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Installing IAC - Any Hints??

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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:17 PM
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Installing IAC - Any Hints??

So I decided to order a new IAC and I am wondering how I am going to get the old one out! There isn't a whole lot of room to work. Just curious if there is any words of advice out there before I invent some new "four" letter words my kids shouldn't hear.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 06:50 AM
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I lay heavy "moving van" blankets across the top of the radiator and front of the motor to save my ribs and elbows and keep from breaking any of the COPs and injectors.. then just get after it... yes it is back in and hard to see but the IAC removes and reinstalls fairly easily.... second time is much better because you know how it "feels" First time is a real challenge This is NOT a good job for outside in freezing weather because you need ungloved fingers to "feel" the things you can NOT see!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:26 AM
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Oh and don't drop the bolts. They will vanish into the never never land of intake runners. Don't ask how I know..
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Fredvon4
I lay heavy "moving van" blankets across the top of the radiator and front of the motor to save my ribs and elbows and keep from breaking any of the COPs and injectors.. then just get after it... yes it is back in and hard to see but the IAC removes and reinstalls fairly easily.... second time is much better because you know how it "feels" First time is a real challenge This is NOT a good job for outside in freezing weather because you need ungloved fingers to "feel" the things you can NOT see!
No kidding about not being a cold weather job.
I am waiting for it to warm up so I can get mine out and have a look.
But at -32.........forget it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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would a possible failing IAC cause an irratic idle? My motorhome did this last time we went out. Drove about 70 miles to where we were going to camp, had to stop and idle for a little while to find out where everyone else was camped, and I notice by idle was going from 800rpm to nearly stalling out, then it would come back by itself. It actually never stalled out, and driving it around seemed to be no problem, it was only when I came to a stop and sat for say 5-10 minutes with it running. I have a brand new fuel filter going in this week. Do you think I should replace my IAC also? Motor has 85k on it. Also sometimes the engine will blubber for a couple seconds when I start it up cold. Sometimes I have to hit the key 2-3 times for it to keep running. Once it's ran for alittle, it starts everytime no problem.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Yes that is the symptom of a failing or clogged IAC
Rich
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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ok thanks I will check it out this weekend. How much are those IACs anyhow? I haven't had a chance to do any checking on that yet.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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About $65 with tax
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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i second FortyFords response. I've changed mine twice now bout every 70K or so. Unfortunately for you though, you have to climb around the back of the engine versus pulling off the dog-house in my van. Easy to get to though in your situation, and be sure to have an extension-magnet handy!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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I did mine the other day in 17 degree weather. It wasn't too bad. Bolts are 8mm. I laid across the left corner of the front end like I was laying on a surf board. Put my Milwaukee flashlight on left side of engine and put hands around throttle assembly from both sides. I decided to get rubber hose off after piece was out. Everything worked pretty good. Original gasket looked good and pliable yet so I reused it even though I had waited an extra day to get the gasket here. I did clear the codes after putting it in because mine had set codes before removing it.


The IAC has a list price around $105 through Ford although I paid less than that. Carquest could get it for $68 although list was higher. I decided to stay with the official Ford product.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:48 AM
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hmmm, will a failing IAC show a code? I have my SuperChip programmer that can read the codes, should I check for a code before wasting my time changing out the IAC?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 10:53 AM
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I checked for codes when it first went out and there wasn't any. I unplugged it once and tried to run it and thats when the codes got thrown and were still on after I got done with it. Mine was dead as in wouldn't idle at all without my foot on the pedal.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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At least with the '99-04 Superduties, no, you will not see a code for the IAC.

There are certain monitors (tests) that are "calibrated out" on the Superduty V10 (or any V10, possibly up to '04).

These are the O2 sensor test, IAC, MAF, and a few others.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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Not trying to hyjack the thread but I have a V-10 that eems to have a similar problem like explained above. In the cold weather it takes a couple turns on the key to start the engine and then when it starts it stalls unless you keep the RPM's past 1,500 to 2,000 RPM's. You have to keep the RPM's like that for 30 seconds to a minute and then the truck runs perfectly fine for the rest of the day. It only does this when you leave the engine off for more then 8 hours. Could this be the case of a failing IAC or bad spark plugs? The plugs have never been changed and the truck has 98,00o miles on it.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Hybrid. I doubt it is the plugs causing the problem but they definately need to be changed. The truck will run so much better.
 
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