Installing IAC - Any Hints??
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 421
From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by i eat hybrids
Not trying to hyjack the thread but I have a V-10 that eems to have a similar problem like explained above. In the cold weather it takes a couple turns on the key to start the engine and then when it starts it stalls unless you keep the RPM's past 1,500 to 2,000 RPM's. You have to keep the RPM's like that for 30 seconds to a minute and then the truck runs perfectly fine for the rest of the day. It only does this when you leave the engine off for more then 8 hours. Could this be the case of a failing IAC or bad spark plugs? The plugs have never been changed and the truck has 98,00o miles on it.
Oh, and DO THOSE PLUGS!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by i eat hybrids
Krewat, what exactly is an IAC and what does it stand for? Are they expensive?
As far as expense...read the previous posts in this thread. They talk about cost.
Almost forgot...but take a look in my gallery. I have a step-by-step with pictures for removal and install.
OBTW: I agree with the other posts...DO those plugs!
Good luck...
biz
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Having a similar issue- Over the past 6 months, the engine wouldn't start without a second twist of the key. Only happened about once in every 20-30 starts. Otherwise, everything was fine.
Today, engine will not idle. Runs fine with throttle opened some, but with foot off of pedal, it just shuts down. There's some play in the cable, but the idle screw has not moved.
Showing a code 500 for Vehicle Speed Sensor, but had no running problems or erratic spedometer issues. Some strange shifting lately, so it's probably time for a new VSS soon.
Is it likely that my no-idle is the IAC? Could the VSS create this?
Thank you in advance.
edit: The search function is down, so sorry for the quick-to-ask post.
Today, engine will not idle. Runs fine with throttle opened some, but with foot off of pedal, it just shuts down. There's some play in the cable, but the idle screw has not moved.
Showing a code 500 for Vehicle Speed Sensor, but had no running problems or erratic spedometer issues. Some strange shifting lately, so it's probably time for a new VSS soon.
Is it likely that my no-idle is the IAC? Could the VSS create this?
Thank you in advance.
edit: The search function is down, so sorry for the quick-to-ask post.
Last edited by our911; Feb 11, 2007 at 03:40 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Toledo, Ohio
I just recently replaced my IAC and my idle/surge problem still existed.... Found out that I had a vacuum leak. The culprit was the vacuum connector located at the front-underneath of the throttle body that connects to the pcv valve. The connector was soft/mushy and cracked. Replaced with a piece of 3/4" radiator hose with a 3/4"x3/8" hose barb elbow and a new piece of 3/8" hose to the pcv valve. Keep it out of the throttle cables/ lever. John
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
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Follow-up: No-Idle Fixed!
Just wanted to post a follow-up and thank the owners, moderators, and contributors to this useful forum. With troubleshooting help from those above, the no-ide problem has been fixed.
I had already checked the PCV elbow before indicting the IAC, so while I hate to throw parts at a symptom, I was confident with the advice received and went to Ford for the part ($116 in stock). Aftermarket or on-line OEM (~$80) prices were better, but sometimes you just need a quick part.
After about a half-hour of knuckle scraping work with an 8mm socket, stubby 1/4 inch drive ratchet, 4 inch extension, and a parts-retriever close by, the truck fired right up. Not even a 1-beer job!
No tips to share, it's a straight forward R&R. I didn't drop anything, but if I had, it would certainly be lost forever.
The VSS is next. Thanks again.
Just wanted to post a follow-up and thank the owners, moderators, and contributors to this useful forum. With troubleshooting help from those above, the no-ide problem has been fixed.
I had already checked the PCV elbow before indicting the IAC, so while I hate to throw parts at a symptom, I was confident with the advice received and went to Ford for the part ($116 in stock). Aftermarket or on-line OEM (~$80) prices were better, but sometimes you just need a quick part.
After about a half-hour of knuckle scraping work with an 8mm socket, stubby 1/4 inch drive ratchet, 4 inch extension, and a parts-retriever close by, the truck fired right up. Not even a 1-beer job!
No tips to share, it's a straight forward R&R. I didn't drop anything, but if I had, it would certainly be lost forever.
The VSS is next. Thanks again.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,733
Likes: 38
911
Before screwing with the VSS (Easy and inexpensive) disconnect the battery over night to clear all the codes. Drive the vehicle normal for a day making sure she gets up to operating temp, goes over 30 MPH and has three complete stops (lights, signs) and back up to speed before a full key off shut down. If the Vss sensor is really bad you should get an ABS light (speed signal goes to ABS first)and erratic speedo indications. On the rear diff there is a plastic keeper that places the sensor close to the tone ring on the back side of the ring gear...some tine the connection for the wires is just funky, some times there is crud on the sensor or tone wheel...when you pull the sensor you can tell easily if it is a crud problem or built up iron filings.... if it is bad and you do change the sensor do the reset on the computer one more time after it is replaced. All this should clear up erratic shift problems also...
Before screwing with the VSS (Easy and inexpensive) disconnect the battery over night to clear all the codes. Drive the vehicle normal for a day making sure she gets up to operating temp, goes over 30 MPH and has three complete stops (lights, signs) and back up to speed before a full key off shut down. If the Vss sensor is really bad you should get an ABS light (speed signal goes to ABS first)and erratic speedo indications. On the rear diff there is a plastic keeper that places the sensor close to the tone ring on the back side of the ring gear...some tine the connection for the wires is just funky, some times there is crud on the sensor or tone wheel...when you pull the sensor you can tell easily if it is a crud problem or built up iron filings.... if it is bad and you do change the sensor do the reset on the computer one more time after it is replaced. All this should clear up erratic shift problems also...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 7
From: USA
Along with what Fred said ,if the sensor is covered in crud change the rear diff fluid or you'll be doing this again shortly .
Sure glad everyone is fixing their idle problems with new IAC's
I'm going to buy stock in the company that makes them!!!!!!!!
Rich
Sure glad everyone is fixing their idle problems with new IAC's
I'm going to buy stock in the company that makes them!!!!!!!!
Rich
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