this sounds simple enough, where did you get the disc from? how long have you been running this setup? any ill efects yet? 95 bronco, msd,rest is all stock

 

It's funny you ask, as I actually used the knockout discs from metal electrical boxes. I doubled them up as if I used just one, it would bend. No problems so far with running this way. The computer doesn't know any different, and it makes adjustments for the lack of EGR on it's own. I did this mod mostly out of curiosity, and my EGR pipe was broken anyway. Either way it was coming off, so I used an alternative to the EGR system. I don't live in an emissions area, so I am not sure how it would affect testing. I would suspect much, as the EGR is mainly used in the upper portion of the throttle range.

As for the coolant lines, you could use caps if you are worried about dirt or bugs getting into TB spacer.

 

thanks for the tip Aaron, will try this soon, only problem maybe getting hold of the disc. any place in particular or did you have on hand?

 

I had the discs on hand, but most hardware stores will have them. You can get a metal electrical box with the round knockouts for less than $1.

 

Hey mine is stilling running just fine runs stronger. put a temp gauge to the mainfold its a lot cooler than before about 190* on a hot AZ day after driving for an hour or so. And considering i live in AZ this tiny mod i told you guys about seems to help a lot. have no problem with the EGR stuff or anything just runs cooler and gets off the line quicker.

 

I'll need to replace my TPS anyway and wondered how large the diameter of the coolant hoses are so I can pick up the right size connector for the two hoses before I start. Could someone drop a quick note back and save me an extra trip?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Aug-02 AT 00:55 AM (EST)]Chris,i used a 5/16 inside dia. splicer from lowes. could have used one size bigger cause i had to wrench down on the clamps. you will want to get some caps for the plate so bugs wont get in. good luck!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Aug-02 AT 00:54 AM (EST)]Aaron D. thanks again for the reply, sorry for asking a stupid questions. i must be having a blonde senior moment.

 

For those of you keeping the coolant line to the throttle body on your truck (I am, in Colorado), be sure to check it for wear. On a 1990 with the E40D, there are two lines. One from the radiator to the top of the throttle body, and one short one near the t-stat that is like a loop. The one near the T-stat gave out on me the other day. Most people overlook these lines when changing radiator hoses, so they stay on there for years until they break. I have now changed every single hose on my Bronco except the one from the radiator to the throttle body, which I am looking to order (it is a special hose, it goes from rubber to metal and back to rubber). By the way, some other Broncos have a different setup, there is a tee in the heater hose that comes off the water pump, I think this is instead of the line that comes from the radiatior. PS -another hose you will want to replace is the crossover from the t-stat to the water pump. PPS - somebody tell me if I've missed a hose, I did upper and lower radiator, heater hoses, the t-stat/water pump crossover, and the lower throttle body, with the upper being ordered.

 

>For those of you keeping the coolant line to the throttle
>body on your truck (I am, in Colorado), be sure to check it
>for wear.

I dropped in a new motor and left the coolant lines off the tb. I'll let you know how it handles CO winters but I dont' foresee any problems. I had no delusions of an increase in power from the 'ol butt-dyno, I just don't like the extra hoses. More hoses mean more chances for failure IMO.

BTW, what did you pay for the rubber/metal/rubber hose that runs across the top of the rad?

 

With tax it was 62 bucks! If you want to save money, you could just run a rubber hose, I'm sure that would work fine.

 

JBronco,

I have replaced that line. Cut the metal crimp clamp off where the hose attaches to the metal line, get a hose of same size, and use a normal clamp to attach the rubber portion to the metal line. It works great, and for that amount of hose and the clamp, cost is about $5. I also really short rubber hose on the other side of that metal line as mine was shot when I replaced the radiator.

 

I thought about that...what the he!!, I already paid for it. It can be one more shiny thing under my hood, along with the new water pump, alternator, power steering pump, etc. etc.!

 

Just recently did the tbody coolant bypass and think it's a cheap mod for nice little gain.

I connected the the upper & lower lines together with a 3/8" plastic splicer from NAPA.

For those of you in states with inspections, an Elderbrock tecnician told me about this mod, saying it would have no affect on tailpipe emmision computer check but that it would fail the visual inspection if they saw it. I figured two shinny pipe ends open or covered with vacuum caps would be pretty obvious..so here's what I did:

Bought 3/8" hose, cut it to the right length, connected to the top of tbody, then looped it to the bottom. It serves to "cap off" the open pipes on the t-body, and unless that inspecter is awefully dilligent, now there so much hose going everywhere it's hard to tell what goes where... it actually looks like it might have been meant to be that way. Of course my new piece of hose does nothing, other than make this mod stealthy.




Rob

1996 Ford Bronco, 5.8L:
-Done:Hypertech III,Powerstat, K&N FIPK,cooler TBody bypass,Mac equal length headers, Gibson cat-back, Taylor wires, Urethane bushings, BF Goodrich TA's, Roadmaster active suspension, Nozzle lights, Euro taillights
-ToDo: MSD Coil, Hypertech cap & rotor, Edelbrock performer intake manifold & 56 Tbody, Granetelli MAF

 

Hey Aaron d. that tip on the egr valve was great. i dont worry about emission either, i would rather use pollution stuff if it worked better cause i hunt ducks and ive noticed a difference each winter but anyways, the kick in the seat o meter noticed a huge difference and all the surging from cold till warm up is gone. that total mod including throttle plate hose rerouted was 5.00$ cant beat that. thanks again and this site rules.