OK stupid question...IAC
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OK stupid question...IAC
Whats an IACV (valve?...) I've been reading through some of these threads regarding idle and starting problems and I'm wondering if this might be my problem? I have a 2001 5.4 Expy w/ 130k miles on it. Its idleing very low ~500-600rpm and won't idle at all when cold. I've replaced the fuel filter and the EGRs were done about 10k ago before this problem cropped up. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Post Fiend
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Idle Air Control valve. In the old days, we used to turn a screw that determined how 'open' or 'closed' the throttle plate would be in a carburetor and this determined idle speed. Today, idle speed is determined by how much air is allowed to pass through the IAC.
Based on the symptoms you provided it sounds like your problem could be related to the IAC.
Based on the symptoms you provided it sounds like your problem could be related to the IAC.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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IAC stands for idle air control valve its on the back side of intake manifold will carbon up and your truck will not idle. to keep it running i had to step on the gas its held on by two bolts you can remove it and clean it to see if it helps your problem just clean the valve itself not the solinoid, i dipped mine in carberator cleaner to clean it, solved my problem. this is a ford manual on how to remove and replace the iac valve
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».
µ 2. Remove the bolts and the accelerator splash shield.
µ 3. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.
µ 4. Remove the two bolts and the IAC valve.
µ 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install a new IAC valve gasket. Tighten the two bolts in 2 stages.
l Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
l Stage 2: Rotate 90 degrees.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».
µ 2. Remove the bolts and the accelerator splash shield.
µ 3. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.
µ 4. Remove the two bolts and the IAC valve.
µ 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install a new IAC valve gasket. Tighten the two bolts in 2 stages.
l Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
l Stage 2: Rotate 90 degrees.
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Many thanks
Thanks for your response I can't wait to check this, this is becoming a dangerous situation for my wife when the engine dies mid turn!
I do have a question on the re-install procedure. On stage 2 of the bolt torque it says to 'rotate 90 degrees' am I correct in assuming that I first tighten the two bolts to 10Nm and then give each one an additional 90 degree turn?
I do have a question on the re-install procedure. On stage 2 of the bolt torque it says to 'rotate 90 degrees' am I correct in assuming that I first tighten the two bolts to 10Nm and then give each one an additional 90 degree turn?
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I clean mine out about every 6 months or so, when it starts acting up. You need an 8mm combo wrench, it's a bit of a tight fit in there, especially getting the wore plug off. I've gotten to the point now, I unbolt that thing, stick a tube into it, connected to a can of carb cleaner, clean that out a little and let it sit for about 15 minutes to evaporate. Then I put it back together, and it runs fine! No problem!
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Bainbridge, OH
A quick test.
If you can get it to idle very low, try tapping the IAC valve with a wrech or small hammer. If the truck goes back to normal idle, the IAC valve is the culprit.
I have had a few that are too corroded to fix. Just depends on what is stopping the piston in the valve from moving.
If you replace the IAC, remember to let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes to relearn the idle control of the new valve.
If anyone tried to correct the problem by turning the screw on the throttle body, this is bad. To correct, bring the engine up to normal operating temperature, then (with a assistant) unplug the electrical connector from the IAC valve. Turn the screw until you can obtain 550 RPM. Once obtained, turn the engine off and reconnect the IAC Valve. Let engine idle 15-20 minutes to relearn base idle control.
If you can get it to idle very low, try tapping the IAC valve with a wrech or small hammer. If the truck goes back to normal idle, the IAC valve is the culprit.
I have had a few that are too corroded to fix. Just depends on what is stopping the piston in the valve from moving.
If you replace the IAC, remember to let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes to relearn the idle control of the new valve.
If anyone tried to correct the problem by turning the screw on the throttle body, this is bad. To correct, bring the engine up to normal operating temperature, then (with a assistant) unplug the electrical connector from the IAC valve. Turn the screw until you can obtain 550 RPM. Once obtained, turn the engine off and reconnect the IAC Valve. Let engine idle 15-20 minutes to relearn base idle control.
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IAC took care of it!
Thanks all for the pointers... I replaced the IACV and it idles perfect now! I didn't follow the Ford instructions exactly, "stage 1 torque bolts to 89 Nm...stage 2 rotate 90 degrees" yeah right! I could barely squeeze my hand back there to reach the bolts to begin with let alone get ANY kind of torque wrench/driver on those two bolts.
BTW, would it have killed Ford to give us an extra 3" on the wiring harness? What a pain in the **** getting the solenoid connector on and off even when I dragged it around to the other side! Oh well, it's done thanks again.
BTW, would it have killed Ford to give us an extra 3" on the wiring harness? What a pain in the **** getting the solenoid connector on and off even when I dragged it around to the other side! Oh well, it's done thanks again.
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From: All over Texas
Originally Posted by hokie86
I have the P1507 code on my 2000 5.4L EXPY and I need to replace my IAC. Just curious as to what yours cost and where you bought it.
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