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Hi all, I can't get my van to start, here is the background...
I never had an issue with the van the whole time I've owned it (5years), I let it sit for 2 to 3 months, I went to start it last week when it was really cold (4F) and colldn't get it to turn over, hooked up jumpers and turned it over no problem, but it wouldn't start. I pulled a plug and it looked old so I replaced all plugs, cap and rotor. I can pull a wire and put an old plug in, leave it on the block and turn the key to see a spark. I then pulled a plug and saw it was wet with gas. When I replaced the cap the screws popped off, so I had to take the distributor out and reinstall, I marked everything so it might be off by a hair, but not enought to keep it from starting. I also put about 4 gallons of new gas in because the gauge was looking low that's it, I'm getting spark and gas but no boom? what am I missing? I read about the IAC valve, could this keep it from starting? could I have a low voltage spark or other weird fuel issue?
Have you tried to check for spark with a spark tester? Sometimes you can still have a spark across the plug when out of the motor but won't fire when installed. Did the spark look white/blue or a red/orange color?
I didn't check with a spark tester, don't think I've ever seen one. spark was white, but keep in mind the plug I used was one of the old ones. How do you test for a spark once it is installed? Is it possible the IAC valve has stuck open? I checked the timing and spark again today, but it still wont start. I will get some starter fluid tomorrow and see if it will come to life for me. It might just be a combination of everything that won't let it start, ie. low fuel and low spark = no bang. I really don't know what to look for next.
If you don't have any luck getting it started, you may want to try a compression test just to verify it's not that. If it is getting gas and spark then double check the timing. If you think it may be the IAC then unplug the connection and try starting it to see if it makes a difference. Most engines that are fuel injected atleast the older ones don't use alot of the input sensors info until the motor has warmed up some.
Have you checked to make sure you still have a good ground to the motor and body.
Thanks Ranger, I suspect the timing as well, just found out I have to pull the spout connector to disable the computer advance before I can set the timing. So I will try that as soon as the weather breaks here.
just a quick update, I got it started today. It was the timing, I lined up the TDC on the crank and pointed the rotor at # 1, and had no luck at all, even twisting the distributor as much as I could both ways. Anyone familiar with the i6 in the Econoline knows how hard it is to get to the #1 cylinder. So I pulled the # 6 plug and checked for a spark, then I put my thumb in the hole and cranked it again, feeling for compression and watching for the spark -wow, it was way off. So I timed the cylinder stroke with the starter and stopped the engine at the highest compression. Then I popped the cap and saw the rotor was about 45˚ before the #6????, well I pulled the distributor and moved it to line up with #6. put the cap back on and Bam! she started right up. A little rough till I put #6 plug back in and fine tuned the timing. So then I ran it till it warmed up and then turned it off, tightened up the distributor holding nut thing, put the spout back in. And everything is OK again, I just can't get my head around why the rotor was so far off after I set it to the #1 at TDC - any ideas?
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