I have a few questions on transmission fluids and maintenance. I'd appreciate your opinions.

First off, what are the pros and cons of "regular" Dexron III fluid vs. something more quality such as Red Line Synthetic D4 ATF?

Next, is it better to drop the pan yourself and drain the fluids, replace the filter, etc or bring it to a shop (or buy the necessary tool) and pump ALL the fluid out? I've heard both arguments for that one.

The transmission has 153,000 miles on it, and according to the previous owners maintenance receipts, it las last changed at 120,989 miles. Manuals recommend a change at 30,000 miles. I'm hoping to keep it going for a while longer as it is an every day vehicle that travels long distances, so spending a few more dollars to get better results is not necessarily a bad thing.

Also, is using Lucas upper cylinder lubricant/fuel injector cleaner with every oil change recommended?

Thanks for your time.

 

MWIEL, I like to drop the pan. It might not remove 100% of the fluid, but it will tell you alot about your transmission.

As long as it is shifting up normally, going into reverse normal, here is what I would do if I was you, and also what I have done:

Drop the pan, remove old ATF. Clean pan, then install a drain plug in your trans pan. A very easy procedure. However, a good trans shop will take your pan you bring in, and install a drain plug for you. This takes about ten minutes, and costs about $20, parts and their labor.

This way, you can now easily drain the ATF out of the transmission. With your new filter, drive the truck 1,000 miles, and simply drain the fluid out. No need to replace the filter.
This too, you will quickly have fresh ATF in the transmission. Plus, the next time you want to do a full service on your transmission, it is so much easier to drop an empty (and light) trans pan, to change the trans filter, pan gasket, ect.

That $20 or less, you spend on a pan drain plug, will save you a lot of $$ down the road. Plus your transmission will always have fresh ATF.

For a quality, dino ATF, use Chevron's trans fluids. Very resonable in price, and a quality trans fluid. I've never once had a trans problem when using Chevron ATF lubricants.

ED

 

Just changing the fluid in the pan and leaving more than half of the old fluid in there is not a good idea in my opinion.

Here's a better way to do it:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...nsmission.html

There is a step in there about removing the pan, and it shows you how to do it without a drain plug and without opening it while it's full of fluid.

 

Any other opinions on this? I can't imagine that running the engine with little or no tranny fluid is a very good idea....

 

You're not driving it, and run it only as long as it's needed to expel the leftover fluid. Nothing to worry, IMHO.

 

Any thoughts on not needing to change the filter?

 

I'll stick to my way. Remember, my way the transpan is cleaned, and a new transfilter is installed.
If your trans filter is packed with tiny shavings, dirt, sediment, ect. (everything a trans filter catches while doing it's job) Casey's way, still has that old filter installed. What good is that, if the trans filter cannot do it's job anymore? Your way, basically says, one never has to change the oil filter anymore, as long as the oil is drained out. (engine oil). I like my filters changed and replaced with new. The core reason of my procedure.

While you still leave some old ATF fluid in torque converter, it's not going to hurt anything. That is why, if you get a drain plug put in, draining and replacing what is removed, you'll have 99.9% clean ATF in your trans. That was my point.

Look at all those steps involved? I understand how it's done. Why it's done. My way is easier & faster when time is of an issue. Opening a trans drain plug, draining ATF (hot or warm) then replacing with equal amounts, is a 15 minute job, taking your time.

Lastly, loosening transmission fittings at the radiator, then toghtening them up (your way) leaves the chance of the fittings and threads becoming stripped. Over tightened = (leaks , drips) or not tighten enough = (leaks, drips). Do you constantly want to remove the fluid by wrenching on radiator transmission fittings?

Bottom line: I'll stay with my way. Much easier, and as I said, after the initial filter change and trans fluid added, the trans will almost always have near new fluid in it, through the remainder of it's life.

Ed

 

In your quick read of the article you must have missed this part where the pan is removed, cleaned, and a new filter installed:

 

IMO if you're going to do this every 30K there is absolutly no need to get ALL of the fluid out of the system. Just drop the pan, change the gasket, clean everything up, fill it up with your favorite fluid and call it day.

 

We are used to changing the factory filter when we drop the pan, but actually Ford does not require it. The factory filter is actually more of a screen. I would add an in-line filter (optional from Ford or available aftermarket) if you want a decent filter. Then you can change it and just use that drain plug you added.

Obviously, the more fluid you can change, the better. But it's so much easier and cheaper to just open the drain and change an inline filter, that you can do it more often.

 

As with most subjects we each have our own opinion. Mine is as follows:
Use the type of fluid specified by the manufacturer.
Have the transmission flushed by a trusted professional.
Only use Lucas upper cylinder lubricant/fuel injector cleaner as needed.

 

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YES, you are right and I stand corrected, Casey.

Ed

 

Synthetics are a worthy upgrade. But you need to consider the fluid cost vs the mileage of your transmission. At 150k, I would use the cheapest ATF that meets the spec and save the money for the rebuild.
ATF tech improves with each new spec. Mercon is gone replaced by MerconV. Dexron has improved with each revision.
With a newer vehicle, I'll always recommend full synthetics everwhere. But once mileage creeps up, you should consider the cost of repair and whether a switch to synthetic now will postpone those repairs compared to sticking with mineral/blend ATFs.

Installing the drainplug is a good idea. Simple ATF drain/refills goes a long way in refreshing the fluid. You do NOT need to do a complete flush. A simple drain/refill every 10k-20k along with a filter replacement every 40k-60k is plenty.

Most OEM ATF filters don't filter much anyway. If you want competent ATF filtering, install a remote oil filter mount and use an oil filter that can be changed cheaply whenever you exercise that drainplug. Another option is an ATF filter kits that Permacool, Transdapt, and B&M sell.

 

Thanks for all of your advice guys, I changed the fluid/filter on it with some regular fluid and installed a drain plug. I'll probably be changing the fluid it again in a few thousand miles, and I wont have to drop the pan. Thanks again

-Mike