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I just bought an MS250 and think it is slightly underpower. It has a 16" bar on it but can be upgraded to 18"...don't think so. It barely has ~5hrs on it so I'm hopeful that it'll improve once it's broken in. I heat my house with wood and this saw replaced my OLD Poulan that started/run great, but the clutch is shot and I can't find parts for it anymore.
I'm gettting a pole saw this spring. The neighbor's 85' pine overhangs my driveway and I want to limb it up high enough on my side so that when it goes, there is no question it will miss my house!
I saw where most chainsaw accidents that result in death are from "kick backs" My liitle stihl has a chain break and the new stihl I plan to get will have one. I looked at them today.Only thing I can say negative about them is the cost of repair parts. My 010 model had the coil go bad and a new one cost over 100bucks....I can replace the saw for less than 200
Last edited by thefarelaneman; Feb 22, 2007 at 11:23 PM.
> If a "pro saw" is too dangerious every saw is too dangerious
If I had started with my Husky 3120 instead of my Poulan Wildthing I probably would have injuried or killed myself. It is dangerous, especially when dropping a tree because there is no way to hold onto the saw with a kickback, clutch brake or not, because your hands are out of position. The thing will cut you in 1/2 before you even realize it if it pushes back in the cut.
The chain and bars on the pro models are dangerous to use, much more then the lower end models. The dealer was correct on them being dangerous, just probably not 100% truthful on why he does not stock them.
fwiw: I rather be shot in the leg with a BB gun or .22 then a 12 gauge with 00 shot or a sabot. My odds of surviving would be much greater.
Well I live back in the woods of Southern Virginia...and I had a poulan..little fart can saw...$150 when new... It wore out more parts than I could count...I guess it would be good for a city slicker!!
I just bought my Stihl MS 290..I was going to the 310..But I got a very good deal and bar and chain upgrade on the MS290.. 20" heavy Bar and a Carbide tip Chain...This dude will flat *** cut some wood!!
I had a kid who worked for the local Fire Department , hit one of my big oak tree's out front..about 70' tall and a good 50' wide.. My Cuz and I with 2 MS 290's and a day til the sun went down..and a log splitter..made about 7 cords of wood out of it!! I havent used the Central heat at all this year..Just burning the semi green wood!!
Anyway... I got the MS290 and 2 bars 2 chains and the carry case for $300 out the door!! JMO..
So far the best one I've located is a Stihl MS310 with 18" bar for $389...1 chain/no case. The dealer said that is $40 off the regular price. Sounds like I need to keep looking. Was your saw from a regular Stihl dealer? Thanks for your reply!
Yeah Jimmy sure was.....I think the deal now is a bar and chain upgrade if they keep the one it comes with stock..for $15 and you have to tell the dealer to fill out the Stihl form..and your Case comes in the mail Via USPS...
But the MS310 is what I really wanted...I wasnt sure the 290 would do the job..But with the bar and chain upgrade, I had no problems with it...
I bought mine here in Virginia at Southern States Farm Supply..there real good to us Rednecks!! LOL..
I was told by the stihl dealer when I bought a pro trimmer last year the main differance in the pro and occasional use one was the clutch . He said a pro trimmer used all day long wouldnt over heat the clutch like the cheaper one would. I guess with chain saws alot more things have to be considered. A new user shouldnt use a heavy powerful saw. The 2 things I respect the most are #1 a loaded gun, #2 a chain saw,
Guys, your discussion was a big help in making my decision. Couldn't travel today due to blizzard in midwest...so went in to local Stihl dealer and bought a MS310 with a 20" bar. I checked about half a dozen Stihl dealers across 3 states and they all priced it at $400.
I gave serious though to a Husqvarna 455 Rancher - they are in about every store. Our local farm store had them at $370, but on eBay right now you can get NIB 455 Rancher's for as low as $300 BIN. I got a feeling that Husqvarna is going the way of McCollough - building a cheaper saw and selling them every where.
The ice has brought down several trees, so I'll give it a roadtest, if the wind ever drops under 40 MPH.Thanks for your help!
I was told by the stihl dealer when I bought a pro trimmer last year the main differance in the pro and occasional use one was the clutch . He said a pro trimmer used all day long wouldnt over heat the clutch like the cheaper one would. I guess with chain saws alot more things have to be considered. A new user shouldnt use a heavy powerful saw. The 2 things I respect the most are #1 a loaded gun, #2 a chain saw,
the differance is that the professional grade is field repairable (remove cylinder and piston and replace) the lower model requires removing more covers to repair, the highger model is for loggers or professional wood cutters who need to keep going to make money.
Who would have thought I would find chain saw help on this forum. Have used this forum many times for husband's F150 and you guys are great. I am posting this for him so bear with me. He has new Stihl but wants to fix his old 031AV. Replaced spark plug and did other mtce on it and it almost starts but won't. To me its like a car that won't turn over but almost does. It fired up once but quit soon. He must have pulled the cord 100 times. It always sounds like it is going to start (like a lawnmower sounds). He wants to get inside the left side and took out all the screws he could find but there is still something keeping him from getting the cover off. I found a manual on line but its only the instruction manual and w/o buying a full service manual he is stuck. We have a Stihl dealer/service in our Ace Hardware but he really wants to try this himself first since its an older saw and does not want to pay big money to have it looked at. He fixes his own nail guns, compressors, generators and Ford Truck so he is so frustrated and of course so am I. Any help on getting the cover off would be appreciated.
First, make sure you have spark. Most chainsaws, especially much older ones, do not fair well with the alcohol added to gas. So, replace all the fuel lines (in tank), the gas filter, and the line to the carb vent. Check the screen for the muffler and make sure it is not carboned up. If you have a compression relief valve, make sure it is not carboned up too.
I bought a 290 Farm Boss and had a 20" bar and 325 chain put on and it cuts ok for me, but it's on it's third fuel line. First one lasted a year second one 3 yrs. Bought next one in 07. Other than that it starts and runs good. I head with wood most of the time. Nov-Mar. Got a case,hat and extra chain for about $350.
Been beating up an .028 for the past 11 yrs. and thought it finally bit the dust. Last task it went thru was taking out a hugh oak, to include using to assist in removing the stump, dirt, rocks, and that kinda thing. Went to Stilh repair shop to purchase another but decided to check and see if it could be repaired, came to $38 for it's first tune up. Got so excited decided to treat it to a new bar.
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