New engine in.. need advice!!!!!! please :)
The engine I pulled out had 240 000 miles, had a blown head gasket, and was begining to make a funny ticking noise... suspect a lifter or valve spring....
The engine I put in has 140 000 ish miles, and runs REALLY well...
here is where I need advice... the engine I pulled went like STINK... it was really quick for a NA 6.9L, and to boot, it got 16+ MPG
The engine I put in is SLOW... like RELLY SLOW! I played with advancing the pump timing, I turned up the fuel a tuch already... and it is still SLOW... and it is getting horrible millage....
should I change the IP from the engine I pulled and put it on the engine I just put in??? is there anything else it could be???
Thanks guys!
Bob
air filter
fuel filter
maybe bad injectors
bad IP
does the new engine smoke?
Is the new motor a high altitude motor?
My 7.3 states on the valve cover, that there are 2 versions, high alt., and low
High alt motor is not 185 HP, it is 166, hence it might seem slower, and run rougher, and eat gas like crazy. Being its tuned for high alt., and now its being forced to run at low alt. just an Idea!
I bought the engine off a local guy who has had the truck for years... He was a VERY skilled fabricator and specialized in putting Cummins into older landcruisers.... His friend is a diesel tech at a very reputable shop here in BC and did all the tuning on the Cummins engines as well as his ol 6.9L . He had set the timing shortly before I got it....
The engine does seem kind of smoky on acceleration..... It seems my other engine would have drove circles around this one....
The valve cover says 185 HP... assuming that makes it a low altitude engine??
I think the high altitude was 156 HP in 85.
My first guess is either deposits in the IP and injectors or weak injectors not spraying correctly.
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6.9L Old Style Block
Block Casting Number:
On left side of block (beneath oil cooler) 1805440C1
Note: Some 440 blocks are truly new style and must be visually inspected by raised donut around the block heater, frost plug (right rear). Old style below serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *No counter bored area for block heater
*No defined area on side of block for dip stick
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 3/8" (.375")
Head Bolts: *7/16, 12 point socket is used to torque head bolts
*Block tapped with 7/16-14 for head bolts
6.9L New Style Block
Block Casting Number: 1807996C1 Note: Some new style blocks have casting
number 440. Above serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *Has counterbored area for block heater
*Very defined relief area cast in side of block for dip stick tube.
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 15/32" (.470")
*Latest style (not all new style 6.9) has ribs around head bolts, rear two on left side go from head gasket surface to pan rail - same as 7.3
Head Bolts: *Same as old style 6.9
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I dont even have a cord for my block heater, the truck starts fine every morining here in BC not plugged in......
I am not too worried as I plan to freshen up my 87 block and re-install it within the year with an ATS kit....
I just will not be able to handle how slow this thing is for a year.... I think this week I will pop my IP and injectors out of my 87 block and switch them over.... I REALLY hope thats all it is....
There was no block or cylinder head differences between 85s and 87s as far as HP would be concerned was there??
Thanks guys!
Bob
Last edited by Mr. Bob; Feb 11, 2007 at 09:30 PM.
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