Help for '04 SD U-joint replacement
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 8
From: Over Yonder, MN
Wow Trigger, your fast. Here ya go mikemacj.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
Be sure to click on the blue links for some good pictures.
Have a look at the first post in here when you get a chance, it’s crammed full of good stuff.
Welcome to FTE.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
Be sure to click on the blue links for some good pictures.
Have a look at the first post in here when you get a chance, it’s crammed full of good stuff.
Welcome to FTE.
Last edited by screwy; Feb 20, 2007 at 07:57 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,117
Likes: 8
From: Over Yonder, MN
I modified Racerguys post for you, hope he doesn’t mind. Make sure you have everything you need before you start. I highly recommend renting a U-joint/Ball joint press (Big C-clamp), it’ll make things so much easier. Hope this helps ya and fills in the blanks.
1) Raise the front of the truck off the ground and support it safely either on a hoist or with a floor jack and proper jack stands. Don't use concrete blocks, pieces of old wood etc. Having the truck fall on you will ruin your day
2) Remove the front driver wheel.
3) Pry the caliper away from the caliper mount to compress the pistons in the caliper. Remove the bolts that hold the caliper mount to the steering knuckle and set the caliper and mount on top of the spring . Don't let the caliper hang by the hose.
4) Remove the brake rotor . It may take some persuasion.
5) Remove the outer hub by squeezing the retaining ring and then pulling the hub out. Sometimes it will take a bit of persuasion with a soft faced hammer to remove it.
6) Remove the snap ring and thrust washers from the axle.
7) Remove the 4 nuts that attach the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle and remove it. There are a few ways to remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly. You might try using a long punch and hitting the studs from behind (make sure you have new studs first), you might be able to pound a thin chisel in between the assembly and the knuckle to break it free, you might be able to use a 3 jaw puller pushing against the axle or you can reinstall the wheel and hit the back of the tire with a sledge hammer. It can be pretty hard to remove but it will come off.
8) Now that you've got the wheel bearing/hub assembly off you'll see the axle needle bearing or spindle bearing as it's sometimes called. If it is dry you will have to replace it and maybe the axle too if there is damage on it. If there is still grease in it you'll want to clean it out and regrease it.
9) Remove the thrust washer from the axle and note which direction it came off. The 4 grooves go to the back.
10) Remove the axle . I usually just pry it out with a pry bar on each side behind the housing dust seal. You can also tap it out from behind.
11) I find it easier to remove the knuckle seal with the axle still hanging in the knuckle. It comes off with a hammer and chisel or punch.
12) Now you can clean up the axle and closely check the U-joint to make sure it moves freely and doesn't bind or feel loose. Also examine the axle for any unusual wear etc.
13) Remove the 4 snap rings on each side of the U-joint.
14) You may want to check your local parts store for a U-joint press (basically a fancy C-clamp). If you can’t find such a thing, gather up a few sockets, one slightly larger then the bearing cup, and one slightly smaller. (Warning: this can be very dangerous if something slips out of place, please use proper percussions if you must use this method. Eye protection is a must) Use a vice and place the small socket on one of the bearing cups and the larger one on the other end so the opposite cup can slide into the socket when you compress the vice. Repeat this system to remove the other 3 cups from the spider.
15) Take this opportunity to clean the yokes.
16) Prepare the new joint by carefully removing the cups and placing the spider between the yoke. If you’re using the socket method use 2 slightly smaller sockets to press the new cups into place. Be sure to check that the bearing needles are lined up against the outer walls in the cup before pressing them on. Repeat for the next 3 cups and install the new snap rings.
17) Next, install the new knuckle seal onto the axle. You'll need the special driver made for doing that or some people have made drivers out of PVC pipe. The seal has to bottom out on the axle.
18) Install a new dust seal on the axle. It usually just pushes on by hand but you may have to tap on it a bit.
19) Lube the outer sealing surface of the knuckle seal with good quailty wheel bearing grease or silicone dielectric grease and install the axle. The same tool that was used for installing the seal onto the axle gets used to install the axle into the steering knuckle. The axle can't go in too far so don't worry about the seal pushing out the back or anything. The driver pushes the axle in to the correct depth. Lightly grease the thrust washer and install in onto the axle with the 4 grooves to the back.
20) Clean and lube the needle bearing with good quality wheel bearing grease. The bearing needs to be packed with the grease. Force the grease in with your fingers until no more will go in. Replace the yellow O-ring on the wheel bearing/hub assembly. Make sure the 4 studs are in good shape and clean.
Install the wheel bearing/hub assembly into the knuckle and tighten the 4 nuts to 135 ft.lb.
21) Lightly grease the outer thrust washers and install in the order shown and then the snap ring to hold it all together. You may have to pry the axle out a bit to install the snap ring.
22) Replace the O-ring on the outer hub and install the hub.
23) Install the brake rotor . I use 1 nut to hold the rotor on and tight while I install the caliper.
24) Install the caliper and mount.
