Lifting and 4X4 Converting a E150
Alaskavan that is a awesome van!
I think for now I'm just going to lift mine. I think I will have time this fall to do the 4x4 conversion to my van. Those pics totally inspired me and am wanting to do this really bad. Thanks for all the replies, they helped a lot.
I think for now I'm just going to lift mine. I think I will have time this fall to do the 4x4 conversion to my van. Those pics totally inspired me and am wanting to do this really bad. Thanks for all the replies, they helped a lot.
Thanks guys. I tried to use the Icelandic vans as a template. Those things are awesome!
It has a V10, 4r100, 1356. Axles are Dana 60's front and rear. Front is geared at 5.13 with a very tight powerloc. Alloy shafts and 35 spline stubs. ABS equipped. Rear is 5.13 geared as well, detroit, 35 spline 1.5 inch alloy shafts. I may re-gear but am waiting to see how the new Stak 3spd t-case works out. This thing cruises super nice on the highway, but I'd like a little lower gears offroad for the tricky stuff. The Stak case should solve that nicely. I still get 10mpg as verified with a Scanguage set with GPS. Snorkle is functional. There is a bed in the back for the wife and I with storage underneath. One daughter sleeps on a bench turned sideways up against the wall, the other daughter sleeps on a padded board across the front seats. The dog sleeps in there too if it's cold. Throw in an inverter, dual dvds for the girls, GPS, a cooler fridge, and a portapotty for the gals, it's a rolling camping mansion. Drove it down to Moab two summers ago and did some rock crawling. good times. Here's a link to my pics if you'd like to look.
It has a V10, 4r100, 1356. Axles are Dana 60's front and rear. Front is geared at 5.13 with a very tight powerloc. Alloy shafts and 35 spline stubs. ABS equipped. Rear is 5.13 geared as well, detroit, 35 spline 1.5 inch alloy shafts. I may re-gear but am waiting to see how the new Stak 3spd t-case works out. This thing cruises super nice on the highway, but I'd like a little lower gears offroad for the tricky stuff. The Stak case should solve that nicely. I still get 10mpg as verified with a Scanguage set with GPS. Snorkle is functional. There is a bed in the back for the wife and I with storage underneath. One daughter sleeps on a bench turned sideways up against the wall, the other daughter sleeps on a padded board across the front seats. The dog sleeps in there too if it's cold. Throw in an inverter, dual dvds for the girls, GPS, a cooler fridge, and a portapotty for the gals, it's a rolling camping mansion. Drove it down to Moab two summers ago and did some rock crawling. good times. Here's a link to my pics if you'd like to look.
As simple as...
Hi,
I'm new here and kinda new to vans. I bought mine a year ago and have been very satisfied with it. I would like to do some things to make it all the more better. My van is a '84 E150 5.8L ( I can't tell if its a W or C), 4bbl, C6 tranny. Has 190K. It is in fair shape and decided that is could be my car hauler and occasional offroad toy.
Is lifting a F150 and a E150 the same thing? I want to lift it 4''s, the reason for this is I found some Rancho springs from my Dad's old F150 and they are 4'' lift springs.
What else would I need? I am going to buy some longer and new shocks. JC Whitney sells lift blocks for the rear leaf springs (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...ift+block+kits) and I think could handle the rear.
The ony thing I am not sure on is the trailing arm, who sells plates to drop those lower for more clearance.
Then the 4X4, would be as simple as buying a Bronco or F150 parts truck w/ 4X4 and just swap everything over?
All advice and opinions welcome.
Here's some pics:


I'm new here and kinda new to vans. I bought mine a year ago and have been very satisfied with it. I would like to do some things to make it all the more better. My van is a '84 E150 5.8L ( I can't tell if its a W or C), 4bbl, C6 tranny. Has 190K. It is in fair shape and decided that is could be my car hauler and occasional offroad toy.
Is lifting a F150 and a E150 the same thing? I want to lift it 4''s, the reason for this is I found some Rancho springs from my Dad's old F150 and they are 4'' lift springs.
What else would I need? I am going to buy some longer and new shocks. JC Whitney sells lift blocks for the rear leaf springs (http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...ift+block+kits) and I think could handle the rear.
The ony thing I am not sure on is the trailing arm, who sells plates to drop those lower for more clearance.
Then the 4X4, would be as simple as buying a Bronco or F150 parts truck w/ 4X4 and just swap everything over?
All advice and opinions welcome.
Here's some pics:


I have kinda the same general idea for my project, of which I'm in neck deep at the top of a sloped driveway. I'm going for the '79 Bronco/F-150 parts underneath the '89 E-150. Radius armed, coil spring suspension mounting from around the same area as the existing 2wd radius arms, and the same 4wd equipment for the trans and t-case. WARNING: Be careful swapping parts from F-150s or Broncos. Vans from 1975-current have a 42" wide frame from outside to outside. Trucks from at least as early as 1975 up until 1979 have a 38" wide frame outside to outside. From what I have measured, everything about my frame, transmission, rear axle, trans cross member, and engine cross member is identical to the small block V8s. I started my build on an '89 shorty window van (E-142) with a 4.9l MPFI Straight Six and the C-6 Auto. Gutted and rebuilt the trans, bought the '89 Bronco aluminum transfer case adapter and output shaft and installed those during rebuild. Called OffRoad Design for an NP-205 (Just like the 1978-79 Broncos and F-150's had) and bolted that to the rear of the adapter housing, then suspended everything with U-joint Offroad's #TX002. Everything bolts together quite smoothly, some measuring/drilling required for '75-'91 vans. You can mount the axle housing underneath the van with just a little stretch on the radius arm bushings and c bushings on the housing. Once you do that, you'll realize the problem; your bottom coil spring buckets are 2" too far into the frame on both sides from where they line up on the top towers. It'll result in something like this \ / when you look at the coils from the front. Definitely not safe without squaring off the mounting points with the coil. You're either making some fancy angled coil towers and weird angled brackets for underneath the buckets, having to go with super offset wheels, or take fat chunks out of your frame on both sides and weld in some custom towers about 2" in from the outside. After deciding I didn't want dangerously angle my coil springs topside angled out, nor cut big chunks out of my frame, I decided I would measure full droop and compression and order up some coilovers from either Fox or King. Yes, very expensive, but from the abuse they can handle, I think it will be well worth it. Plus, they are much skinnier, making installation on a wider frame much easier. I also bought some F-250 shock towers which are a very versatile mounting point for all kinds of shocks. I'm gonna need to measure and order up some new driveshafts because the slip yoke that was once there turns into a fixed yoke to support a spline'd 2 piece driveshaft, and the front never had a driveshaft in the first place. Let me know if you wanna see any pics of my progress or problems.
Given that the thread is almost 10 years old and the OP hasn't posted anything on this forum for over 7 years, you probably aren't helping him.
On the other hand, do we want to see pictures of your project? That's like asking an alcoholic if he wants a drink! Of course we do!
On the other hand, do we want to see pictures of your project? That's like asking an alcoholic if he wants a drink! Of course we do!







