Codes and Tach Issues
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: GOING BACK TO TEXAS!!!
Codes and Tach Issues
And here we go with another problem...Check Engine light on and the Tachometer does not work.
KOEO
111--the only good one.
KOER
412
126
121
311
332
The previous owner replaced the EGR valve among other parts just before I bought the new rig. Unfortuately, I did not write the list of stuff replaced down because of screaming kids and wanting to get the heck out of dodge. Here is what I can remember---water pump, thermostat and housing, dist., plugs and wires, and the EGR valve. Gas milage is not off (13 mpg tonight), maybe even a little higher because it sits on 31" tires. The Check Engine light comes on after a load is applied on the engine and it is in gear. Also, the Tach moves for just a second during cranking, but it never climbs to the idle speed and does not work at any point during driving.
And as a final note, the stupid push button 4x4 doesn't work. I can hear something like a relay going off when I push the button, but no action from the transfer case.
Other than that, it's finally nice to look down on other cars instead of looking up to them.
KOEO
111--the only good one.
KOER
412
126
121
311
332
The previous owner replaced the EGR valve among other parts just before I bought the new rig. Unfortuately, I did not write the list of stuff replaced down because of screaming kids and wanting to get the heck out of dodge. Here is what I can remember---water pump, thermostat and housing, dist., plugs and wires, and the EGR valve. Gas milage is not off (13 mpg tonight), maybe even a little higher because it sits on 31" tires. The Check Engine light comes on after a load is applied on the engine and it is in gear. Also, the Tach moves for just a second during cranking, but it never climbs to the idle speed and does not work at any point during driving.
And as a final note, the stupid push button 4x4 doesn't work. I can hear something like a relay going off when I push the button, but no action from the transfer case.
Other than that, it's finally nice to look down on other cars instead of looking up to them.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Coweta,GA, GO DAWGS!!!!!!
412- Unable to control rpm during high-rpm self test
126-MAP/BARO sensor voltage higher than expected
121-TP sensor voltage out of range or TP sensor voltage not consistent w/air meter input( '93 model and up)
311-Thermactor air system inoperative
332-EGR valve opening not detected
That's alot of codes man, good luck.
126-MAP/BARO sensor voltage higher than expected
121-TP sensor voltage out of range or TP sensor voltage not consistent w/air meter input( '93 model and up)
311-Thermactor air system inoperative
332-EGR valve opening not detected
That's alot of codes man, good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
Likes: 3
From: Derbyshire, UK.
many of those could be due to vaccum leaks - MAP, Thermactor and EGR certainly.
Hi RPM issues could be due to direct IAC - give it a good clean, of just replace it if original.
Check all your vacuum lines from the top of the plenum, get a vaccum tester (ebay) and chase each line. There is a sticker on the underside of the hood with a diagram of where they all go.
TP issue could be due to worn sensor someone has messed with the idle screw on the throttle body - which ain't an idle screw.
Hi RPM issues could be due to direct IAC - give it a good clean, of just replace it if original.
Check all your vacuum lines from the top of the plenum, get a vaccum tester (ebay) and chase each line. There is a sticker on the underside of the hood with a diagram of where they all go.
TP issue could be due to worn sensor someone has messed with the idle screw on the throttle body - which ain't an idle screw.
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Senior User
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From: GOING BACK TO TEXAS!!!
Thanks...
I posted this when the "Search the Forum" Button was not working...it was giving me an error page. I'm sorry for the repeat thread.
Now I've only got two codes.
311 and 332. I'm almost positive that they are vaccum line related. Does anyone know a good replacement for all of the small plastic (color coded) vaccum lines that go everywhere...most of mine are cracked. The rubber lines are not in the best of shape either, but I'm going to replace those this weekend.
Also, after using the search button, I found that the electronic motor on the t-case is most likely my problem. I'll be diving into that problem soon (no snow or rain forcasted this week).
The only problem that I have that still confuses me is the tachometer. Dang thing will not work, and both wires going into the coil (pass side underneath yellow with faded tracer) good and tight. I have no idea where the other wires are for the tach. anyone have any tricks for this?
