Hey everyone, this new aerostar i purchased last year is finally starting to give me something other than tranny problems. I noticed a slight miss or something and had the plugs & wires replaced. They were unable to do so because they had the wrong plugs, and they said a sensor on the intake was not connected, and they put it back together. when i got the van back the problem got really bad, the van started doing that lurch/surge where just runs rough alternating where it runs okay but with what feels like a noticable miss, and then sometimes it will run okay. A week later they finally got the new plugs in and looked over everything to see if they could figure out was wrong (the CEL was not on, so they didn't try for codes), and when I got it back I didn't dare take it to work, as it started stalling on me when doing the surge bit. This morning I confirmed that the CEL light does not even come on when engine is started (maybe burnt bulb?) and rented a code reader. I ran it quite a few times, with engine off and key on and while running and I kept getting 1132, 0171 and 1035 my repair manual is of no help, and I don't know what to do next except come here begging for help. I spent last night working outside off the back of my pickup in 6 degree weather with 20mph wind and it wasn't very fun. So any help so I can get this white beast back running would be very appreciated. She only has 182,000 miles, so I know she's not dead yet.

 

Since Ford does not have a 1035 code, I'm assuming that's a 0135 code.

With that, all these codes 1132, 0171 and 0135 point to the failure of the O2 sensors. Make sure the things were even plugged in. If they were, then you should replace them. These things usually last only about 60K miles.

 

if you can get it to a local parts store, many will read codes for free...call ahead...write down codes, say thankyou very much but no when they try to push their recommends parts on you and please post the codes here
the 1132 and 1035 are not valid codes and do not help us any.....

if money is an issue, replace only the front O2 sensor in front of CAT converter, rear O2 sensor does not affect air/fuel mix

start with cleaning the IAC, Intake Air Control valve located on the driver side of the throttle body/plenum...2" long silver colored cylinder with wire plug out end....remove and spray with throttle body or carb cleaner, let soak for 5 minutes, shake out and repeat...replace

clean opening and behind plate on front of throttle body with throttle body cleaner...builds up with intake air dirt and oil/combustion gases from PCV

disconnect neg- batt lead for 5 minutes to clear KAM so that the computer learns correct operating parameters, drive 10>20 miles varing speed and acceleration

read codes again

 

Actually 1132 is a valid code.

All OBD-II codes that begin with 0 are universal.

All codes that begin with 1 are specific to the manufacturers, so Ford, Dodge, Honda, Toyota ... would have different 1xxx codes for the same problem.

For the ones listed on this thread:

P1132: Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1

P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1)

 

old age brain fart, forgot to look at my Ford bible

 

Mine is older and louder than yours

 

Does this still mean I should replace the o2 sensors?

 

Yes, it does. At the very least, check to make sure the connectors are plugged in on the sensors. You can try replacing only the front sensor. The rear sensor is there only to check to see if your catalytic converter is working. It's not terribly important as far as engine operation is concerned.

 

TY will attempt this in the morning, hopefully parts are in stock locally.

 

soak spray overnight with PB Blaster or kerosene on a rag rapped around O2 and a BIG pipe wrench will break the will of any rusted in place old O2 sensor

also clean the MAF element with throttle body cleaner...30 minute soak is best then examine with mag. lens for any dirt still on glass element...replace if any chucks are still contaminating MAF

I've had a heavily contaminated MAF from desert dust and PCV not throw a code on OBDII EEC-V but throw the air/fuel mix off both rich and then lean...barely run then fine...very random

search Aero forum for how-to-dos

 

okay i replaced to O2 sensor and it seems a little better, but still runs rough and i got the same codes, until i tried clearing to see if i could get different ones, now it says no faults (may be operator error on this as i am new to using these code readers) Where do I go from here, I sprayed off what I think the MAF was (second device from air filter box?) didn't have a mag glass to inspect it with and was afraid to rub it down, so I just gave it a good rinse. Now about the IAC is that also called a Air Bypass Solenoid valve? (Got one of those weird chilton books) Is there a gasket to worry about? Sorry about all the questions as a live quite a few miles from town and it makes it difficult to get parts if i screw up.


If i hit the gas hard when it is running rough/surging it seems like a choke kicks in and it runs at 1200-1500 rpm for awhile and then runs smooth until it starts messing up again.

could the TPS be involved?

I need a few more sensors and a bigger bottle of aspirin

 

If a TPS goe bad, you typically get a lack of throttle responce. The van would become sluggish, but would run ok. I have experienced this before. The computer did not trigger a code until the sensor went completely bad however. You will often experience "Dead" spots if you tps is bad, points where you can apply slightly more throttle and get not responce to the change.

 

yes, there is a fiber gasket between the IAC and mount, no adhesive or sealer, just dry install

the 96 has advanced PCM powertrain error detection OBDII EEC-V.
codes will ever tell you which cyl's are missing

some troubleshooting/anaylzing first will same you $thousands in unneeded new parts

 

Hi Nightshifter:

Before we go on, I must ask if you replaced both O2 sensors or just one. If you replaced only one, did you replace the one before the catalytic converter or the one after it?

The MAF is the one right on the airbox with a 4-pin connector.

The IAC is located at the Throttle Body, almost opposite the TPS, and it has a two-wire connector on it.

 

just the one before the cat