused a bit of damage to it but as far as i can see it is not cracked. is this okay?Ford sez...
Pinion nut = pinion washer = flange assembly universal joint-axle end = pinion oil seal = pinion shaft oil slinger = driving pinion bearing = driving pinion bearing cup = drive pinion bearing spacer = driving pinion retainer = driving pinion bearing cup = driving pinion bearing = pinion.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Common terms...
Pinion nut = pinion washer = companion flange = pinion seal = oil slinger = pinion bearing = pinion race = crush sleeve = bearing retainer = pinion race = pinion bearing = pinion
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 7, 2007 at 08:19 PM.
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Senior User
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messed up. set the seal before i put the washer in place. had to destroy that seal and pull it out. the real kicker is that i went today and got another seal and it is completely different looking from the other one, meaning the original and the one i put in initially. it has a lip on it on the outer diameter and feels more bulkier. i asked him to make sure and i even saw it on the computer that he looked up... it is supposed to be for it. any clues? will try it tonite but not holding my breath.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Different manufacturers can make seals look different, but there are some dimensions that must be correct:
The inside of the seal must fit the outside of the yoke. You can take the yoke along & try it in the seal. The sealing surface should have to stretch slightly to fit the yoke. The sealing lip will need to be lubricated.
The outside of the seal where it seats in the pinion carrier (the part with five bolts holding it to the differential carrier), must fit the bore of the pinion carrier with a press fit. This means it will have to be carefully tapped into place AFTER sealant is applied.
There are other things that may be present on some seals and not on others:
o There may be a flange on the outside diameter.
o There may be a felt dust seal on the front side of the seal.
The inside of the seal must fit the outside of the yoke. You can take the yoke along & try it in the seal. The sealing surface should have to stretch slightly to fit the yoke. The sealing lip will need to be lubricated.
The outside of the seal where it seats in the pinion carrier (the part with five bolts holding it to the differential carrier), must fit the bore of the pinion carrier with a press fit. This means it will have to be carefully tapped into place AFTER sealant is applied.
There are other things that may be present on some seals and not on others:
o There may be a flange on the outside diameter.
o There may be a felt dust seal on the front side of the seal.
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