The wheel nuts get torqued to 140-150 ft.lb.
Double check for any loose bolts, missing cotter pins etc.
Check the oil level in the front axle in case any ran out of the tubes while it was apart.
Lower the truck down to the ground again.
Pump up the brakes a few times before you take off.
Drive slowly to make sure that everything feels ok. Check to make sure the 4x4 works too. After a short test drive recheck for anything loose and check the wheel nuts again
1) Raise the front of the truck off the ground and support it safely either on a hoist or with a floor jack and proper jack stands. Don't use concrete blocks, pieces of old wood etc. Having the truck fall on you will ruin your day
2) Remove the front driver wheel.
3) Pry the caliper away from the caliper mount to compress the pistons in the caliper. Remove the bolts that hold the caliper mount to the steering knuckle and set the caliper and mount on top of the spring . Don't let the caliper hang by the hose.
4) Remove the brake rotor . It may take some persuasion.
5) Remove the outer hub by squeezing the retaining ring and then pulling the hub out. Sometimes it will take a bit of persuasion with a soft faced hammer to remove it.
6) Remove the snap ring and thrust washers from the axle.
7) Remove the 4 nuts that attach the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle and remove it. There are a few ways to remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly. You might try using a long punch and hitting the studs from behind (make sure you have new studs first), you might be able to pound a thin chisel in between the assembly and the knuckle to break it free, you might be able to use a 3 jaw puller pushing against the axle or you can reinstall the wheel and hit the back of the tire with a sledge hammer. It can be pretty hard to remove but it will come off.
8) Now that you've got the wheel bearing/hub assembly off you'll see the axle needle bearing or spindle bearing as it's sometimes called. If it is dry you will have to replace it and maybe the axle too if there is damage on it. If there is still grease in it you'll want to clean it out and regrease it.
9) Remove the thrust washer from the axle and note which direction it came off. The 4 grooves go to the back.
10) Remove the axle . I usually just pry it out with a pry bar on each side behind the housing dust seal. You can also tap it out from behind.
11) I find it easier to remove the knuckle seal with the axle still hanging in the knuckle. It comes off with a hammer and chisel or punch.
12) Now you can clean up the axle and closely check the U-joint to make sure it moves freely and doesn't bind or feel loose. Also examine the axle for any unusual wear etc.
13) Remove the 4 snap rings on each side of the U-joint.
14) You may want to check your local parts store for a U-joint press (basically a fancy C-clamp). If you can’t find such a thing, gather up a few sockets, one slightly larger then the bearing cup, and one slightly smaller. (Warning: this can be very dangerous if something slips out of place, please use proper percussions if you must use this method. Eye protection is a must) Use a vice and place the small socket on one of the bearing cups and the larger one on the other end so the opposite cup can slide into the socket when you compress the vice. Repeat this system to remove the other 3 cups from the spider.
15) Take this opportunity to clean the yokes.
16) Prepare the new joint by carefully removing the cups and placing the spider between the yoke. If you’re using the socket method use 2 slightly smaller sockets to press the new cups into place. Be sure to check that the bearing needles are lined up against the outer walls in the cup before pressing them on. Repeat for the next 3 cups and install the new snap rings.
17) Next, install the new knuckle seal onto the axle. You'll need the special driver made for doing that or some people have made drivers out of PVC pipe. The seal has to bottom out on the axle.
18) Install a new dust seal on the axle. It usually just pushes on by hand but you may have to tap on it a bit.
19) Lube the outer sealing surface of the knuckle seal with good quailty wheel bearing grease or silicone dielectric grease and install the axle. The same tool that was used for installing the seal onto the axle gets used to install the axle into the steering knuckle. The axle can't go in too far so don't worry about the seal pushing out the back or anything. The driver pushes the axle in to the correct depth. Lightly grease the thrust washer and install in onto the axle with the 4 grooves to the back.
20) Clean and lube the needle bearing with good quality wheel bearing grease. The bearing needs to be packed with the grease. Force the grease in with your fingers until no more will go in. Replace the yellow O-ring on the wheel bearing/hub assembly. Make sure the 4 studs are in good shape and clean.
Install the wheel bearing/hub assembly into the knuckle and tighten the 4 nuts to 135 ft.lb.
21) Lightly grease the outer thrust washers and install in the order shown and then the snap ring to hold it all together. You may have to pry the axle out a bit to install the snap ring.
22) Replace the O-ring on the outer hub and install the hub.
23) Install the brake rotor . I use 1 nut to hold the rotor on and tight while I install the caliper.
24) Install the caliper and mount.
The wheel nuts get torqued to 140-150 ft.lb.
Double check for any loose bolts, missing cotter pins etc.
Check the oil level in the front axle in case any ran out of the tubes while it was apart.
Lower the truck down to the ground again.
Pump up the brakes a few times before you take off.
Drive slowly to make sure that everything feels ok. Check to make sure the 4x4 works too. After a short test drive recheck for anything loose and check the wheel nuts again
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