Several years ago a company bought a truck with a big cam in it to pull there race car they looked at the ex manifolds and decided to build a tuned header for it. They wound up marketing it I belive it was called a basket of snakes. I only knew 2 guys that bought it but they both claimed good results. I know one of them tried a couple of years ago to get another set but the company no longer exist.

 

I bet you could get good top boost numbers with tuned headers.
But the extra volume in the headers has to have pressure close to the boost pressure.

Bigger or more tubes before the turbo usually means increased turbo lag until the exhaust side pressure catches up with the intake side pressure.

 

I don't know if he lost some bottom power but he is a number guy like you and tries every truck performance and mileage upgrade that makes sense to him.

 

Dave Sponaugle I see what you mean. Very restrictive. But did you have to cut part of the radiator brace to fit that massive ram air intake? I measured the temperature of the air right inside the intake with the truck off after a trip, it was 100 degrees F. The intake hose was 111 F, the air box 130 F! Outside air temp was 64 F.

My friend and I also finished my exhaust. It was easy, cheap, and I can feel a positive difference in power. I have pics and will post them when I figure out how to.

 

What radiator brace?

Oh, you mean the one in the garage in the scrap heap.

I made a custom bracket that drops down from the top of the radiator shell.
I also took a 4" grider with a cut off wheel to the radiator, most of the side flanges are gone on it as well.

My truck spends most of it's time on the highway though, so if you go off road much you might not want to cut out as much as I did.



Yeah I know, our WV roads do leave a bit to be desired sometimes.

 

I finished my ram-air-cold-air intake. I still can not figure out how to post pictures but the results are impressive:
Outside air Temp was 60 F. The air box was 84 F! That is a 46 F drop in temperature from the 130 F I had posted above. Both days consisted of about a half-hour of driving around town. I felt a noticeable increase in power when already moving, particularly when I had to make a yellow .

 

Those have got to be the ugliest designed headers. They are so different in lengh side to side, not good for performance.

 

The biggest drawback of headers, IMO, is working around them. I hate having to unbolt or remove one just to change a starter ( or spark plugs), for example. And there are some chassis that you just can't mount identical headers on the left and right side. So you have to sacrifice looks for function. A good header builder will match L and R tube lengths as close as possible.

While they look completely different. I think you would find that the overall length of the runners is pretty close (4-6"). Split the difference between the collector and where it is attached to the RH header, I think it would have been perfect.

But discussing performance headers on a NA, is like trying to decide on a color of lipstick for an ugly woman when she really needs a face lift (turbo)

Jason

 

Jason

Lipstick is 20 bucks for the expensive good stuff

Facelifts are 10 grand in a Mexican hospital.

 

There was a Guy over at TDS that Dyno'd Stans Headers. Gained like 5-7 HP. IIRC

 

It troubles me that you actually know the price for the "good" lipstick... I thought I knew what kind of guy you were.

This is what I'm getting at. A set of headers for the IDI is going to run about $500. Lets give the benefit of the doubt and say that they will give you 10 hp. A turbo kit may run $2000-2500, and you will gain anywhere from 50-100 hp. If you look around, you can find used turbo kits for $500 (maybe cheaper). But even if you buy new at $2200, the cost per HP is cheaper with the turbo kit.

Jason

 

Part No. 269 on Stan's Headers site are for ALL 6.9-7.3L IDI diesels. Talked to Stan last week about them as I have a 1992 IDI.

 

I was thinking of headers to lessen restriction on my non-turbo 92 for improving fuel economy and "some" power gain. I like the non-turbo personlly; less moving parts, less chance of breakdowns - KISS principle works here. I ran a truck fleet garage for about 10 years, and if I don't need a turbo, why bother with it? It's just one more thing to break......

I don't tow anything; my truck simply gets used as a "pickup truck". I'm looking for 22mpg on the highway, and if $500 headers will help, it doesn't take long to make it up (the $500) in fuel savings if you drive a lot of highway miles.

 

am i being too simplistic in thinking that rather than spending the big $$$ for headers, whether or not they make the gains the manufacturer claims, what would be wrong with just removing the stock exhaust manifolds and taking a die grinder and porting and polishing the insides to improve flow and then just bending up some pipe and running a dual exhaust with a cross-over pipe between them. i realize this is gas engine technology (and a poor man's fix at that) but it seems like that would open the exhause gas flow much more than what the stock manifold does. just a thought. just so y'all will know, it won't hurt my feelings if i'm wrong and you tell me.

speedrdr

 

I plan on installing a h-pipe and and another high flow muffler on the driver side. As of now I have a high flow muffler with a side exit right after the cab on the passenger side.