leaf hangers are gone!
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Joined: Feb 2005
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leaf hangers are gone!
So I noticed that my rear leaf hangers were completely rusted away while I was under my truck replacing the exhaust today. The drivers side one is broken completely free of the frame, and the only thing that was keeping the leaf spring from flailing around was the fact that the bolt that passes through the hanger was caught on a piece of jagged metal. The passenger side one was nearly rusted through, and looks like it could go at any time. Is this normal for these to rust away so fast? How much does it cost, roughly, to get them replaced? I'm hoping I can take it to a leaf and spring place and they can weld a new one on, cause it looks like a real pain to get to the bolts that hold the hangers on. I take it that it's not safe to drive my truck with the hanger broken like this? This is a 93 standard cab, long bed, 2wd.
edit: refered to the hanger as a shackle
edit: refered to the hanger as a shackle
Last edited by alexschmidt99; Feb 24, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Madison Ohio
There not that bad to replace. Your ford dealer should have them in stock. My 88 F150 Did the same thing your truck did. I think I got everything for under 200 bucks. That was a few years back thoe. I think mine were riveted in. I just cut the old ones off with A/O torch knocked the rest of the rivet out and bolted on with Gr. 8 nuts and bolts. 7 / 16 I think. LOL I could look as I know I bought more then I needed.
Just find a way to hold the body / frame up while you undo one side at a time.
Just find a way to hold the body / frame up while you undo one side at a time.
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leaf hangers are gone
I had that happen on my 93 F150.I was underneath fixing some trailer wiring when i spotted the support was gone and also being held up by the bolt.I called the only Ford dealer that was open that night and as soon as i started to describe what had happened,I was told yep got replacements in stock.Cost me $40 for a pair and they even gave me the bolts to use instead of rivets.Took me several hours to replace but it has been 3 years and they are still in one piece.Replaced both frame brackets and the shackles and the next week went camping .A torch and air chisel along with a jack and jackstands are all I needed.Not a bad job.Good luck.
N2JQI
N2JQI
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I had the same thing happen to me...I was under the truck one day fixing something and happened to look up and see that the thing was rusted out and the leaf spring was against the bed. it cost me like 50 some bucks from the dealership to get a bracket..the parts guy told me that was the 27th bracket the had sold in the last six months so it is very common. i used a cutoff wheel on a grinder to cut the heads of the rivets off and then rebolted the bracket with grade 8 bolts. i think it took me somthing like an hour to do not really a big deal. the hardest thing with the whole process is getting the leaf back down to the bracket.. good luck
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Hmm, haven't looked very closely at my '92, but now I'm wondering if this is my mysterious popping noise. I can't seem to make the noise happen by running through spoon dips or hopping it with the clutch, or anything else I can think of to flex the suspension and frame. At first, I thought it was the plastic cone inside the spare tire mount doing it, and that certainly was making some noise since the factory spare went flat and never touched the ground. Mine's a southern truck, though, and never sees salt. I think it's been snowed on maybe 5 times in it's life. I'm also leaning toward a worn bed bushing or something. REALLY annoying pop, and particularly bad on moderately cool days, say around 55F. It's also still got the OE shocks on the rear, so I may have a valve sticking in one of those. I just hate replacing parts that appear to be working.
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From: Indianapolis
I bought new ones for mine earlier this year, and the cost for bracket, shackle, bolt and nut for both sides was about 180 dollars. Be sure to specify whether or not your truck is 2 or 4 wheel drive, as i believe they take different parts.
And Ohiofordfarm IS right, the grade 8 bolts you'll need to attach the new brackets to the frame are indeed 7/16"
And Ohiofordfarm IS right, the grade 8 bolts you'll need to attach the new brackets to the frame are indeed 7/16"
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Paint,
i had a similar noise with my truck and at first i thought it was ball joints, i checked them and they were fine then i noticed that my hanger was bad so i replaced that and it still made the noise. After looking and looking around i finally determined that the front bushing on the lower control arm or trailing arm was bad. mine did it mostly in reverse when u were on the brakes and teaking the frame but it sounded like metal on metal when i would hit a bump while driving kinda like ball joints do...hope that helps
i had a similar noise with my truck and at first i thought it was ball joints, i checked them and they were fine then i noticed that my hanger was bad so i replaced that and it still made the noise. After looking and looking around i finally determined that the front bushing on the lower control arm or trailing arm was bad. mine did it mostly in reverse when u were on the brakes and teaking the frame but it sounded like metal on metal when i would hit a bump while driving kinda like ball joints do...hope that helps
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From: Madison Ohio
Originally Posted by fbama73
Be sure to specify whether or not your truck is 2 or 4 wheel drive, as i believe they take different parts.
The grade 8 bolts you'll need to attach the new brackets to the frame are indeed 7/16"
The grade 8 bolts you'll need to attach the new brackets to the frame are indeed 7/16"