idle speed
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Connecticut Shoreline
idle speed
I repaired the EGR tube, and the vehicle runs much better.
The idle still does not drop much below 1000 RPM.
I adjusted the idle speed screw at the Throttle body and it still won't idle down to the specified 850 RPM.
Turned the key on and off to reset the micro, still about 1000 RPM.
I read somewhere about unplugging the Air Bybass solenoid on top of the plenum.
I did not try the later, and then adjust the speed screw.
The idle still does not drop much below 1000 RPM.
I adjusted the idle speed screw at the Throttle body and it still won't idle down to the specified 850 RPM.
Turned the key on and off to reset the micro, still about 1000 RPM.
I read somewhere about unplugging the Air Bybass solenoid on top of the plenum.
I did not try the later, and then adjust the speed screw.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Connecticut Shoreline
Found this article in the archives, and it may be my problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...dle+speed+high
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...dle+speed+high
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
1) pull your spout connector and check / set base ignition timing to 10 degrees BTDC.
2) with base timing set and spout connector removed, disconnect the IAC and set idle speed to 500 rpm by idle stop screw.
3) reconnect IAC, spout connector and check idle rpm.
I have a feeling that your idle stop screw is cranked down just a little too far still. You can loosen it all the way out until the screw comes out and then try adjusting from there as well, but the only thing you have to take into consideration is if you leave it "too loose", you'll have a sticky gas pedal.
2) with base timing set and spout connector removed, disconnect the IAC and set idle speed to 500 rpm by idle stop screw.
3) reconnect IAC, spout connector and check idle rpm.
I have a feeling that your idle stop screw is cranked down just a little too far still. You can loosen it all the way out until the screw comes out and then try adjusting from there as well, but the only thing you have to take into consideration is if you leave it "too loose", you'll have a sticky gas pedal.
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Freshman User
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From: Connecticut Shoreline
The idle set screw is backed off so far that the linkage almost binds,
I have to tighten it back in a couple of turns.
I know about the IAC connector, but what is the "spout" connector ?
I have to tighten it back in a couple of turns.
I know about the IAC connector, but what is the "spout" connector ?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
I don't recall there being any holes in the throttle body butterfly plate on mine. If you had a vacuum leak, though, or at least on mine, my idle speed lowered and the engine shook. Could also be a faulty IAC.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
The SPOUT connector (so marked) comes off the wiring harness from the distributor / TFI module and is located on the passenger's side of the upper intake, maybe 6" or so from the distributor. It's a two-wire connector.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Connecticut Shoreline
OK,
The one you jump out when setting the timing.
I 've never heard it called a spout connector.
Thanks
The one you jump out when setting the timing.
I 've never heard it called a spout connector.
Thanks
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Connecticut Shoreline
KP,
The IAC is my problem.
I can achieve 500 rpm with it unplugged, but it averages 1100 RPM with the AIC plugged in and engine is up to temp.
The IAC is my problem.
I can achieve 500 rpm with it unplugged, but it averages 1100 RPM with the AIC plugged in and engine is up to temp.
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