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Yep have been there. This is starting to get me frusterated. and i am still haveing problems with my dip stick. 6 quarts of oil and barley reading it. Is teh flange supposed to be against teh block. **Before i rebuilt it the dipstick would read oil just fine.**
how much oil should i put in?
No i was thinknig of doing a compression test tommarow. (whats a good compression on the pistions?
LOL nope don't think the pan grew.
There isn't a fixed number to go by for your compression as head volume,
head gasket thickness, deck height and cam all play in.
What you want is even compression among all cylinders that's important.
I'm thinking a intake not seating, leave no doubts.
It may be too early to tell plug color but if you had a intake manifold port vacuum leak or around the carb base you'll have a lean carb backfire.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Feb 12, 2007 at 12:53 AM.
This is starting to get me frusterated. and i am still haveing problems with my dip stick. 6 quarts of oil and barley reading it. Is teh flange supposed to be against teh block. **Before i rebuilt it the dipstick would read oil just fine.**
Matthew
Uhhh, yeah. Sorry, thought you had that sorted out. The flange on the dip tube should seat to the block. My guess is the distance from the block to the flange would put your oil in the safe range on the stick. Six quarts with a new filter? I thought it was five w/filter, but I'm running the rear sump at six qts.
Originally Posted by Mav06
But i think i am still dealing with a timing Issue i listen to the tail pipe and i can hear back fires.(Not big but it has a nice rumble then pop pop then a nice rumble the pop pop Not loud or anything but still getting it.
I'm thinking misfire there. The thing about having the vacuum advance hooked up: It should not matter. If the carb is set up right, there would be no vacuum there at idle.
Since you are still setting the carb, un-hook the vacuum line and plug it. Set the ignition first, with the engine at operating temperature, at curb idle. After you get through that you can adjust the carb.
The 73 F100 with 360 and std trans requires 6* BTDC at 850 Rpm with Vacuum Hose HOOKED up.
The 73 F100 with 360 auto trans requires 3* BTDC at 650 Rpm with Vacuum Hose hooked up.
Remember this is only a static timing point and Timing gears & Chain may have been worn,broken, or stretched.
How many miles on this engine ?
How many miles/years on distributor ? (could be worn out)
Back-firing or fuel blowing out the carb is caused by Bad Timing setting.
Has everything been lined up on mechanical timing settings with engine off ?
#1 Piston at top of power stroke ? (Not Exhaust stroke)
Distributor Rotor set at #1 Position on distributor cap ?
Firing order correct to direction distrbutor rotor turns ?
Initial advance at 3 degrees BTDC? I wonder what the centrifugal advance is set at? If on 10L that would be a total of 23 degrees of total mechanical advance which is nothing. If set on 15L then around 33 degrees of total advance which is better but not the best. With a stock cam and a low compression engine I would think it would do better around 38-42 degrees of total advance. All Ford engines do better with more initial than the Ford specs has been my experience and none of mine run anywhere near Ford specs. The Cougar runs 15 degrees initial advance with 20 degrees mechanical to give me 35 degrees total for a moderate cam and 10.5:1 compression. All in by 3200 rpm and it runs way better than it did with stock settings. Played around with the vaccum advance and managed to get 20 mpg on the freeway out of a 302 with an estimated 340 HP provided I can stay away from WOT.
just replaced a damaged and rusted distributor on a 95 f150 I6 300 4.9l auto
transmission.
here is my questions
1) runs great and smooth at idle. take for a drive stalls at stop.
2) i am thinking timing( to get it to start i set TDC)
- mitchell says set to 10* BTDC how do i adjust this back.
do i pull dist. or leave in place.
do i turn crank with socket or tap etc.
i appoligize i hit the wrong tab i will start new thread. please disreagard.
Last edited by ameritaz3038; Feb 28, 2007 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: wrong forum
OK,
Big news That elderborck carb had a bad accelerator pump so i was tired of messing with it and went and got a holly at autozone they were on sale. so i mounted that and a machanic and i could never get it running right so i took that back to autozone and got another one. Put it on cranked over till fuel got upto it and started right up no tunning nothing ran great. WELL come to find out that the first one i bought was like a 750cfm giagantic carb for my 360. The 750cfm carb was put in a 600cfm box (IDIOTS dunno how it happend or anything but they are diffrent) so i got it all figured out Thanks so much for all your help and patience.
No i was thinknig of doing a compression test tommarow. (whats a good compression on the pistions?
A 360 that is rebuilt to perfection with everything new will have around 100 psi. I say that like I know what I'm talkin about but when i rebuilt my 360 and everything was brand new, they all came out to 105 psi. Then i got a 390 crank and rods and am happily turning over at around 190 psi!!