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Also for 1949 f1, I would take the opportunity to drill & tap the spindles to relocate the upper zerk while everything is still apart. While it can be done in place, doing it on a workbench makes things much easier. Use the time now to locate a #3 (.2130) drill bit. It took me checking 5 different stores before I came across one.
i called mid fifty yesterday to order the pitman arm for my toyota conversion,while i had them on the phone i talked to them about their disc brake kit.they gave me a great deal on the complete kit.i also stopped by the local nut and bolt store to get the grade 8 stuff for my box and bracket.i picked up the #3 bit's and 1/4-28 tap and a couple 1/4-28 plug's.thank's for the head's up on this goobzilla.let me know how your kit go's. tracy
goobzilla, Do you drill and tap for the zerk fitting without taking anything apart? Gusso
Yes, you can do them with the spindles in place. The king pins are case hardened so you shouldn't be able to hurt them while drilling. I just pulled my spindles off since the truck is still apart.
installed a kit from mid-fifty,I think it was a CPP kit,struggled with the bearing adaptors like everyone else. used alot of emery paper and heat.My kingpins were good so I had to relocate the grease fittings with the spindles assembled.drilling the spindles was difficult,the spindles are soft,but the bit buttoms out on the kingpin which is harder than hell.need a lot of patience,drill bits,a bench grinder,had to make bottom taps and drills.I have a 54 f250 spindles are same as f100
I didn't have to drill and tap mine for zerks. It's been a couple of years but I think all I did was install a zerk with a 90 degree angle. My kit came from ECI but it sure looks the same.
Bobby on one side straight or 90 degree fittings will work but the other side has to be moved. I have heard of people notching the caliper brackets but I did not feel comfortable going that route.if you have a choice,drill the spindle without the kingpin installed,for a good clean hole,good grease flow,I really struggled with the last couple thousands of a inch of metal to get a good clean hole.
I guess I did get them driven home yesterday. It just turns out I'm not as smart as I think am (as usual). The smart guys at work say the adapters are bottomed out on the spindle shoulder. It just looks weird that the adapters don't press flush to the flat face of the spindle. A quick check with a machinist's scale shows that the gaps are identical on both spindles. I think CPP's directions could be a lot better in some respects. Some more pictures would help out a lot.
I don't want to burst your bubble, but there may(or may not) be something else going on here. Is there a radius cut on the adapter that does not match the face of the spindle? As in, is one surface curved and the other square? I only ask because I had a similar problem on another vehicle in a 4x4 front hub where the bearing was as seated as possible but he spindle had a slight radius cut. When I put the rest of the hub together I was not able to put the c clip in the end of the drive shaft. The problem just moved to the outside of the hub. Took me forever to sort out what had happend. At any rate make sure the mating surfaces have exactly the same shape.
Bobby on one side straight or 90 degree fittings will work but the other side has to be moved. I have heard of people notching the caliper brackets but I did not feel comfortable going that route.if you have a choice,drill the spindle without the kingpin installed,for a good clean hole,good grease flow,I really struggled with the last couple thousands of a inch of metal to get a good clean hole.
Thanks,
I'll take a closer look at it the next chance I get
Well, we got a little bit of progress today, but I'm waiting on 2 spindle washers to arrive via carrier pigeon to complete final assembly.
Some advice for others: 1. You have to remove quite a bit of metal from the bearing adapters to get the inner wheel bearing to slip over. A little sanding drum on the Dremel and emery cloth got everything put together nicely.
2. An 1 1/8" socket makes the perfect driver for knocking outer bearing race out of the Volare rotors.
Other than that, things are progressing well. My calipers came in today and they fit the bracket perfectly. I'll load 'em up with pads and sit on the porch waiting for my washers. Then we can finish assembly.
I don't want to jinx it, but I'm actually starting to think it may all fit together.
So to try and wrap this up, I got everything together today:
Everything fit in place, which eliminated all doubt (to me) that my bearing adapters were fully seated. The B-1195 spindle washers that I got on Ebay were a little to big to allow the dust caps to seat in the spindle, but a little customization with a grinder made everything work out.
I guess my only lingering question at this point is how tight to go on the spindle nut. Instructions really don't give any info. How much bearing preload should I put on these wheel bearings? I'm guessing the right answer is "some, but not too much" but I don't have a good feel for it. Any advice?
Great kit, recommend it to anyone. Remember, if you're going with the 5 on 4.5 kit for 48-56 remember the part # for the seals is incorrect. Part # is 9406S not 94065. If there's any questions I'll do my best to answer them.
It is a feel thing. I usually tighten it until it starts loading up the bearing (the rotor will have some drag when you start to rotate it) and back off one cotter pin slot on the nut. Then I make sure I have no play by pulling the rotor back and forth and also make sure the rotor spins freely, if the rotor has "drag", it is too tight, if the rotor moves when you pull or push against it, it is too loose.
look's good goob,mine should be in the first of the week and i can get started on it.i am going to put the front axle and toyota power steering box in this week end.i will wait on the spindle's until i get the bearing adapter's on and grease fitting's moved.you keep up the good work and good picture's too.