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I own a 95 F150 with a 351
I have an exhaust leak that I have been chasing for a while now. When I got the truck last year the passenger side manifold was cracked, so I replaced it and the leak was gone for about a week. I went back in and found that the bolts had backed out and the gasket was toast. I figured that the manifold I got was warped, so I got it milled and put it back on. Then the other side started leaking and I replaced it. Now with new manifolds on each side there is still a leak. Then I tried putting exhaust donuts in the ends of the y pipe and the leak went away for about five minutes, then came back again. I think my Y pipe is warped, but I am not entirely sure. I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas about making this an easy fix. The only idea that I have left is to replace the Y pipe.
Motor mounts are good, I replaced one of them shortly after buying the truck. The flanges that mount off the bottom of the manifold are what I am concerned about. I finally found the torque specs for the manifold and flanges, I am going to torque everything the next good weather that I get. I will write back about what that does for me.
I went out to torque my manifolds on both sides and I saw on the passenger side mainfold that the bolts had backed out and when I pulled the manifold off the gasket was of course blown out. I used grade five bolts on this side and on the driver side I used grade eights. I went to the ford dealer to see what grade the bolts they sell are and the guy asked me what I was going to use. When I told him grade eights he said that he would not use them because he felt like they would snap when the metal heats and expands. The bolts ford sells were grade fives by the way. I wanted to know if anyone knows more about this. Do I need to put grade fives on the drivers side? Why did the bolts on the passengers side back out? Any help would be much appreciated.
NAPA sells a Dorman exhaust manifold hardware kit made up for those. They are grade eight with a black finish that helps to prevent siezing. I would also use anti-sieze. I did that for mine and have not had any problems. When you do put them in though, be sure and go back and retorque the bolts after about 25 miles or they will back out.
I bought a kit for the right manifold, the studs and nuts for the y-pipe and a 8 oz bottle of copper anti-sieze for $34.00 including the ridiculous sales tax we have here in WA.
OK Found my receipt. The bolts for the exhaust manifold are part number 600-3242 and are $14.00, the y-pipe stud and nut kit is part number 600-3232 and are $11.00.
Alright, I appreciate that. I will be replacing the grade fives the next free day that I have. Already have the y pipe studs. I will let you know how it turns out.
don't the manifolds just bolt to the heads from the factory with no gasket? i the old chevys did i remember doin a motor swap and putting headers on.. i havent takin my manifold off my 5 litre so not to sure.. mite be somethin u wana look into..
I had a few spare minutes today so I pulled my y pipe down and took the exhaust donuts out, they were toast. So I took them out and tightened the bolts back down. I even torqued them at 28 ft-lbs. I have not had enough time to change the passenger side grade five bolts out for the grade eights yet. For some reason I feel like the leak is coming from where the y-pipe attaches to the manifold. Has anyone else had this problem? If so how did you fix it?
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