muffler delete question
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 679
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From: Mesa, AZ
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-5-lift-2.html
Its called a high angle driveline, its a one piecer, and that "small" piece of metal you are talking about is the shock absorber, similar to the one on the front, but it doesn't have a boot on it.
Its called a high angle driveline, its a one piecer, and that "small" piece of metal you are talking about is the shock absorber, similar to the one on the front, but it doesn't have a boot on it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 3
Here's some info I've posted before:
Originally Posted by ryaneverk2
You don't actually need a bent pipe. You can do like Kris suggested and get a piece of 3.5" flex pipe, OR you can just use a piece of 3.5" straight pipe. The pipe just before the muffler is the "s-pipe".... rotate this 180* so that its outlet is up, not down as it is when going into the muffler. This will bring it just about in-line with the tailpipe, and a straight piece of 3.5" pipe will work fine.
Here's a pic to show you what I mean:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2134...86590301iSCvgI
Back when I got this done, I just called around the nearby muffler shops until I found one that had 3.5" straight pipe and was willing to do the job... they charged $60 and it took them about 20 minutes. They cut the muffler off, rotated the s-pipe and rewelded it, flared the ends of a piece of 3.5" pipe, slipped it on, and welded it up... lined up the tailpipe to the level that looked best to me, and then welded the hangers to the pipe. I would've liked to have done the job myself, but have no welder nor welding skills, and didn't want to just use clamps.
You might even show the shop that picture to show them how simple it is... they might not think to rotate the s-pipe. Or, if doing it yourself... now you'll know how.
PS - one thing just occurred to me: shops you call might tell you that they can't do 3.5" pipe because their bender can't bend pipes that big. Point out to them that no bending is required. All you need is a straight length of 3.5" pipe... and they'll need to flare the ends just a bit so it can slip over the stock pipes.
Here's a pic to show you what I mean:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2134...86590301iSCvgI
Back when I got this done, I just called around the nearby muffler shops until I found one that had 3.5" straight pipe and was willing to do the job... they charged $60 and it took them about 20 minutes. They cut the muffler off, rotated the s-pipe and rewelded it, flared the ends of a piece of 3.5" pipe, slipped it on, and welded it up... lined up the tailpipe to the level that looked best to me, and then welded the hangers to the pipe. I would've liked to have done the job myself, but have no welder nor welding skills, and didn't want to just use clamps.
You might even show the shop that picture to show them how simple it is... they might not think to rotate the s-pipe. Or, if doing it yourself... now you'll know how.
PS - one thing just occurred to me: shops you call might tell you that they can't do 3.5" pipe because their bender can't bend pipes that big. Point out to them that no bending is required. All you need is a straight length of 3.5" pipe... and they'll need to flare the ends just a bit so it can slip over the stock pipes.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Larkspur, CO
The easiest way to do this is to cut out the existing muffler completely, loosen the clamp on the joint in front of where the muffler was, and rotate that curved piece of pipe 180 degrees. It's then a straight shot between the two pipes (and easier than Krenzy's setup I think).
As for the sound, yes, a little more hum in the cab, but man does it sound good outside!
As for the sound, yes, a little more hum in the cab, but man does it sound good outside!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by badger2196
The easiest way to do this is to cut out the existing muffler completely, loosen the clamp on the joint in front of where the muffler was, and rotate that curved piece of pipe 180 degrees. It's then a straight shot between the two pipes (and easier than Krenzy's setup I think).
Originally Posted by from the post above yours
You can do like Kris suggested and get a piece of 3.5" flex pipe, OR you can just use a piece of 3.5" straight pipe. The pipe just before the muffler is the "s-pipe".... rotate this 180* so that its outlet is up, not down as it is when going into the muffler. This will bring it just about in-line with the tailpipe, and a straight piece of 3.5" pipe will work fine.
