When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
on top of all this - a deer hits me this morning - she was running full speed and hit my front passenger side fender, and her head wrapped around and killed my lights, busted out my turn signal lens and knocked my headlight out. I have to pry the fender off the hood so i can get it open. I was doing about 30mph at the time. can't win for losing...
on top of all this - a deer hits me this morning - she was running full speed and hit my front passenger side fender, and her head wrapped around and killed my lights, busted out my turn signal lens and knocked my headlight out. I have to pry the fender off the hood so i can get it open. I was doing about 30mph at the time. can't win for losing...
Sorry to hear that. When it rains, it pours!!!
So, what happened to the deer? If a deer does that to my car, I'll eat it.
okay i replaced to O2 sensor and it seems a little better, but still runs rough and i got the same codes, until i tried clearing to see if i could get different ones, now it says no faults (may be operator error on this as i am new to using these code readers) Where do I go from here, I sprayed off what I think the MAF was (second device from air filter box?) didn't have a mag glass to inspect it with and was afraid to rub it down, so I just gave it a good rinse. Now about the IAC is that also called a Air Bypass Solenoid valve? (Got one of those weird chilton books) Is there a gasket to worry about? Sorry about all the questions as a live quite a few miles from town and it makes it difficult to get parts if i screw up.
If i hit the gas hard when it is running rough/surging it seems like a choke kicks in and it runs at 1200-1500 rpm for awhile and then runs smooth until it starts messing up again.
could the TPS be involved?
I need a few more sensors and a bigger bottle of aspirin
After effecting any repair, the trouble codes (DTC's) need to be cleared, If they come back the problem is not fixed. There will also be a Freeze frame data remembered by the ECU. If you have a scan tool it will have a function to access this data. It would be a good idea to record this info as it will be lost when you reset the ECU. This info will tell you what vital engine readings were at the time the code was set by the ECU. Among other things it will tell you the Fuel system status (open or closed loop), calculated load, Engine temp, Fuel trim, engine speed & road speed. If you disconnect the battery during any repair, the ECU will have to re-learn the fuel trim parameters, with possible drivability problems. You may have to drive 10 miles or more in varying traffic conditions for the ECU to optimize engine control once again.
Sorry about your luck with the deer.......
Last edited by Aeroman59; Feb 20, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
Not bad for a homemade joke, huh? Who says only Jay Leno has a sense of humor?
Seriously, I've been following the saga of you Aerostar, and I hope you get her running okay. Working outside, in cold weather, is terrible. I've done it though.
Good luck, and the advice on disconnecting the ground is very good. That has helped in similar repairs to my Aerostar in the past.
got somewhat lucky - got the headlight lit with a new bulb - gonna try to fix the engine problem today if things don't get much worse already as I found out my mother (whom I work for) blew the engine in her crapstar because she let the engine run dry on oil. Which means I get no days off until she gets it fixed or replaced, and she still owes money on it.
Last edited by nightshifter; Feb 21, 2007 at 06:01 AM.
if the miss is spark plug (needs double platinum only).If not you will be replacing them again very soon or wires and not corrected quickly you will get an O2 fault as the sensor is picking up the unburnt fuel in the exhaust.Again proper diagnosis relating to plugs and wires is needed before changing parts. NOTE. some techs will not change the difficult to reach plugs due to the hassle.
this is killing me. i still can't figure out the problem. the plugs & wires are new (motorcraft plat plugs and autozone brand wires) replaced O2 sensor, seemed to help things but it still won't idle right for long. I had the codes pulled again, but they didn't give me the numbers, just that
EGR flow insufficient
System too lean bank1
o2 sensor circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2
insufficient switching o2 bank1 sensor 1
I did pull off the long silver cylinder thing off the intake and cleaned it out with intake cleaner, did not make any difference. I really need to fix this before i just hold the gas pedal down to the floor next time it does it so it'll be permanently fixed with a blown engine.
On top of all this, drivers door handle on the inside broke, and then the window switch quit working for drivers side, so i have to reach out the sliding window behind me to get out (knew these long ape arms would be good for something someday)
Why does it seem that aeros pick a time and just start falling to pieces?
Back to business - do i need to replace the egr (sensor or something?) i remember something about these things getting clogged, where is it located. could the second o2 sensor be causing all this? I just replaced the one before the cat converter.
The egr valve in the aerostar is a robust unit not giving the same problems of sticking etc as other types. I think you need the DPF differential pressure control transducer that monitors the valve. It is a silver metal block unit with hoses attatched. This valve is expoesed to moisture in the exhaust and high temps. I have replaced mine .
this is killing me. i still can't figure out the problem. the plugs & wires are new (motorcraft plat plugs and autozone brand wires) replaced O2 sensor, seemed to help things but it still won't idle right for long. I had the codes pulled again, but they didn't give me the numbers, just that
EGR flow insufficient
System too lean bank1
o2 sensor circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2
insufficient switching o2 bank1 sensor 1
EGR flow insufficient Take of the EGR pipe & valve,(there is also a valve solenoid I believe) clean any carbon from the pipe internals or valve, you likely have a blockage somewhere. System too lean bank 1 If you just replaced this O2 sensor (pre catylist) then you have an air leak somewhere (could be on any intake vacuum line or an intake seal or gasket) or also check your electrical connector. o2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor2 This sensor is your post catylist & will not affect your driveability, but will affect emmisions, it is there to check your converter; if it has failed you get a code. Insufficient switching o2 sensor bank 1 sensor1. This is your pre catylist sensor & it sounds like it is not switching & in this respect is not controlling your fuel mixture. Sounds like it's measuring lean mixture which means, you likely have an air leak or a fuel restriction problem somewhere in the system.
EGR flow insufficient Take of the EGR pipe & valve,(there is also a valve solenoid I believe) clean any carbon from the pipe internals or valve, you likely have a blockage somewhere. System too lean bank 1 If you just replaced this O2 sensor (pre catylist) then you have an air leak somewhere (could be on any intake vacuum line or an intake seal or gasket) or also check your electrical connector. o2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor2 This sensor is your post catylist & will not affect your driveability, but will affect emmisions, it is there to check your converter; if it has failed you get a code. Insufficient switching o2 sensor bank 1 sensor1. This is your pre catylist sensor & it sounds like it is not switching & in this respect is not controlling your fuel mixture. Sounds like it's measuring lean mixture which means, you likely have an air leak or a fuel restriction problem somewhere in the system.
i was getting all the o2 codes before i replaced the o2 sensor, that's why i replaced it, the egr stuff is new though. I'm beginning to wonder if a vacuum line got knocked loose or broken when the plugs & wires were done.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.