Replacing the headlight switch and found cracked and melted pin slot of the harness connector. What's the fix for this? Total replacement of the harness? Does this involved soldering? Am I cutting and buttsplicing?? Yikes!!!

 

check out www.rjminjectiontech.com he sells headlight harness's or go to a wreckingyard. one from an f150 would work also

 

Thanks Kem.. I was looking at the headlight switch continuity chart and the terminal locations-do those connectors release from the back of the wiring connector-seems as if they are a male/female type connection. This replacement may be as simple as disconnect then connect???

BTW anything recent form GS92?

 

Get a good used plug from other truck The wires will pop out put your wires in new plug. If one of wires is bad just splice and install in new plug. I've had 15 truck of own as well as working on around 20 at any time where I work. I have done this lots of time. $2 buck at wreckers good luck.

 

Are you refering to the switch panel wiring connector inside the truck?

 

Yes inside where switch plugs in run small flat driver in along wires from back side . This will release the wires. practice on replacement plug first. Once you figure out swap 1 wire at time . I put mine in wrong the first time and when you started the truck the running lights can on. Good luck About 20 min after figure out how to remove wires. A peice of tin cut about 1/4 wide works to.

 

Go to your local ford dealer to get the part. The last one I bought was $9.95. Remove the wires from the new connector and replace the connector. Splice wires only if you have to, if you do don't use the butt connectors that come with the new harness. Go to parts house and get heat shrink butt connectors. Then your connection will be less likely to corrode.Use a pocket screwdriver to release the wire locks in the connector. This is a common problem. Does anyone know why this happens though? I've replaced alot of these and usually I end up replacing the floor dimmer switch soon after. The harness melts due to too much current in the main wire but whats causing the overload?

 

I bought the harness switch for 9 dollars off a site--the dealer wants $39.95- what's the deal. Are you saying the 9$ one is junk?

 

No, I'm saying I bought the last one I replaced from Gene Evans ford in Union City for $9.95 and that is how I've fixed most of the ones I've done, just replace the plastic connector, unless you have insulation missing or a melted terminal. Although ford sells the connector w/wires so you can splice. You never want to butcher an electrical harness, ever!!! When people cut and splice here and there on harnesses it only creates future problems. Like I metioned before if you have to- heatshrink butt connector's or solder and heatshrink the joint. Electrical tape is for a quick, non-permanent fix. About the dealer's price- that may be list price, I don't know, but If you can find the one parts man at the dealer who's been there for a long time and knows his stuff, make friends and always use that person when you go there. After a while you build a relationship and you can get factory parts for the nice price. I also recomend the same thing for your local parts house but it's a little tougher since they like to use school kids that don't know what a wrench is. Find the manager who's been there for a while,learn their name and call before you go.90% of the time I use aftermarket parts, the only time I don't is when the part is plugged into the ecm. Your part will work just fine once you install it. Don't forget to do 1 wire at a time so they don't get crossed. Good luck.

 

Okay- dealer prices suk...... I'll release the clips and do one wire at a time