Hey all, I'm new to this forum, I am looking for info on removing the hubcap on a 2002 Ranger. I feel that this is a dumb question, but don't want to break the cap off. I tried lightly prying on the sides of the cap, where the recessed slots are, but it only flexed. Does anyone know if there is a trick to it? PLEASE HELP!!!

 

If it's the same as mine, the easiest way to remove the cap is to put a good-sized screwdriver into the slot on the side of the cap, and twist the screwdriver, the cap should pop right off.

If you've got aluminum rims that you're concerned about scratching, you could wrap the screwdriver in duct tape or something, but I find that if I'm even a little careful, I can minimize the scratching, and keep it all under the cap so I don't worry about it.

 

Thanks John! I was trying to use a screwdriver, which didn't work too well. They were stuck pretty good, I ended up using a 30" pry bar and they finally popped off. I was just worried about breaking or damaging something. Thanks again!!!

 

Rub a little moly grease on the hub caps spring tabs, where they make contact with the wheel & that should prevent them from rusting to the wheel & be easier to remove the next time!!!!

In the past, I too have had to use a pry bar on occasion to remove a stubborn cap, but not since using a thin film of the moly grease!!!!
I even use it on wheel studs, to prevent the nuts from siezing to the studs, which was a real problem for me, when running the interstates, which had been salted!!!!

Just a couple thoughts for consideration.

 

Good idea pawpaw!!! If you have aluminun (alloy) wheels, there is one other place that will seize. That is where the wheel contacts the wheel hubs. The
alloy wheels will corrode, making it near to impossible to remove the wheel.
So, make sure to use some grease on the wheel hubs.

 

If you lube the threads for the wheel lug nuts, doesn't that affect the required lug nut torque? Maybe not a big deal, but I understood there was a difference in dry vs lubed thread torque specs...

 

Good point agryphon, I've heard those concerns expressed & considered them myself, so I allowed for that when torquing up the lug nuts. I usually torque at the min or mid spec range, like we're supposed to do, when lubing spark plug threads with antizieze compound.

Over the years though I've not had any lug nuts work loose, but then I don't off road, or drive really aggressively either, where the wheel & lugs would be worked really hard.

I do drive & tow in the mountains with the Ranger, but so far haven't had any loosen up on me.

So, if any of you do try lightly lubing the threads & drive hard, just re-check the lug nut torque, until you feel comfortable they aren't loosening up.

I like Bobs idea about greasing the wheel center, which I also do on my steel wheels & steel wheel face where it contacts the brake drum on the back side of the wheel, which I've considered doing, but not yet done.

I don't have alloy wheels on my Ranger, but those that do, would have two dissimilar metals in contact with each other, thus a good opportunity for corrosion to set in, especially on salted roads, or if you live along the ocean & get salt spray!!!!

Just be careful & don't get crazy & use too much grease, such that it'll sling off, get on a rotor's surface & cause braking problems, a thin film is all thats needed!!!!!

I do have alloy wheels on my 94 Taurus, I have always had the lug threads lubed & over the past 12 years never had a lug nut loosen up, or a alloy wheel sieze & be difficult to remove.
But then this car rarely gets driven in the snow, on salted roads, or along the ocean, where it would be exposed to salt spray, all of which would hasten corrosion problems.