Has anyone done this yet?...just wanted to know if you had any trouble installing the parts.

I just ordered one of these Kits that include;

new hubs & spindles
new 35 spline outer axles
Timken hub cups and cone bearings
Seals
Warn Extreme Hubs


The ball joints are worn out (175K miles) and while I've got everything apart, I'm going to install the Dynatrac stuff on the outer ends of the front axle.

This 'kit' does away with the Ford needle bearing type hubs, and uses common Timken wheel bearings, easily replaceable if you gotta! Plus new stronger outer axles with the Warn hubs. This set-up retains the original ABS. All the stuff bolts on, no machining req'd.

Go to Dynatrac.com for more info. Cost is less that $1800.

This looks like a great, strong set-up...of course now I'll have to jump out and 'dial in' the hubs, but the peace of mind knowing the hubs are 'IN' or 'OUT' has a lot to be said about the conversion...

Your thoughts...

PS...found the ball joints worn when I put the truck on an alignment rack today! I've got a 4 inch lift, and while looking at all the steering stuff, I found that the sector shaft (where the pitman arm's attached) in the steering box has a nasty CRACK showing across the splines!!! I drove home carefully! parked the truck and went and bought a new steering box! I'd just replaced the Tie rod assy and draglink assy last week, and didn't see the cracked shaft! That could have been nasty if I'd hit a 'bump' while turning and the shaft let go!

I guess it pays to look at all the steering parts, once in a while, especially if you run over the bumpy stuff offroad from time to time! I guess the lift and larger tires add to the possibility...be safe out there!

 

I have the Dynatrac Super Duty Combo Kit on my truck.

We've sold a few of the Free Spin kits to Ford owners with great feedback so far. Very nice kit, install is pretty straight forward. Be sure to pack those bearings full with some quality wheel bearing grease.

Good thing you caught that crack in the sector shaft before it let go.

 

I 'm going to install the kit when it's time for my ball joint replacement.How much did it run you?

 

I plan on going with one of those kits also! Let us know how the install went and how you like the kit!

 

Without a dpubt, the bext investment a Super Duty owner can do. I am not a big fan of the ESOF system, nor do I like the unit bearing front end.
Dynatrac also offers a replacement right side knuckle that relocates the drag link from the tie-rod to the knuckle (crossover steering) and will help prevent that steering box issue from returning.

 

...ordered from Dynatrac direct in So-Cal, under $1,800.

Due to demand, they told be about 10 day delivery - waiting for spindles, as I recall. Gave them order to get on the 'backorder' list...they said the kits are selling well, these days.

With only a 4 inch lift, I don't see how using a longer draglink directly to the RH knuckle would lessen the leverage to any extent. The pitman arm is a 'step-down' type, which may increase the thrust on the steering box sector (output) shaft.

When I replaced the steering gear yesterday, I noticed that the large nut/washer holding the pitman arm to the sector shaft was NOT torqued properly! It could have been 'working' on the shaft to some extent, causing the crack. The lift kit was on the truck when I bought it five months ago - I should have checked out the steering/alignment, but just hadn't gotten around to it till last week. The lift kit was a recent addition to this truck, a all the parts are still nice and 'shiney'...

Now with new steering gear, draglink, and tie rod, my steering wheel indexing is all screwed up - 'bottom' is now at about 9 O'Clock when driving straight!

Haven't found yet how to fix it...the input shaft connection (at the str box)is 'indexed' and only hooks up one way, as is the pitman arm....any suggestions out there?

Can you re-index the steering wheel itself? How hard is that to do with the air bag in the str wheel?

 

There should be an adjustment sleeve on the drag link itself.

Loosen up the two bolts and rotate the sleeve.

Do this with the key in the ON position.

 

DCSpecial....Thanks!

Duh! I just replaced the draglink and of course it comes in three parts - with that sleeve!

Can't believe I didn't realize that that's why it's adjustable! Open mouth, insert foot!

In 5 min's I'll be steering 'straight' again!