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Did it only happen at light throttle? Mine happens worse at light throttle and it pretty much gone when coasting and goes away quite a bit when im in the pedal hard. It only their also when the TC is locked up
I replaced it a few weeks back, when the vibration started because that was my first impression on what it could have been. I even shimmed it down and it did help on the start off vibration but not the one at 45-70. Could the driveshaft be out of balance? I do not understand what could cause it to act like this. Another thing i noticed, but it could be in my head, is when i put the truck in gear from a start, and let my foot off the brake from a dead stop the truck seems to be bouncing forward now, instead of taking off smoothly. I do not rememeber if it was always like that or not because i had the take off vibration because of a bad carrier bearing and it was not shimmed down. Any help at all is appreicated since im pretty close to giving up on this vibration and taking it to a shop to try and find it. It has been giving me hell for a month now and i have not found the problem.
Have you used a dial indicator to check runout on driveshaft, drums/rotors, wheels etc? Could the parking brake possibly be hanging up ?
I would support it on stands and run it up to speed and see what happens.
If shaft(s) are good then eliminate things one at a time by first removing wheels. Use lug nuts to keep rotors/drums on tight and then rotors, then drums...etc.
Sometimes too, the first couple of shims on carrier may only change the speed that the vibration occurs if it alters the u-joint operating angles to an out of specification
The more I think about this one the more I think you should get it in the air supported by the axles and have someone slowly run it up to speed while you look. Or say screw it, and just write the check and let someone else have some of the brain damage.
hi heres what you do your u joint is lose in the u joint holders, take and wiggle the drie shaft side to side you will see play, i did mine today and it worked perfect, heres what you do take 2 very skiny washers and put them on the out side of the u joint in the yoke you will see a lip in the yoke that keeps the u joint caps on put washer between the two of them and make shure that it is behind the lip, and weld the washer to the cap (dont heat it up to much just a bead is good. i could only get one skinny washer in mine but it took all the vibration away drove it 500 miles today and no vibration, you dont have to but i also welded the washer to the hold downs with a little bead, and also shimed my drive shaft 3/4 of an inch and its all quite now
See it was spinning in the yoke before, the way i fixed it was using shim stock. I wrapped it around ujoint and it now does not move at all, it was spinning just like you said. I tried everything after i was done to get it to move and it was not moving. Now about 200 miles later, it still shows no sign of moving. I know the u-joint cups are all the way in the u-joint middle as well. I also took the driveshaft out and tried driving with just the front driveshaft and it still shook.
only when the TC locks up at 45. As long as that TC doesnt lock, it doesnt shake. After 65ish the vibration is gone. If i let up, its gone. It only when the motor is luggin down low in the rpms and i give it a little fuel.
only when the TC locks up at 45. As long as that TC doesnt lock, it doesnt shake. After 65ish the vibration is gone. If i let up, its gone. It only when the motor is luggin down low in the rpms and i give it a little fuel.
How about if you give it a lot of fuel? Smooth out?
I'm thinking you have a marginal injector making the drivetrain shake.
Yeah, if i give her over 1/2 pedal she smooths out. I was thinking about the same thing since i had the fuel injectors starved so many times from the gelled fuel.
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