Rusted Floor Pans

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Jan 26, 2007 | 01:56 AM

daveengelson

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Rusted Floor Pans

May need to replace at least 1/4 to 1/2 of driver side floor pan. Wonder if it would be best to replace using 2 panels, or the entire drivers side with 1 panel. Not that knowledgeable, have some oxy-acyl experience, intend to purchase mig welder. The pans are marginal and may be repairable, thought would check with and see if anyone had any success repairing floor pans.

dave

Jan 26, 2007 | 07:03 AM

cujo8

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From: Williamson, NY

I had to repair an 8" hole in my PS floor pan, so I just cut out the rusted area and mig welded in a patch. The rust area on mine was not big enough for me to go out and buy a patch panel, so I just fabbed one up out some sheet metal I had in the garage. Generally if you have a lot of rust in your floor pan you should buy a replacement panel of the appropriate size, but only use as much of the patch panel as needed to repair the rusted section. I prefer to use a MIG welder to do these kinds of repairs. Good luck.

Feb 3, 2007 | 04:39 PM

Indy_Gearhead71

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The only real question comes down to whether or not you plan on keeping the truck or selling it down the road and who might be the buyer. I don't like doing patch panels personally since floorpans really aren't all the expensive and not too much trouble installing them, plus the finish product just looks better in the long run.

Feb 4, 2007 | 11:36 AM

daveengelson

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Interesting, no email notifying anyone responded to my post. Appreciate the info. Going to be keeping the truck, and as a 'do it myselfer' intend doing the body, and paint work. Truck is marginally salvageable, sat for sometime and there is alot of surface rust, but 2 or 3 areas where rust is serious and will need to be replace. Truck was originally one step removed from having a cutting torch taken to it, having no experience w/ MIG, thought I would start with the floor pan and if they come out alright, then procede to rescue the truck. Believe the passenger side can be saved w/ patch panel, thin metal mesh blends in w/ the topcoat, no holes but very thin in area's. Driver's side is another issue, will need to be replaced. Have an oxy-acyl setup that am still learning to use, not familiar with MIG welding, looking to purchase refurbished 220V setup if the old home wiring can handle w/out tripping a breaker. Again, appreciate the information.

dave

Last edited by daveengelson; Feb 4, 2007 at 11:39 AM.

Feb 4, 2007 | 11:51 AM

Indy_Gearhead71

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Anytime man,, and working with a mig really isn't all that bad, get a decent book and practice on some old scrap pieces first to get your temp and wire feed settings comfortable. Since you're planning on keeping it, I'd still go ahead and put in a new floorpan section, it'll be less headaches down the road.

Feb 4, 2007 | 11:53 AM

cujo8

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From: Williamson, NY

I use a 110V MIG and it works just fine and 110V makes the welder a lot more versatile in that you can move the welder where it needs to be using std 110V power.

Feb 4, 2007 | 12:03 PM

Indy_Gearhead71

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I totally agree cujo, and for what he's going to be using it for, a 110 version will work just fine, you can even tackle a bit of frame welding with a 110, it's just not as fast or as pretty as a 220 will get you. If the main goal is going to be body sheetmetal and such, I wouldn't worry about the 220 version, especially if you have power problems.