1995 Winstar question
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1995 Winstar question
The headgasket on the family van is broken and the Haynes manual didn't have any information on the '95 3.8; only 3.0 and the '96 and up 3.8 ('95 is the only year they had this particular engine). Is there any other Ford that has the same engine as the '95 Winstar 3.8? I reckon that I can buy the manual for that car and go about my business fixing the engine.
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From: Mitchell, SD
Your '95 3.8L Essex v6 is the same block/internals as the '96+ 3.8L.
As for other vehicles ussing it, they are: Taurus, T-Bird, Continental, Mustang, Cougar, Sable.
It is VERY common for this engine to blow the head gasket. You might want to check to see if yours is included in the head gasket recall a couple years back.
As for other vehicles ussing it, they are: Taurus, T-Bird, Continental, Mustang, Cougar, Sable.
It is VERY common for this engine to blow the head gasket. You might want to check to see if yours is included in the head gasket recall a couple years back.
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From: Oak Harbor, Washington
Ditto what NightHawk & rebocardo said. Head gaskets like crazy if you don't change the coolant on schedule or overheat them. And once they start burning water, hydrolock & bent conn rod -- we've got one in like that right now (Taurus).
Don't overheat them, and change the coolant religiously (but you don't need to wear a funny hat while doing it) and they run very well. Plan on surfacing the heads while they're off.
Regards,
Al S.
Don't overheat them, and change the coolant religiously (but you don't need to wear a funny hat while doing it) and they run very well. Plan on surfacing the heads while they're off.
Regards,
Al S.
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From: Southern California
We did my brother's Taurus's 3.8L a few years back. If you plan on doing only the heads only, that's not too tough.
Pay attention to Rebocardo's one line post
The head bolts MUST be replaced. They are not reusable like other sane engines. Another word of caution: chase the thread on the block, and oil the head bolts well everywhere to make sure the torque is accurate. Otherwise, you might end up with a leaky head again.
By the way, where in CA are you? We may be able to lend you the manual for the 3.8L if you live near the Huntington Beach aerea.
Pay attention to Rebocardo's one line post
The head bolts MUST be replaced. They are not reusable like other sane engines. Another word of caution: chase the thread on the block, and oil the head bolts well everywhere to make sure the torque is accurate. Otherwise, you might end up with a leaky head again.By the way, where in CA are you? We may be able to lend you the manual for the 3.8L if you live near the Huntington Beach aerea.
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Originally Posted by copper_90680
We did my brother's Taurus's 3.8L a few years back. If you plan on doing only the heads only, that's not too tough.
Pay attention to Rebocardo's one line post The head bolts MUST be replaced. They are not reusable like other sane engines. Another word of caution: chase the thread on the block, and oil the head bolts well everywhere to make sure the torque is accurate. Otherwise, you might end up with a leaky head again.
By the way, where in CA are you? We may be able to lend you the manual for the 3.8L if you live near the Huntington Beach aerea.
Pay attention to Rebocardo's one line post
The head bolts MUST be replaced. They are not reusable like other sane engines. Another word of caution: chase the thread on the block, and oil the head bolts well everywhere to make sure the torque is accurate. Otherwise, you might end up with a leaky head again.By the way, where in CA are you? We may be able to lend you the manual for the 3.8L if you live near the Huntington Beach aerea.
This is from right before I removed the front valve cover. As you can see, accessing the rear cylinders will require a monkey the size of my fist.
Here is a view of the rear header from underneath the car. this is the only little window to the headers I can find. It may be possible to remove the header from underneat, but I don't know how I'll get it back on.
This is the radiator. I cannot figure out how to drain it, as the plug is not where it should be in the Mustang repair manual.
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From: Mitchell, SD
I would honestly pick up a Ford CD off of E-bay. They have diagrams of everything, and how to remove and install. $5-$10 well spent.
Sense the 3.8L is a 90 degree engine, you are probably going to need to drop it from the bottom to be able to remove the engine. (Jack up the front end way up, place jack stands, then use the jack to hold the engine/tranny up and unbolt the struts and sub frame bushings, drop carefully not to snag any of the wire harness and fuel lines, ect.)
You might want to try Taurus Car Club of America. They are experts on the 3.8L.
As for draining the radiator. From looking at the pic that black thing in the upper left centerish with "wings." That looks like your drain ****.
Sense the 3.8L is a 90 degree engine, you are probably going to need to drop it from the bottom to be able to remove the engine. (Jack up the front end way up, place jack stands, then use the jack to hold the engine/tranny up and unbolt the struts and sub frame bushings, drop carefully not to snag any of the wire harness and fuel lines, ect.)
You might want to try Taurus Car Club of America. They are experts on the 3.8L.
As for draining the radiator. From looking at the pic that black thing in the upper left centerish with "wings." That looks like your drain ****.
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From: Southern California
Flyingtoaster:
I hate to say this, but to remove the heads you would have to remove all the brackets on the front and rear of the engines. I think the job would be a whole lot easier and less aggrevating if you strip the entire front, rear and top of all things such as alternator, P/S pump, fuel lines, water hoses, injectors, intake manifold, etc.... Hopefully, that would give you some room to access the rear header. Good Lord, and we thought the Aerostar was tough to work on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Those pictures of yours scared me
By the way, is there an access panel inside the van you can open up? If so, maybe that would give you a clear shot of the rear header.
I hate to say this, but to remove the heads you would have to remove all the brackets on the front and rear of the engines. I think the job would be a whole lot easier and less aggrevating if you strip the entire front, rear and top of all things such as alternator, P/S pump, fuel lines, water hoses, injectors, intake manifold, etc.... Hopefully, that would give you some room to access the rear header. Good Lord, and we thought the Aerostar was tough to work on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Those pictures of yours scared me
By the way, is there an access panel inside the van you can open up? If so, maybe that would give you a clear shot of the rear header.
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