Thanks again everyone.
I posted this when the "Search the Forum" Button was not working...it was giving me an error page. I'm sorry for the repeat thread.
Now I've only got two codes.
311 and 332. I'm almost positive that they are vaccum line related. Does anyone know a good replacement for all of the small plastic (color coded) vaccum lines that go everywhere...most of mine are cracked. The rubber lines are not in the best of shape either, but I'm going to replace those this weekend.
Also, after using the search button, I found that the electronic motor on the t-case is most likely my problem. I'll be diving into that problem soon (no snow or rain forcasted this week).
The only problem that I have that still confuses me is the tachometer. Dang thing will not work, and both wires going into the coil (pass side underneath yellow with faded tracer) good and tight. I have no idea where the other wires are for the tach. anyone have any tricks for this?
Thanks again everyone.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
Likes: 3
From: Derbyshire, UK.
The nylon vacuum lines are 4mm OD so you can use 4mm air line. Have a look at SMC or whom ever is the main manufacturer in the US. They do a higher temperature version or make sure you route the lines away from the heat.
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Senior User
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From: GOING BACK TO TEXAS!!!
mucky,
thanks for the size...couldn't find it at any parts stores in this area. I did find a rubber/high heat hose that has a 4mm ID. With a little effort, it does slip over the old hose...I'll let everyone know how it goes. I got it at autozone for .89 a foot if other people are having problems finding the nylon hose.
Does anyone know about the wires for the tach?...Haynes doesn't say anything about them. I can't use the "Seach this Forum" button because of some PFM (Pure Freakin' Magic).
Thanks again,
Tim
thanks for the size...couldn't find it at any parts stores in this area. I did find a rubber/high heat hose that has a 4mm ID. With a little effort, it does slip over the old hose...I'll let everyone know how it goes. I got it at autozone for .89 a foot if other people are having problems finding the nylon hose.
Does anyone know about the wires for the tach?...Haynes doesn't say anything about them. I can't use the "Seach this Forum" button because of some PFM (Pure Freakin' Magic).
Thanks again,
Tim
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
Likes: 3
From: Derbyshire, UK.
Yes, you could repair the break with the rubber hose. Some of mine were like that from the previous owner.
WRT to obtaining 4mm OD Airline, try looking in your local directories for Pneumatic Suppliers to industry etc? I'm sure your local retail/ industrial parks will have a few suppliers. Also any Industrial Supplies place that supplies tools, workwear, janitorial, lubricatnts etc will be able to supply it. Not that familar with the suppliers in the US but I'm sure you can get the SMC brand over there so maybe try the SMC website and look for suppliers.
Anyone involved with machinery repair will be able to help.
This is the circuit diagram for a 92 5l Tach module if it will help you ID the right wires to check.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...72075/41828541
WRT to obtaining 4mm OD Airline, try looking in your local directories for Pneumatic Suppliers to industry etc? I'm sure your local retail/ industrial parks will have a few suppliers. Also any Industrial Supplies place that supplies tools, workwear, janitorial, lubricatnts etc will be able to supply it. Not that familar with the suppliers in the US but I'm sure you can get the SMC brand over there so maybe try the SMC website and look for suppliers.
Anyone involved with machinery repair will be able to help.
This is the circuit diagram for a 92 5l Tach module if it will help you ID the right wires to check.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...72075/41828541
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: GOING BACK TO TEXAS!!!
Had to re-route a couple of lines, just in case of heat issues, covered existing lines with conduit covering, and wrapped them with High Heat Duct Tape. Should be interesting tomarrow after the trails. Found a Electronic Shift Motor for the t-case, now I finally have the 4x. I couldn't see the diagram, thanks though. Found in an old post what wires to chase. We'll see soon.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: GOING BACK TO TEXAS!!!
The rubber "windshild washer/vacuum line" hose that has a 4mm ID works well. No problems with melting from heat around the exhaust. A good solution for people needing vacuum line hose.
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