Kickdown linkage
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by Mav06
Howdy all,
My c-6 tranny does not have the kick down linkage, how hard is it to add it?
What side of the tranny is it supposed to go to?
Thanks
Matthew
My c-6 tranny does not have the kick down linkage, how hard is it to add it?
What side of the tranny is it supposed to go to?
Thanks
Matthew
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,118
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From: Williamson, NY
The kick down linkage runs down the DS of the engine/transmission. You will need to find the kick down rod from a truck with the same engine and tranny that you have. If the intake manifold has been changed from stock, you may also need a kick down rod extender or bend the rod to get the proper length. You will need two E-clips to attach the rod to your carb and tranny. Summit has the push rod adapters if you need them.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
7A187 K/D Rod 360/390 1973/76
Originally Posted by Mav06
i have a 1973 f100 with a 360. The intake manifold has been changed but my previous carb didn't have it either.
Thanks
Matthew
Thanks
Matthew
F100/350 .. 1975/76 360/390 C6 .. D5TZ-7A187-B ........".........
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by SoArkSI
what exactly does the kickdown linkage do?? (im fixing to pull a 4spd and swap a c6.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Feb 7, 2007 at 07:03 AM.
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oh ok, that makes since. im not very familar with autos and am trying to learn some about them. before i start on my auto swap
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Where would i be able to obtain a kick down rod? Also would This carb fit a 1973 ford 360. And i was think about converting my distributor from points to electronic.
Carb
Conversion kit
Thanks
Matthew
Carb
Conversion kit
Thanks
Matthew
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Your favorite Pick-N-Pull for the rod, get the "E" clips.
Ignition conversion, your choice, I prefer induction vs CD
for the longer spark duration time. Stay away from units that
require a ballast resistor or resistor wire.No name as i'm partial
to one brand after other brand failures, sorry can't post to avoid
product bias on my opinions.
Ignition conversion, your choice, I prefer induction vs CD
for the longer spark duration time. Stay away from units that
require a ballast resistor or resistor wire.No name as i'm partial
to one brand after other brand failures, sorry can't post to avoid
product bias on my opinions.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Feb 11, 2007 at 12:45 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,118
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From: Williamson, NY
Originally Posted by SoArkSI
when you say ignition conversion and talk about balast resistor or resistor wires, where exactly are these and are they for auto transmissions or for swaping motors??
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Not all points to electronic conversion units run the full 12 volts, others run
full 12 volts.
In the second case you need to supply a 12 volt feed and not use the factory feed as it has a resistor built in, that would be in the factory wiring harness.
With the electronic units that require ballast or resistor wire all your gaining is the elimination of points, resistor or ballast still limits you coil current.
Current is heat so why limit limit yourself with a resitor or ballast required unit?
Get one that operates on full 12 volts for a higher secondary current at the plug, buy good once. Inductive ignition systems have a longer spark duration which is what is needed on a street motor be it stock or warmed over, JMO.
I don't want to get hammered because of my opinion about other brands in inductive vs capacitor discharge.
Biggest bang (spark) for the buck again my opinion is a Crane XR 3000 with their LX 91 coil. A optical trigger system vs magnetic hall effect, 30 plus years with a Allison which later was bought by Crane without failure. JMO's
full 12 volts.
In the second case you need to supply a 12 volt feed and not use the factory feed as it has a resistor built in, that would be in the factory wiring harness.
With the electronic units that require ballast or resistor wire all your gaining is the elimination of points, resistor or ballast still limits you coil current.
Current is heat so why limit limit yourself with a resitor or ballast required unit?
Get one that operates on full 12 volts for a higher secondary current at the plug, buy good once. Inductive ignition systems have a longer spark duration which is what is needed on a street motor be it stock or warmed over, JMO.
I don't want to get hammered because of my opinion about other brands in inductive vs capacitor discharge.
Biggest bang (spark) for the buck again my opinion is a Crane XR 3000 with their LX 91 coil. A optical trigger system vs magnetic hall effect, 30 plus years with a Allison which later was bought by Crane without failure. JMO's