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Front end shudder when braking

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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #1  
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Front end shudder when braking

I have a 1999 F-150 4x4 that has a wicked front end vibration when braking. I had the rotors turned by dealer and problem was not solved. Later I replaced the front rotors and this also did not help. I decided to turn off the ABS by removing the fuse and as before did not fix. Replaced the rotors again and once again no help. The vibration is not consistent. Sometimes when braking it is not that bad other times you would think the front end is going to fall off. Has anyone had this problem and if so what fix worked. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Question 1993 Van E-350 Front wheel vibr. when braking over long time

I have also problems with front end vibrations spesially when driving down montains and braking over long time in downhills that is a mile long.
In the beginning of the braking it`s not so bad, but after a while when the brakes are hot the front wheels starts to viberate heavely shaking the hole front end of the van. I think it vibrates worst on the right side wheel.
I changed the upper and lower ball joints two yaers ago together with brake pads , I had then hoped that these vibrations would stop, It become mutch better after replaising the ball joints but they the problem is still there.
Just now I tighten up the right side wheel bearing nut, that bearing had become little loose, that helped a lot. But it`s still there ,when the hill is long and steep , the vibrations comes after a time of braking.
I must rapair this now , as there is also a big matter of safety involved here. I gess I must start from one end by first changing the front rotors and new bearings and brake pads. But there might be some other bushings etc. in the front suspension or some steering tie rods linkage that can be a part of the cause also?
regards Ingar from Norway
 

Last edited by valsvik; Mar 3, 2007 at 07:17 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:53 AM
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brake vibration

Our cars at work had the same problem with braking vibrations. They determined that high speed braking with ceramic pads were warping the rotors. They replaced the rotors and installed semi metallic pads and it seems to have fixed the problem. I'm going to try that with a 2004 Explorer I just bought because it vibrates bad during emergency braking.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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Angry Lousy Braking!

Hi All,

Might as well chime in here:
Have Ranger XLT that had passanger wheel lock up now its on the driver side and it's really noticable when sand is spread on the roads for winter...The Great Northest is where I'm from! This is a real pain in the A--...sometimes you wonder if you going to become still before it's too late!!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcat40cal
They determined that high speed braking with ceramic pads were warping the rotors.
They determined WRONG. This is an age-old problem that is given layman's diagnosis nearly 99.9% of the time.

Rotors do NOT warp, not even from heavy abusive driving. Do you EVER see the guys in the pits on race day complaining about warped rotors? No you don't. Why you might ask, well most of them know better. Not even the most experienced auto mechanics can tell you the true reason your brakes are shuddering. Please read this.

Cliff notes: The shuddering you feel is due to a condition where uneven pad deposits have built up on the surface of the rotor leading to hot-spots, thickness variations and vibrations. The relationship between the materials used to make a brake pad and the metal used to make rotors is VERY important. When you get a bad combination think of it like mixing oil and water, doesn't work so well does it?. The very best way to avoid this shuddering condition is to make sure you do a through job of bedding in the pads after installation. Follow the manufactures recommendations on how they want you to do this.

cank - This is a problem that is much more common in FWD cars since there is A LOT more heat and stress put on the front end, but that doesn't mean it can't happen to these RWD trucks. If the condition only involves the brakes there are 3 possible answers:

1) Live with it
2) Resurface the rotors if this has just started happening and the deposits are not too bad.
3) Replace the rotors & pads, inspect the calipers for proper operation & replace if needed, then follow a proper bedding (break-in) process to help avoid future shudder.

There are a lot of other factors that can "help" create the shudder condition. Some things mentioned above, like ball joints, bearings, calipers, etc.... Anything that creates excess heat &/or vibration can be "helping" to create this. Let us know what happens.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by G2IC_Wraith
They determined WRONG.

Rotors do NOT warp, not even from heavy abusive driving.

I did not know this. So a lot of shops are making lots of money treating a problem that does not exit.

Cliff notes: The shuddering you feel is due to a condition where uneven pad deposits have built up on the surface of the rotor leading to hot-spots, thickness variations and vibrations. The relationship between the materials used to make a brake pad and the metal used to make rotors is VERY important.

Can road conditions - de-icer spray, wet, cold etc aggravate this?

The very best way to avoid this shuddering condition is to make sure you do a through job of bedding in the pads after installation. Follow the manufactures recommendations on how they want you to do this.

I followed closely the bedding in process from the manufacturer for the pads on the truck below and I also have shudder that varies but some time is so violent i think something is going to fall off. Have cleaned the rotors but the issue returns. I also tow a 8000 trailer. It's a real joy when the truck starts bucking with that behind me.


There are a lot of other factors that can "help" create the shudder condition. Some things mentioned above, like ball joints, bearings, calipers, etc....

The right upper and lower ball joints was replaced 36000 miles ago. Left has small amount of play but my local garage says it is fine. rotors, caliper and pads replaced about 18,000 miles ago(2010)

Anything that creates excess heat &/or vibration can be "helping" to create this. .
I'll pull the wheels and clean the rotors one more time. If I get shudder still I have the old rotors cleaned for a test fit. To see if the problems can be confirmed to be brakes or lies elsewhere.

Reg
 
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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What is the preferred method of cleaning/removing the uneven brake pad buildup on rotors?

I have a 2010 F150 4x4 with 45,000 miles and I have been getting intermittent brake shudder for about 10,000 miles or so. It is not bad, just a light vibration when braking but it is random. I wrote it off to brake pad buildup as it seems that when I brake hard, the vibration will go away for a while. I made the guess that the buildup was/is scraped off under heavy braking. I have already checked to verify the pads are not worn out and ready for replacing and I don't have excessive gouging in the rotors.

Would spray brake cleaner with emery cloth do the trick or is there a better way?

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Fine sandpaper. I use crocus cloth, 400+ and have used 220. Brake cleaner is fine. I wipe clean. As for pads 120 grit for deglazing -if needed. You will have to bed the pads in again. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Bedding in is not just to seat the pads but to (properly) deposit brake material onto the surface of the rotor. It is important. Just a fine point.

Reg
 
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:11 PM
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Thanks.

I have read some more and it looks like I may pull the rotors and clean them with 220 grit garnet paper then clean with brake cleaner. Same for pads then go through the "break-in" procedure again.

It's just odd that this comes and goes and is not consistent. Almost like the rotors have a build up then at some point it is scraped off by the pads then builds back up again. Oh well.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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I think it may be a combination of deposits and some runout - rotors and/or hubs. I'm in contact with a Performance Friction tech. I'll post what I find.

Reg
 
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