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I beat on the dash until I thought I was gonna break it. I also pulled the battery cables, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and that didn't work either. I haven't tried driving fast in reverse, as I don't really have a decent place to do that without people thinking I'm a nut.
I also gave a call to the service guy I deal with at my dealership. When I told him the problem, he sort of chuckled and said he had done about 2 dozen SD's in the last year for the same problem and that 99% of the time it was the cluster. Said it was going to be about $340 for the part (which is on about 3-6 week backorder!!) and 2 hours labor for "diagnosis and repair", so I am looking at around $600 total. I wish now that I had bought that extended warranty...... Oh well, it's only money that I'll be taking away from my mud truck.
I ran across the same problem a few months ago. Then after surfing this site I found that there was a TSB for the speedometer issue. I have not had the dealer take care of it yet because it has been intermittant. Ill try to post the link here (first attempt at posting a link). https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...php?tsb=06-7-4 Good luck, and by the way my truck is doing 45 in my driveway right now, good thing the E-brake is on.
Various Electronic and Driveability Symptoms and Codes:
2005 F-Super Duty trucks built before 5-11-05 may exhibit various electronic-related symptoms due to loose/miss-installed fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. These symptoms may be intermittent. The fuses should be inspected to verify they are installed into the terminals in the fuse box and not along side the terminals. Fuses--Symptoms
#9, 20 amp: Trailer turn signals inoperative
#10, 10 amp: Check Engine Light; Codes P1633, P0446
#11, 10 amp: Speedo bounce, ABS light, Cruise control inop; Codes U1900, U2023, P0500-P0503
#12, 2 amp: Cruise control inop, TBC Fault displayed, chime; Code C2803
#13, 15 amp: Day time running lamps inop
#15, 15 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; Codes P2614, P2617, P1378
#17, 10 amp: A/C inop or not cooling
#18, 10 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; P2614, P2617, P1378, P0611
#20, 10 amp: Trailer back up lamp inop
TSB 05-11-14
2005 F-Series Speedometer Needle Bounce, Cruise Control Drop Out, DTC P0500, and/or Uncommanded Wiper Activation:
If any of the above conditions are present, inspect the wiring harness running behind the coolant bottle to the wiper motor for chafing on a brake line clip and shorting to ground. If harness damage is found, repair and insulate the damage, and secure the harness away from the clip. Broadcast Message 3695.
Driving backwards won't help - with the electronic sensor doing the speed sensing, it doesn't matter which way you go. Reverse at 20MPH will just show 20MPH, not -20
Driving backwards won't help - with the electronic sensor doing the speed sensing, it doesn't matter which way you go. Reverse at 20MPH will just show 20MPH, not -20
I knew about the spedo not showing negative numbers when in reverse. I just wanted to say that I tried most of the suggestions that were given in this post, so I don't get the "well, you didn't try this...." deal later on.....
I knew about the spedo not showing negative numbers when in reverse. I just wanted to say that I tried most of the suggestions that were given in this post, so I don't get the "well, you didn't try this...." deal later on.....
even though I know I probably will............
Don't you already know that no matter WHAT you say, it'll be the wrong thing?
At least, doing it the other way, you coulda blasted whoever
Well, I took it out for a drive again today. It has settled down a bit and now reads 30 when not moving. So, hopefully it will go back to zero soon enough.
My 06 had the same problem. The dealership replaced the sensor on the rear axle and the cluster. That only worked for a while as it did it again. When I brought it back, they apologized and said that they should have also replaced the wire harness. After they replaced that, all was good in the world.
Speedo is finally back down to zero again when the truck is stopped. After it went back, I decided to put the service check on hold to fix that problem. Well, I guess I was a little premature on that decision as now the ABS light comes on!!! I took a road trip to Ohio this past weekend (about 750 miles round trip) to pick up a rear and the ABS light kicked on a few times. I stopped the truck, checked what I could on the side of the road (i.e. fluid levels, loose wires, check for leaks) and all looks in order. The fluid in the resevoir was about half full, really right in the middle of full/empty. I know that they check the ABS system as part of the TSB on the speedometer problem, so I wonder if that may be my culprit as to why it got stuck in the first place.
The light finally went off after a short stop for fuel, then came on again a little while later to again go off again by itself. It has been going on and off at random since i got back. Is there any way to tell what it is doing, or will I need for the light to be on when the codes are read?
You should be able to get the codes read, whether or not the ABS light is on - the ABS light being on means you don't have ABS. You should still be able to read the code(s).
Sounds like the speed sensor on the rear-end, but I hesitate to say replace it, because of the TSB saying stuff about the ABS system, etc.
I'd at least pull the VSS and clean it, and make sure all the electrical connections are fine.
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