240 or 300 ??
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240 or 300 ??
I recently picked up a 82 F-250 4X4 with an inline 6. I've had many 300's but never a 240. How do you tell them apart? Casting numbers/code?? This engine does not seem to pull as well as it should, but I will have to admit, I have not had time to replace the broken intake manifold and the exhaust is cut off about 3 feet from the exhaust manifold, the carb has no choke, and the chrome open element aircleaner meant at least one stop on the way home with Carburator iceing. The previous owner wasted a can of Ford Blue Spray paint trying to hide the grease I think, or maybe he was trying to fix the oil leaks, I'm not sure. The pretty blue was not a selling point I assured him. The lack of ANY emisions equipment on the truck spells $$$ before I can get it PA Inspected. So, before I start looking for individual parts for the emissions, I'ld like to be sure this is a 300, or I'll start looking for a complete 300 with all the right equipment. Therefor, back to the original question, how to tell which is which! Any help would be appreciated!
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Ford stopped making the 240 in '74, so its very unlikely that you have one. Check the casting number, though if you have any doubts, measure the stroke. The blocks are identical, though some of the earlier ('60s) 240 blocks had passenger car casting numbers (had a number along the lines of C#AE-####, instead of C#TE-####).
Edwin
Edwin
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by arctic y block
I got what I thought was a 240 on my saw mill. And two 300's close by to look at. And the one on the mill looks definitely smaller. What the heck do I have?
240 Engine
Crankshaft is stamped: ILA
Vibration Damper is marked: C5TE-F / C5TE-J / C8TE-A
--------------------------------------------------------------
300 Engine
Crankshaft is marked: INA
Vibration Damper is marked: C8TE-C
All the casting numbers I could find listed in parts books (none listed for block/heads).
Last edited by NumberDummy; Feb 19, 2007 at 07:57 AM.
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
I guess with it out of the truck and mounted in a carriage it just looks smaller. Thanks Bill. I will check the numbers on the balancer.
Will the 300 intake fit the 240? as mine is broke.
Will the 300 intake fit the 240? as mine is broke.
Post Fiend
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
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Thank You!
Thank you for the info! I'll check out the numbers asap. I have fairly good resources for identifying Ford Car parts 1964 - 1972 from a CD, but not one for the trucks.
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as i am told, if the casting on the block says T (as in truck), it is definitely a 300 and NOT a 240. if the casting says A (as in automobile), it could be either one.
the stroke is the only difference, but there are some associated internal parts that go along with that issue. obviously, the crank and rods, and i think maybe the pushrods, but i'm not sure about that.
if the casting says A, pull a spark plug and measure the depth (use a piece of wire, get the piston to bottom of power stroke) of the uncertain engine cylinder against a known 300. the 240 will be noticeably shorter.
the stroke is the only difference, but there are some associated internal parts that go along with that issue. obviously, the crank and rods, and i think maybe the pushrods, but i'm not sure about that.
if the casting says A, pull a spark plug and measure the depth (use a piece of wire, get the piston to bottom of power stroke) of the uncertain engine cylinder against a known 300. the 240 will be noticeably shorter.
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The differences between the 240 & 300 are mainly the internal rotating componants - the crank, rods & pistons. The heads have slightly smaller combustion chambers & most 240s had a crank pully with 2 grooves. Many industrial 300s had (I've got a picture of a 300 in an '85 aircraft tug) 2-groove pullys, so don't use this as a spotting feature. These are the ONLY differences (that I know of) between the motors. Everything else - cams, distributors, pushrods, lifters, intake/exhaust, etc. interchanges. In fact, by using 300 internals, you get a high compression 300. So, if you want to know for sure, measure the stroke of the motor. Like chico71f100 suggested, an easy way to do this is to put a small rod/wire down a spark plug hole & turn the engine over. 240s have just over a 3" stroke & 300s have aproximately a 4" stroke.
Edwin
Edwin
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yes indeedy, the 240 head is a dandy way to get a high compression head for your 300, cheap. you can also use the tappets from a 250 chevrolet for additional oomph.
now that i've had a night to think about it, it seems like the pistons sit a little differently as to the wrist pins. you're right, pushrods should be the same. connecting rods are not, though.
now that i've had a night to think about it, it seems like the pistons sit a little differently as to the wrist pins. you're right, pushrods should be the same. connecting rods are not, though.
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Originally Posted by chico71f100
as i am told, if the casting on the block says T (as in truck), it is definitely a 300 and NOT a 240. if the casting says A (as in automobile), it could be either one.
300's were only offered in trucks, but 240's were in both cars and trucks.
Post Fiend
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
As i have a 300 rebuilt but busted inside and over heats. A 240 on the saw mill about ta die. This could make for a fine power plant. And I already have all the parts if I understand this thread correctly.
Either that or a V8 GMC diesel out of a Blazer That runs well but the body is rust.
Either that or a V8 GMC diesel out of a Blazer That runs well but the body is rust.
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chico71f100, I think that you're right about the wrist pins being different. Up to '67, 240/300 wrist pins are the same as the 351. After that the 300 has larger pins. Not that big of a deal as most machine shops can install bushings.
Edwin
Edwin