I have a 1970 F-100 Ranger/302/c-5/3.50 9"/5-lug whls. I read here that I need later I-beams to convert to disc brakes, but also do I need a custom I-beam to lower the front w/out drastic camber issues??

How do I lower the rear? new springs, or is there a cheaper easier way??

I would probably need close to three inches up front and as much or more out back.
I have been building Ford Falcons for 22 years and do 99% of My own mods so don't be afraid of scaring Me off with technical speak.

Thanks in advance,
Alex abgrcng@netzero.net

 

you can do a spring flip fairly easily i believe. i want my truck to go the other direction a little father but i have seen a few places on line that offer the lowering beams. if you want to go extremely low check out tgowers gallery.

 

You could let the air out of the tires.

 

Ya beat me to it!
Now to lower the rear of a 68 CS 2 1/2" without rearching springs or sitting on the flexomatic overload.

 

Or, you can put the rear end housing on top of the springs, and a Mustang II front end, probably a lot lower and a bit more spendy then you want to go, though? With dropped spindles on the MII conversion, the front goes down about 5 1/2 inches....

 

Thank Guys! I would try spring clamps in front just to see what it does,but then the tailgate will be aiming skyward, I hadn't thought of flipping the leaves, would they still function properly in reverse?? I will check that Tgower gallery.
To do It right looks pretty invovled when I crawl under it so it may have to wait. The MII idea doesn't excite Me, never cared for that system even on a Falcon let alone a full size Truck. Lettin the air out of the tires would be OK since they're rotten anyway(grin), Lower rubber and wider wheels are definitely FIRST on the agenda.

Fortunately I do NOT have this flex-o-matic deal, I know about ford-o-matic and cruise-o-matic, but this is a new one on Me, what is it???

Oh Iv'e cut more classics then Iv'e restored, My pride and joy which was My first car of 22 years now is a 631/2 Sprint H.T. 4spd that is now a self-built road-racer, then there is My talent with a sawzall to make a parts-donor dissappear.

Thanks again,
Alex, GGFCA

 

No on flipping the springs! What was posted was to relocate or add spring pads below the axle instead of over the top. This will lower the rear between 6 1/4" and 6 3/8" depending on your spring pack thickness, this on a 3/4 ton
without upsetting the flex-o-matic geometry.

 

my buddy and i did my entire lowering job for about 1000 bucks, that's with the free 1971 lincoln front clip(every component on the front clip had to be replaced, which is where most of the money went.) it was a very involved build, but it rides and handles great, tracks straight down the road. i will answer any and all questions. good luck, tgowers

 

Thank You Tgowers. That sounds better than MII, I assume You spliced the frame(??)

It will be a while before I go that far, but if I choose that route,I will certainly be in contact with You. I appreciate ALL of the emediate input that everyone has provided for "THE NEW GUY"

Alex

 

what i did to my 68 was flip the rear on top of springs and removed the helper spring to get little more drop and i went to the local rod shop and he sold me some mopar spring perches (that weld up to the underside of the rear end) which were about 1'' thick. so all in all i got about 6.5'' drop on rear. you can also purchase the drop shackle which gives 2'' drop and also spring mounts which would give you an additional 2''. i bought the "drop block kit" at the local auto store and did not use the blocks when i lowered. so total i have about $60 in the rear drop. and yes you do have to c-notch the frame...but have yet to do it. the front is where your problem is. you can get no more than a 3'' drop out of a set of i-beams and then you are limited to modifications thereafter. i bought new 6 cyl springs (which there is no difference in the amount of drop when you install these compared to your 8 cyl springs) and cut roughly 2 coils out. this gave about 2'' drop. and i wanted the old rod look so i took the original stealies and got 215/65 tires put on and that gave me about 3'' drop compared to the stock size tires. i kept the big meats in the back and it has just a bit of rake. front cost was about $240 without the front end alignment which you WILL have to do. i went cheap and i'm happy. good luck

 

Thanks custom cabby, You must be slammed pretty low or maybe the two or three inches Im thinkin of isnt quite enough.

I actually came up with a super low budget plan that may still be viable in conjuction with these custom spring mounts and I-beams.
I wonder if anyone has tried this, Out back I figure I can cut out the rivets in the forward spring perch and move it up on the frame, I should get at least two or maybe three inches from this.If that is where the replacement mount goes I may get even more.
Up front I see that I can relocate the I-beam mounting point maybe about an inch higher in the frame(this is not unlike lowering a Falcon) then I could clamp(cringe) the spring and get a few inches w/out destroying the camber. ALL of this could be done for just My labor, but If I can add a drop I-beam and the parts for the rear, that would be fantastic!! I would want I-beams for the later disc-brake system which seams to available at the self serve wrecking yard. The concern that remains is cutting the spring. The falcon spring just comes to a stop on the bottom and fits in the saddle so lopping it off with a cut-off wheel is all it takes, but with a tapered shape on both ends of the Truck spring, I don't know if I can do that on My garrage work-bench, ANY tips on that???
Another question would be , where do I get these dropped I-beams, shackles and spring mounts ???

Thanks for the help!!!

 

http://www.djmsuspension.com/Product...5F100Parts.htm
here is the link to the beams
this place can make a set of springs rather than cutting coils.http://www.coilsprings.com/index.html
I am personally not into lowered trucks but if you are gona do it do it safely.

 

I will contact the link You sent, Thanks much!! As a novice road-racer, I appreciate Your concern for safety. I built My Falcon track-car ground-up in My Home-based race shop as well as it's tow vehicle and trailer so I have no problem excecuting major modifications. I also appreciate Your comment about lowered Trucks, I inherited this one from My father and since I need another Vehicle like a hole in My head, I figure this will be a neat cruiser and just hang on to it to remember My Father by. It will stay two-tone and I will use deep steel wheels painted to match w/baby moons and no trim ring.
The tired 302 will be replaced by the 351w out of My tow vehicle when I install the 408 stroked Windsor in that one. Having never delt w/ twin I-beam, I thought it wise to seak out those who have and see what HAS been done to get an idea and this has paid off well in a short few days. Thanks again!!!

 

if you want to sink the front end a little more ditch the small block and put some fe power down in there.

 

i have heard of moving the perch up and re-welding it but my concern would be making sure that point in the frame were boxed on the inside... not sure but would make sence. the other thing i would consider in relocating the i-beams is the clearance in bottoming the cross member and the amount of travel that would be lossed. an alignment shop told me that he has dropped the front by simply relocating the spring perches up. not sure if he was blowing smoke but worth measuring out to see. good luck