distributor
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distributor
Hello all,
I have got a problem I kinda screwed myself because of my newness to all of this. I pull my distributor with out makeing and marks and now i have rebuilt my engine and i need to know how to put the distributor back in and get it all timed up. its a 1973 ford 360 with a 650 4 bbl carb. thanks and advice would be apprecated.
Matthew
I have got a problem I kinda screwed myself because of my newness to all of this. I pull my distributor with out makeing and marks and now i have rebuilt my engine and i need to know how to put the distributor back in and get it all timed up. its a 1973 ford 360 with a 650 4 bbl carb. thanks and advice would be apprecated.
Matthew
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Hopefully you have an idea which terminal you want to use for #1 cylinder, mark that location on the distributer housing. With the #1 piston at TDC, intake valve just closed, timing pointer at 0*, drop the distributer in so the rotor points to the #1 position on the housing. You want your range of travel to have a little more advance than retard. This is good enough to get the engine started, you can't do much more until it's warmed up.
Play around some, do it over a few times, now is a good time to learn.
Play around some, do it over a few times, now is a good time to learn.
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What do you mean by this,
"You want your range of travel to have a little more advance than retard"
Where do i look at this. Ok so its pretty simple to get it aligned?
Thanks,
Matthew
p.s sorry if i posted more then once i didn't know it when through evertime i would press submit reply it would just halt and not go anywere.
"You want your range of travel to have a little more advance than retard"
Where do i look at this. Ok so its pretty simple to get it aligned?
Thanks,
Matthew
p.s sorry if i posted more then once i didn't know it when through evertime i would press submit reply it would just halt and not go anywere.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Golden, CO
OK, when the engine is at TDC, you drop the dist in, the rotor will turn as it engages the cam. Not a big deal, you rotate the distributer to adjust timing. With the rotor pointing at the mark you made on the housing, you want to be able to turn it clockwise (advanced) more than counterclockise (retard). You only have so much travel between the intake and the water pump.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Otay, you get to make one. ;~)
Look on the distributer cap, you might be lucky and have a number "1" molded next to one of the terminal towers. That is your reference for making a mark on the distributer housing. If you are not lucky, hold the distributer so that the vacuum advance is pointing at you, there is a spring clip next to it, at say, the six-o-clock position. There is another spring clip at, say, the twelve-o-clock position. The number one terminal is just to the right of the twelve-o-clock spring clip. Hope I haven't made that too confusing.
Look on the distributer cap, you might be lucky and have a number "1" molded next to one of the terminal towers. That is your reference for making a mark on the distributer housing. If you are not lucky, hold the distributer so that the vacuum advance is pointing at you, there is a spring clip next to it, at say, the six-o-clock position. There is another spring clip at, say, the twelve-o-clock position. The number one terminal is just to the right of the twelve-o-clock spring clip. Hope I haven't made that too confusing.
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Ok well i think i found one of my problems LOL, I had the spark plug wires all backwards, i went clockwise not counterclock wise so i will fix that in the morning **The sad thing is that a machanic told me to do it that way**
I would like to add Duel exhaust what diamiter would be good and what would be a good brand. could you point me in the right direction. Also would that add more performance to it?
Thanks for all your help
Matthew
I would like to add Duel exhaust what diamiter would be good and what would be a good brand. could you point me in the right direction. Also would that add more performance to it?
Thanks for all your help
Matthew
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by Mav06
Ok well i think i found one of my problems LOL, I had the spark plug wires all backwards, i went clockwise not counterclock wise so i will fix that in the morning **The sad thing is that a machanic told me to do it that way**
I would like to add Duel exhaust what diamiter would be good and what would be a good brand. could you point me in the right direction. Also would that add more performance to it?
Matthew
Matthew
What I did was fix my original Y pipe. :)
(Lost the picture)
I asked several guys about what the orginal Y pipe looks like "on the inside"... "did they do a good job to help the flow?"
Sorry suckers wouldn't just come out and tell me they didn't know. :/
Told me what they thought I wanted to hear I guess?
Like your distributor advice huh? ;)
Anyway the straight pipe had a hole the shape of a foot ball and no bigger than a golf ball and was torch cut and ragged as anything! :/
One side of the engine spent 180,000 miles trying to breath through that piece of crap. :/
I really like my pickup, bought it new... but I ain't in love with Ford.
So it was running like a 6 cylinder engine since, as if, two cylinders, weren't doing much on that one bank. Header guys will brag on headers, wonder how much of that was due to Ford's sorry Y pipe? :)
If they are going from stock to duel exhaust with headers they are getting a "double whammy" in improved performance. :)
Ooops forgot to say "rant mode on". ;)
Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by Mav06
Ok thanks a bunch
Matthew
Matthew
The one Y pipe is 2+1/4" and the straight one is 2+1/2" and I ran 2+1/2" all the way back. you don't want to go to 3" unless you are going for a full race type rpm range etc. (?)
My original setup ('75 F150 360 2V T18) had a large round muffler that had a 2+1/2" inlet and a 2+1/4" outlet that, then went over the axle and out the side.
Alvin in AZ
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