Looking to replace my old Stihl saw with a new one that has a longer bar. Stopped at a Stihl dealer and he sells the homeowner and mid-range saws. He said he didn't sell any pro models because they are risky in the hands of an amateur woodcutter. The homeowner models are lower displacement engines, but the other two grades are similar in displacement and bar length. Anyone have any experience with this? What model Stihl do you run? My old Stihl has cut for 15 years and never had to go to the shop.Thanks for your help!

 

I've got an O28 Stihl, with a 18 inche bar that is about fifteen years old as well. Great saw, I've never had any trouble at all with it.........

 

I have a Stihl 031AV, must be about 30+ years old. (My Dad got it new) I had it changed over to elect. ignition about a year or so a go. Put a new 18" chain & bar on as well. Saw has lots of power, however the clutch maybe going. Had to cut a 100' tree that hit the house in the Big Blow. Engine runs fine, but sometimes the chain just stops under med load....

 

problem solved:

Buy a Husqie!

Seriously, I would simply consider how often you use it. If you heat your house with wood and are cutting for lengthy periods of time, I'd pay for a professional grade model of saw. If you are only occasionally pruning some limbs or felling a nuisance tree, the lighter duty should be more than enough.

I am fairly certain that the only major difference between a professional model vs. a homeowner model is longer bar length/design and chain tooth style. As far as I know, all saws in current production will have a chain brake to stop the chain instantly in the event of a kickback, but some bar designs and chain tooth configurations are more aggressive and thus more prone to kickback.
If you cut a lot of wood, a more powerful saw will lessen fatigue and allow you to get through the job faster than an underpowered homeowner saw.

Always wear gloves, eye, and hearing protection as a minimum. I strongly suggest you purchase a set of chaps and a combo hard-hat/face shield as well if you are cutting large quantities of wood. Keep your chain sharp so the saw can do the work so you don't have to force it to cut.

Hope this helps. I am not an "expert", just a guy who hasn't bought heating oil for his house for over 10 years since installing the wood stove!

 

When i first moved to the farm I purchased a Stihl 028. I loved it so I bought another one when I got a discount coupon in the mail from Stihl.

I heat my old farm house with wood and I am in the process of building a barn with my own trees (with a bandsaw mill).
Although an 028 may not be the "perfect" tool, I find it to be more then up to the challenge.

 

go to www.npec.com they will tell everything you what to know.

 

the differance is that the professional grade is field repairable (remove cylinder and piston and replace) the lower model requires removing more covers to repair, the highger model is for loggers or professional wood cutters who need to keep going to make money.

 

I have a 310 with a 20" bar and it has a ton of power. I just bought a 170 with a 14" bar and that little saw is awesome. The 170 was bought mainly for weight savings over the 310 for cutting small stuff, brush and limbs.

Toyman

 

Way back (probably at least 35 years ago, now) my grandfather bought a "professional" model Husqvarna. He regretted choosing the pro model for most of the 30 years he used the saw, though, because it didn't have a chain brake.

I doubt anyone builds saws without chain brakes anymore, but I suppose it's possible that pro models still have fewer safety features. I'd want to find out before I made my choice.

 

> He said he didn't sell any pro models because they are risky in the hands
> of an amateur woodcutter.

He does not sell them because noone buys them except professionals that can justify the $500-$1000 price tag. So, to stock a $1000 saw for a year if you only sell one or two does not make sense.

The pro saws are designed to be used every day 4+ hours a day, the others are not. They generally come with more aggressive chain, wider bars, more weight, and have higher horsepower engines. Plus, the chain bars mount different and the chain are higher gauge (.063 and 3/8 high profile vs. .043 or .050 and .325 and low profile) and the pros come with better anti-vib systems. Some things such as heated handles and heated carbs are not found in the lower end saws at all.

What size bar do you need, for what, and how much do you want to spend?

I run both brands. In the lower end I think Stihl is best, on the higher end the Husky. Which pretty much reflects what I own.

 

I run an 066 Stihl for the most part. But I have been around logging all my life. I Would recomend an O42 or O44 for a fire wood saw.
That with a 32 inch bar so ya ain't bending over so much.

 

I bought a MS440 over a year ago. We also heat primarily with wood so the saw has more than paid for itself. I replaced a 042AV after it had a crack in the housing. I got that saw 20 years ago for five bucks from a garage sale. I'll always buy a Stihl as long as the quality stays the same.

 

I currently have a 029 Farm Boss with a 20" bar, a do it all saw if there ever was one. I added a 044 with a 30" bar just so it was easier to cut the big stuff. The 029 would do it but the 44 does it so much easier. For limbing and getting the brush out of the way I just bought a 180. Sure is a lot easier to get the small stuff removed with it instead of using the big saws.

If you regularly use a saw and respect it, you would have no trouble with a bigger saw. Like everything else though there is a adjustment period where you take it easy until you are comfortable with it and how it cuts. A bigger saw will also give you a workout depending on how you carry it and use it.

 

Sounds like the dealer just told you something as an excuse for not having the top saws, "pro models too dangerious: makes no logic ,All saws are dangerious If a "pro saw" is too dangerious every saw is too dangerious,like saying Its ok to shoot someone with a 9m, but a 357 is too dangerious.see my point.The pro stuff is mainly just made better to last longer thats all

 

STIHL? What do they make?





(click for bigger images)

-Matt