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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:16 PM
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Stuck Emergency

I have a 1997 F150, 4/2L, Manual Transmission and the emergency brake is apparently stuck. I can back up with little resistance but movement forward is a huge drag on the truck. Any suggestions to free up? Happened when the temp went below 10 deg here
 
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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That is easy to do. When the temp is going to drop below freezing it's a good idea not to use the emergency brake. They should break free although it might take a little bit. On some vehicles, when the brakes freeze you need to put them in 4 low to break it free.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 04:18 AM
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I had the same problem recently. I wound up disconnecting the cables because the drums were getting pretty hot. Both of my rear cables were corroded internally and not releasing properly, so I replaced them. I think it was about $65 bucks for the parts.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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e brake

Joe; thx. I popped the tires off an sure enough the ebrake is stuck on. Can you give me a quick pointer on the best way to disconnect the cable? I see it come down to a Y and branch off into the back of each wheel. Can I diconnect the cable from the back of the wheel or do I have to pop the wheel apart?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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I disconnected it under the bed just forward of the left rear wheel, where the front cable splits to two. I tied off the loose ends with a couple of zip ties. Make sure it's released inside the drum. The two rear cables were "frozen" on mine so just disconnecting them won't automatically release the brake. See if you can push the cable an inch or two. If you're not sure if it's released, you can jack her up and see if there's any resistance when you spin the wheel (if you have ltd slip you either have to jack both sides or pull the wheel).
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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Thank you, I will start there. If I need to separate the wheel, what is the process? I fear that even if I free the e brake, the brakes may be gone as my son has been driving around for a week with the brakes dragging
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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You might try tapping on the backing plate with a hammer.. down where the cable goes in.. this will sometimes allow them to release... then you can pull the drums and do whatever you gotta do.

Good luck
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Hi prega, Block the wheels on the front in the front and rear of each front tire. Jack the truck up place jack stands under the rear axle and re-check your chocks at the front wheels. Remove the rear tires. Climb under the truck and...remove the rubber cap located in the dust cover or backing plate of your rear brakes, If they are still there. If they aren't there then someone before you has left them off. If you have a brake spoon you can reach inside that oval hole and adjust your brake shoes so that the springs pull them back in towards the center. This will allow the shoes to contract enough to miss the lip that is on the drums preventing their removal. In order to release the shoes with the spoon you'll need to place a small shank standard screwdriver through the same oval hole while you turn the adjustment star screw inside. If it gets really tight while you are turning it may be laden with dust or...You may be turning it in the wrong direction. I would try turning it the other way to be sure. If you don't have a brake spoon you can substitute a flathead screwdriver #2 or #3. Be sure to clean the adjusters so they operate smoothly after you get the drums off. You should be able to remove your emergency brake cable at this point. When re-installing the star adjusters be sure to have them adjusted to the point that your brake drum will just clear them as this will save you adjustment time later. If your shoes are going to be replaced, be sure to replace the spring kits too. Not much money for the aggravation saved for later if your old springs have lost their strength from the heat build up of stuck brakes. The big shoe goes on the back (1) on each side and be sure to do one side at a time. You may need something to look at while re-assembling the brakes. Be sure to inspect your old drums for heat cracks too. If they are cracked...replace them. After you have installed the new shoes and put the drums back on install two lug nuts backwards on opposing lug bolts and climb under the truck. Using the brake spoon or screwdriver, re-adjust the star adjuster. Adjust it only a turn or 2 at a time and try to turn the drum by hand. In neutral (automatic or manual) with the parking brake released and the front wheels still securely chocked and the rear axle still on the jack stands. As you adjust the star adjuster and then turn the drum listen for the shoes to touch the drum. When you hear the shoes touching the drum as you turn it by hand...Move to the other brake set and use the same procedure. When you hear the shoes touching on that side get in the truck and push the brake pedal down one or two times. Now go back and re-adjust the brakes in the same manner as before. Just until you hear the shoes touch but now you'll take it a little further this time and you will be trying to turn the drum while adjusting at the same time. When the drum gets to a point that you have to work to turn it while lying under the truck go to the other side and do the same thing there. Remove the lug nuts from the drums and install the wheels and install the lug nuts properly. Try to spin each of the wheels now that you have the tires on the axles. You may note a little resistance and maybe not. Push the brake pedal down a couple of times and continue to adjust the star adjuster and spin the tire. At this point when you spin the tire you'll want the tire to spin about 1 full rotation before the brake adjustment stops it from going further. Do the same for each side. If you have replaced the emergency brake cable your brakes are self adjusting each time you use it and I believe they will self adjust each time you are backing up and hit your brakes to stop. Place the vehicle in gear or in park and take it back down to the ground. Test drive the truck after you have it down but realize that more rear brake adjustment may be required. I suggest you try them from a slow speed first to make sure. If at any time you have opened any of the liquid (brake fluid) part of the brake system you'll need to bleed it...But that is another story. Hope this helps and to any others that have read this...If you see any mistakes in procedure please...PLEASE bring them to my attention. Thanks
 

Last edited by 3-RANGERS; Jan 28, 2007 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:01 PM
  #9  
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Arrow

Hey prega, I forgot to mention in my reply to you that there is a release tab inside that oval hole that you have to push away from the adjuster with the small shank screwdriver while you turn the adjuster with the spoon or larger screwdriver. It is located on the underside and just outboard of the adjusting star. That release tab is also the self adjusting tab for your rear star adjusters. Joe
 

Last edited by 3-RANGERS; Jan 29, 2007 at 04:06 PM.
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