I put a compressor, tank and air horns on my 99 350 dually and I would like to tie them into the OEM horns if I could find the darn wires.I know where the horns are but i dont see the wire harness going to them.
I really didnt want to break into the harness running across the cowl and start testing but may have to unless someone Knows where they are or what color to look for. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Chuck

 

I wish I could remember the wire color, but I don't. I do know I used a test light to find the wire in the wire bundle along the cowl and tapped into it. It didn't take long to have my son honk the horn while I stabbed different wires with the test light. The horn is under the right front fender and the wiring is hard to get to.

 

I tapped into the horn wiring right under the steering column before it goes into the fuse panel where it is still blue. However, I vaguely remember someone saying that the wiring out in the engine compartment is yellow and black? Maybe yellow with a black trace?

Matt

 

The easiest way is to tap into the steering column harness blue wire coming from the OEM horn button on the steering wheel. It is solid blue & it is a ground wire, not a hot wire. It triggers the OEM horns by grounding them.

Put a DTSP (Radio shack) switch on the dash and wire the blue wire thru it to a relay (Radio shack) to trigger your air horns. You run two ground wires from your switch to the two different horn setups.

This way you can use either of the horn setups by selecting it with the new dash switch installed.

 

Lonewolf - I know that, in some of the later models, horn ring is also multiplexed on one of the cruise control wires (wire a siren in, turn your cruise control on, and the siren goes too - rather embarassing).

Are you certain that the blue wire is straight to the horn ring?

 

It works on my '06 so I would assume you can try it on your '99. Look, you are only cutting a ground wire and if it doesn't work just reconnect it. It isn't that hard to access to try it out. Right?

Here is the switch . . .

 

Behind the fuse box

Yellow with Green Tracer....this is a positive polarity wire, so you don't need a relay.



SPDT toggle switch:
1. Connect the end that gets power when you push the horn button and connect that to the middle pole (the end coming from the fuse box)
2. Connect the other end to either of the outer poles
3. Connect the wire going to your solenoid to the remaining outer pole.

Result:
Allows you to choose which horn is sounded by the position of your toggle switch when you push the horn button. ie. toggle in up position will cause the air horn to sound when you push the horn button, toggle in the down position will cause your factory horn to sound when you push the horn button.

Hope this helps

 

Well I got the yellow part right! lol

Matt

 

I did the same thing.

I wired it so when I hit the horn- the high beams come on as well. Figured if the horn gets 'em looking my way, I want to give them something to see.

 

I wired my 99 F250 air horns thru the OEM horn button and wiring harness.
I cut the yellow - black striped wire from the horn button, and hooked the upstream end to the common terminal on a single pole double through relay. I hooked the downstream end and the air horn solinoid wire to the A and B terminals of the relay. I powered the relay using a piggy-backed fuse to an ignition switch controlled circuit. This configuration causes the relay to energize when the ignition was on, causing the air horns to be wired to the horn button. Turning the ignition switch off causes the relay to deenergize and put the electric horns back in service. This gives me electric horns for my remote entry system (honks on double clicking lock) and in case I accidently hit the panic button. I have a lighted switch in the wire used to power up the relay. When the light is on, I have air horns. I can deenergize the air horns with that switch if I need to use only the electric horns (haven't used it yet, but it is there).
This configuration required running only one wire thru the firewall. A word of caution on wiring the compressor: wire the compressor to an ignition switch controlled circuit. If you don't and you have a leak or tubing failure, the compressor will continue to run until you find it, the comressor dies, or the battery dies.
For added enjoyment of my air horn investment, I discarded the 1/8" solinoid and installed a 3/8" solinoid and ran 3/8" tubing from the tank to the solinoid. Very, Very, Very Loud .

 

On the back of the CJB there are six connectors, four grouped together inboard and two grouped to the outside. Which connector is the correct yel/lg wire in or what's the wire number from the plug?
TIA

Later...
Brewster...

 

Air Horns are finally in and functional. They are triggered by the normal horn button on the steering wheel. System has an
"armed" switch to allow the compressor to work. It then has an "activation" switch to allow the solenoids to work from
the horn button. Power is relayed under the hood.
The Horns are mounted in the left and right front fenderwells. Pictures are below. They mount transversely and are
angled down for fitment and with the added benefit of allowing dirt and water to empty.
The compressor is mounted to the left front inner frenderwell below and inboard of the two (2) air tanks. They are
mounted where the second battery would be in a diesel. Picture is below.








Later...
Brewster...

 

Howdy everyone -

First post here. Sorry for bringing up such an old thread, but I found it through a search, so figured it was better than starting a new one.

I'm going to be hooking up some air horns soon and have a question about the above wiring and pictures. On a 2006 F250, what color is the ground and hot wire for the horn? I'd rather tap into the ground, but can go either way, depending on what is easiest.

Also, where is the best place to run a wire through the firewall?

Thanks for the help. Looking forward to being part of the forum.

- Steve

 

Note my posting below . . .

02-28-2007, 08:16 AM

 

Thanks for the welcome.... I think.

What's the answer to my question though?

Also, I am really digging the placement of your volt meter in the picture above. How do you remove that panel to mount the gauge there (or did you just drill the hole with it in place?

I'm hopefully (if my wallet allows) going to add a volt meter, pyro, and trans temp gauge in the next couple of months. I haven't been able to decide on placement though.... a-pillar is out because I don't want to lose the handle. I hadn't though of mounting it though where you've got yours.