Help! '69 360 ignition issue
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2014
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Help! '69 360 ignition issue
hi gang;
the truck was running when parked. i did some work that required me to remove the distributor cap, now it won't start...
-new coil, getting votage (about 5-6 volts? going off memory); resistance checks out on the coil
-new condensor
-rotor, cap, plugs and wires are new
-with the cap off, rotating the engine by hand i can see the points open and close appropriately (with the key on there's a little spark when they open)
-i put cylinder 1 at TDC by hand, then repositioned the plug wires accordingly (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8). there is no timing mark on my pulley, so i pulled the spark plug and used a feeler to get it to TDC
its got a new edelbrock carb that is getting gas...
its turning without firing at all. it did this once before and i replaced the wiring going to the coil, and it fired right up.
any help, suggestions, ideas are appreciated.
THANKS
the truck was running when parked. i did some work that required me to remove the distributor cap, now it won't start...
-new coil, getting votage (about 5-6 volts? going off memory); resistance checks out on the coil
-new condensor
-rotor, cap, plugs and wires are new
-with the cap off, rotating the engine by hand i can see the points open and close appropriately (with the key on there's a little spark when they open)
-i put cylinder 1 at TDC by hand, then repositioned the plug wires accordingly (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8). there is no timing mark on my pulley, so i pulled the spark plug and used a feeler to get it to TDC
its got a new edelbrock carb that is getting gas...
its turning without firing at all. it did this once before and i replaced the wiring going to the coil, and it fired right up.
any help, suggestions, ideas are appreciated.
THANKS
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Best to find TDC with placing your thumb over the plug hole while cranking or bumping the engine. use a remote push button switch on the solenoid. Or a screw driver can be used jumping the large Batt. wire and the (S) wire on the solenoid. Its the wire next to the large Battery cable. Or have a helper use the ign switch you may need to put a wrench on the crank bolt for alignment on the crank pulley. You may need cleaning to find the markings or it's just a bump tit on it..
A new common problem is bad condensor from china, so may be replace it with the old one..
Orich
A new common problem is bad condensor from china, so may be replace it with the old one..
Orich
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2014
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anyway to test the condensor? the old one's wire broke off right at the terminal; hard to even solder it back effectively.
it wont fire at all without a properly functioning condensor, correct?
i found a 'tc' mark on the pulley, lined it up and the rotor was pointing at #1 plug wire.
the rotor rotates counter clockwise, right??
i'm soooooo confused.
it wont fire at all without a properly functioning condensor, correct?
i found a 'tc' mark on the pulley, lined it up and the rotor was pointing at #1 plug wire.
the rotor rotates counter clockwise, right??
i'm soooooo confused.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 299
From: Kenner,La.
no spark
x2 on the condenser, do your self a favor and only get your ignition parts from NAPA until you convert to a Petronics system. Also you should have 12 volts on the Bat side of the coil when the starter is turning the engine.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2014
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thanks for the help!
here's what i did today:
-new condensor
-i pulled the plugs (actually went ahead and changed the plugs and wires)
-i used a feeler in the spark plug ports to determine TDC. I went in firing order, watched the rotor, etc... i thought i had the timing NAILED.
still not even trying to fire. the only thing i havent replaced are the points.
the advance auto has a petronix unit on the shelf...
i have not checked cranking volts, but thats on my list now. (though the coil gets good spark with the engine block test).
i also used a timing light to to test my markings, and it seemed close. maybe not great, though.
again, all input is greatly appreciated!!!!
here's what i did today:
-new condensor
-i pulled the plugs (actually went ahead and changed the plugs and wires)
-i used a feeler in the spark plug ports to determine TDC. I went in firing order, watched the rotor, etc... i thought i had the timing NAILED.
still not even trying to fire. the only thing i havent replaced are the points.
the advance auto has a petronix unit on the shelf...
i have not checked cranking volts, but thats on my list now. (though the coil gets good spark with the engine block test).
i also used a timing light to to test my markings, and it seemed close. maybe not great, though.
again, all input is greatly appreciated!!!!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 299
From: Kenner,La.
ignition
If you end up installing the Petronics you will have a smoother running engine and the timing will stay more steady.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
check points gap .017 & 0.34 on plugs. Check the ground wire in dizzy that not broken.
Check for dizzy shaft for to much back & fourth side to side play & points are opening when you crank the motor or over. If ok then try doing my Hot wiring idea.
Check point wire for been, I've seen some where they shorting to the block.
orich
Check for dizzy shaft for to much back & fourth side to side play & points are opening when you crank the motor or over. If ok then try doing my Hot wiring idea.
Check point wire for been, I've seen some where they shorting to the block.
orich
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Is it possible that there may be a speck of dirt or a bit of grease in the point gap? I've had it happen to me. 
Are you still getting a spark at the points with the cap off?
FYI; Just in case it's after hours or a holiday, or you don't want to make a run to the parts store, it is possible to test a condenser. If you have a "Multi-meter" or VOM, just set it to the highest OHMS function.
- Disconnect the Condenser lead from the points and momentarily ground the lead. Don't leave it grounded.
- Connect the Positive (+) test lead to the Condenser lead.
- Touch the Negative (-) test lead to the metal body of the Condenser.
You should get an Infinite reading (no reading at all). It should not read zero Ohms. If you get a reading of zero Ohms or any reading other than infinite, then the condenser is defective.
Are you still getting a spark at the points with the cap off?
FYI; Just in case it's after hours or a holiday, or you don't want to make a run to the parts store, it is possible to test a condenser. If you have a "Multi-meter" or VOM, just set it to the highest OHMS function.
- Disconnect the Condenser lead from the points and momentarily ground the lead. Don't leave it grounded.
- Connect the Positive (+) test lead to the Condenser lead.
- Touch the Negative (-) test lead to the metal body of the Condenser.
You should get an Infinite reading (no reading at all). It should not read zero Ohms. If you get a reading of zero Ohms or any reading other than infinite, then the condenser is defective.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Well,1st,while you're still points ignition get a real condensor from your local Ford Dealer. Ford V8 single points Dizzys take condensor number C9AZ12300A and points part number B8Q12171A.
2ND,what happened in the beginning which made you work on it? Just a tune-up or something else?
3rd,with everything hooked up and cranking over,is it hitting every once in a while? Or just spinning like a top not trying to start at all?
2ND,what happened in the beginning which made you work on it? Just a tune-up or something else?
3rd,with everything hooked up and cranking over,is it hitting every once in a while? Or just spinning like a top not trying to start at all?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Foresthill, CA
[QUOTE=rtcabal;14921910]hi gang;
the truck was running when parked. i did some work that required me to remove the distributor cap, now it won't start...
Just what work did you do? It is hard to advise you not knowing what was done. Since it was running when parked and stopped running after it was worked on I would retrace my steps and make sure I did not make a mistake or install a faulty part.
the truck was running when parked. i did some work that required me to remove the distributor cap, now it won't start...
Just what work did you do? It is hard to advise you not knowing what was done. Since it was running when parked and stopped running after it was worked on I would retrace my steps and make sure I did not make a mistake or install a faulty part.
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