headgaskets
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Joined: Feb 2007
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headgaskets
Has anyone done headgaskets on an Aerstar V6 with the engine in the van? I have a 95 with a blown headgasket and my Haynes says Ford clames it can be done but infers it woulden't be easy. Any helpful avise would be welcome.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
how long has head gasket been leaking, miles?
any coolant in oil and for how many miles?
if any coolant in oil for more than a couple miles, time to do lower end including crank, cam and pistons/rings will be gummed up with coolant/oil super glue...pull engine, block and crank will need solvent tank cleaning
any coolant in oil and for how many miles?
if any coolant in oil for more than a couple miles, time to do lower end including crank, cam and pistons/rings will be gummed up with coolant/oil super glue...pull engine, block and crank will need solvent tank cleaning
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Hi Nilbmot:
Welcome to our FTE forum.
The 3.0L actually appears a tiny little easier than the 4.0L by about 1 inch of clearance according to my eyeballs. At any rate, as Ken pointed out, once the upper intake, the fuel rail and the lower intake have been removed, you actually have lots of room.
My estimate is that this is a "five-knuckle job," in terms of bloody ones
Good luck
Welcome to our FTE forum.
The 3.0L actually appears a tiny little easier than the 4.0L by about 1 inch of clearance according to my eyeballs. At any rate, as Ken pointed out, once the upper intake, the fuel rail and the lower intake have been removed, you actually have lots of room.
My estimate is that this is a "five-knuckle job," in terms of bloody ones
Good luck
Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: southern colorado
I pulled the heads on my 93 4.0 (twice) with the engine in the van. As mentioned, once you move the top stuff off, tie some wiring harnesses out of the way, things start to look, and are, accessable. I was not that skilled at doing such work, and worried about Chilton's comments, but they didn't really apply.
The only somewhat tight spot was the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt, you need to get creative in positioning your body to get at some of the bolts, a ratcheting 8-10mm box end wrench with a length of pipe over it is very handy there. A click type torque wrench is necessary on reassembly.
I was taken aback by the price of a gasket kit ($125.00 for some cardboard)?, $48. for the essential new headbolts, but I know I'm way behind the times.
At any rate I offer encouragement.....go for it!
You are right to get help from the forum first, I didnt join until AFTER I screwed up my job. So good luck. Ask lots of questions.
The only somewhat tight spot was the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt, you need to get creative in positioning your body to get at some of the bolts, a ratcheting 8-10mm box end wrench with a length of pipe over it is very handy there. A click type torque wrench is necessary on reassembly.
I was taken aback by the price of a gasket kit ($125.00 for some cardboard)?, $48. for the essential new headbolts, but I know I'm way behind the times.
At any rate I offer encouragement.....go for it!
You are right to get help from the forum first, I didnt join until AFTER I screwed up my job. So good luck. Ask lots of questions.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Why bother removing the exhaust manifold? They come out with the head anyways. Just remove two bolts on each side that hold the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds.
You can separate the manifold from the head once it's outside. The combination is rather heavy though, so get another person to help carry it out of the van.
You can separate the manifold from the head once it's outside. The combination is rather heavy though, so get another person to help carry it out of the van.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 43
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From: southern colorado
Copper:
I see what you're saying but.....
On my 93 4.0, I commenced the job on the driver side, and easily removed the two bolts of the y-pipe,which then dropped down only slight amount. So moving to the passenger side, there is no tool I know of that could get betweeen the pipe and the engine block to reach those pipe bolts, I had to remove the exhaust manifold from the head so the exhaust assy could fall away. But yes, I could have attached the driver side manifold before re-installing the head, would have been easier. Like I said, joining the forum first and getting advice would have been the smart way. Thanks.
I see what you're saying but.....
On my 93 4.0, I commenced the job on the driver side, and easily removed the two bolts of the y-pipe,which then dropped down only slight amount. So moving to the passenger side, there is no tool I know of that could get betweeen the pipe and the engine block to reach those pipe bolts, I had to remove the exhaust manifold from the head so the exhaust assy could fall away. But yes, I could have attached the driver side manifold before re-installing the head, would have been easier. Like I said, joining the forum first and getting advice would have been the smart way. Thanks.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi George:
I know what you mean. I had one heck of a time with those bolts on the passenger side also. It took a very long extension and swivel to get at those bolts. I shudder to know I had to put them back on
However, having a second pair of eyes and hands helps a great deal.
Anyway, my suggestions are:
On the driver's side, the rear topmost exhaust manifold bolt is impossible to reach, but the Y-pipe bolts are pretty accessible. So, remove the Y-pipe and take the driver's side head out with the manifold attached.
On the passenger side, the Y-pipe is hard to reach, but it's fairly easy to get to the 6 bolts on the exhaust manifold. Get those 6 bolts off and the passenger side head can come out by itself.
I know what you mean. I had one heck of a time with those bolts on the passenger side also. It took a very long extension and swivel to get at those bolts. I shudder to know I had to put them back on
However, having a second pair of eyes and hands helps a great deal.
Anyway, my suggestions are:
On the driver's side, the rear topmost exhaust manifold bolt is impossible to reach, but the Y-pipe bolts are pretty accessible. So, remove the Y-pipe and take the driver's side head out with the manifold attached.
On the passenger side, the Y-pipe is hard to reach, but it's fairly easy to get to the 6 bolts on the exhaust manifold. Get those 6 bolts off and the passenger side head can come out by itself.
Last edited by copper_90680; Feb 27, 2007 at 11:55 AM.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 43
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From: southern colorado
I just had a "I hate this stinkin' aero day".
After 146,000 miles, decided to replace the O2 sensor.
Ford must send their engineers to extensive training sessions on how to make things difficult.
But while I was under the van, took another look at the two exhaust flange bolts, on the passenger side. I should have said that I did not own any combination of tools that I could get to the front bolt with. But hopefully nilbmot will have luck with your method.
After 146,000 miles, decided to replace the O2 sensor.
Ford must send their engineers to extensive training sessions on how to make things difficult.
But while I was under the van, took another look at the two exhaust flange bolts, on the passenger side. I should have said that I did not own any combination of tools that I could get to the front bolt with. But hopefully nilbmot will have luck with your method.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 209
From: SoCal
George,
If you jack up the rear of the transmission (still attached to the engine) as far as it will go, it will make some room to slide a long extension up to reach that nut on the passenger side Y pipe. If also helps to loosen the engine mount nuts so the engine can more easily move with the transmission. I did this when I was replacing the rear and oil pan seals on my two vans. I used a 1/2" extension and 1/2" socket because the nuts were particularly stubborn.
If you jack up the rear of the transmission (still attached to the engine) as far as it will go, it will make some room to slide a long extension up to reach that nut on the passenger side Y pipe. If also helps to loosen the engine mount nuts so the engine can more easily move with the transmission. I did this when I was replacing the rear and oil pan seals on my two vans. I used a 1/2" extension and 1/2" socket because the nuts were particularly stubborn.
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