Over Heating, Then Not????
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Over Heating, Then Not????
On my way to work tonite I stopped at a gas station about 6 miles from home with steam pouring out from under my truck. After it cleared I took the cap off and the coolant level was just above the top row in the rad. I added about 1/2 gallon of anti-freeze and started the truck. I ran it til steam was blowing out of the filler hole with out the cap on. The coolant level dropped and I added the rest of the anti-freeze. I noticed the bottom hose wasn't very hot when I first pulled in and when I took the cap off there was what looked to be that blue RTV sealant stuck on the bottom of the rad cap. I started the truck again to head for home and about 4 miles back came to a red lite and noticed no steam from under the hood. The defroster was blowing warm air and when I got home everything was fine. Whats the deal?? Thermostat stuck or just a freak thing? Since I didn't make it to work tonite I'll be well rested to work on it tomorrow. Any suggestions guys? Me and my wallet thank you. B.T.W. 78 F150, 351M.
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Pressure test the system. When you say you added anti-freeze I hope you mean that 50/50 pre-mix and not just straight AF.
Blue form a gasket, one of the most overused substances on the planet... It could have your radiator all plugged up.
Blue form a gasket, one of the most overused substances on the planet... It could have your radiator all plugged up.
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Hey Torque. Yea I mean 50/50, fresh from the gas station shelf. I just changed the water pump this past summer. I used form a gasket sparingly and I don't think it was blue. I got the rad off a guy 2 years ago. I'm thinkin going tomorrow and having it flushed.
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Flushing would be good. They "rod out" the tubes also but sometimes that exposes a lot of weak copper tubes and causes leaks.
I use nothing but gaskets for the most part. They ARE the sealant. RTV is good for the front and rear intake manifold seals and a few other corner spots where gaskets meet. Use a light coat of spray adhesive on the removable component like a water pump, line up and stick the gasket on. Then use a light coating of silicone dielectric grease on the other side of the gasket. It makes it easy to replace next time.
I use nothing but gaskets for the most part. They ARE the sealant. RTV is good for the front and rear intake manifold seals and a few other corner spots where gaskets meet. Use a light coat of spray adhesive on the removable component like a water pump, line up and stick the gasket on. Then use a light coating of silicone dielectric grease on the other side of the gasket. It makes it easy to replace next time.
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The form a gasket I used a very thin coat just to the keep the gasket in place while I installed the pump. Same way when I changed the themostat. I don't know where the chunk I pulled off the cap came from. I like the idea of spray adhesive and grease. I'll remember that for the next time. When you say "rod out " the tubes do you mean they shove something thru the tubes in the rad? Can I just get it flushed with rad cleaner solution?
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They will probably ask you if you want the end caps removed and rodded out. It is more expensive but it is the only way to make sure the tubes are open. Cleaners may remove mineral deposits but it definitely will not remove silicone. If it is plugged once a few tubes open up then the flush will not open more.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
That's what radiator shops do. They remove the top and bottom (or side) tanks and run a metal rod through the tubes. If the tubes are weak, the rod will penetrate the tubes, and it's time for a recore.
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Sounds like a sticking thermostat. I would put in a new t-stat when you get it flushed they don't cost much.
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Also, to make sure you know.
The Coolant level in the rad shouldn't be any higher than 1" BELOW the rad cap sealing ringany higher than that you will get blowing out the overflow tube,
Too many people fill it to the top..that's a BAD thing to do.
You never mentioned what the ambient temp outside is
In ultra cold weather rad's can get spot frozen... not allowing coolant to flow fully through the system
The Coolant level in the rad shouldn't be any higher than 1" BELOW the rad cap sealing ringany higher than that you will get blowing out the overflow tube,
Too many people fill it to the top..that's a BAD thing to do.
You never mentioned what the ambient temp outside is
In ultra cold weather rad's can get spot frozen... not allowing coolant to flow fully through the system
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I'd don't know exactly what the temp was, but it was cold ( just above zero with the wind chill). The steam was blowing out of the lower hose when I noticed it and I didn't check rite away but the lower hose wasn't nearly as warm as the top. I'm changing the thermostat today. Funny thing last night at work 2 other guys said they had the same thing happen on their way home from work the next morning. 1 with a 95 f150 the other with a Ranger. Freaky. It was COLD!!
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What happens is.. the vehicle gets driven in the cold wind before the T-stat opens (which allows Warm to Hot coolant to flow through the complete cooling system)
So because the coolant hasn't heated up yet it is more prone to freeze or conjeal in the rad therefore making the heated coolant coming from the engine flowing back into the rad and can't go anywhere....blow out the top of the rad.
So because the coolant hasn't heated up yet it is more prone to freeze or conjeal in the rad therefore making the heated coolant coming from the engine flowing back into the rad and can't go anywhere....blow out the top of the rad.
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O.K. guys heres what I got. Changed thermostat because its cheap. Topped off coolant and ran engine for about 15 mins to get it hot. It took awhile for idle to kick down like always when its cold out. Shut it off, let it cool checked coolant level, it was fine. Ran it for another 10 mins. Let it set for about 1 hr. and it would not start.(Just shoot me, please) This morning I changed rotor and cap. (old ones were lookin beat) Wouldn't start. Changed Ignition module. Wouldn't start. It cranks, but does not fire. The carb is leaking gas in the front and on the side where the linkage is. For now it sits. I'm midnite tonite so I'll see whats up with it tomorrow. Anyone gotta gun?
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Just an update. Checked for spark this morning and no spark. Changed ignition coil and she fired rite up.
Took the new module off and put it back behind the seat for next time and stuck the old one back on. Got a little leak at thermostat housing but I think its OE and a bit rusted and dimpled. That will be the next thing replaced. Still have the leaks on the carb its going to get some attention here shortly too. Thanks for the assistance. The info on this site is priceless.
I had some time in the mornings (waiting for temps to rise brrrr) to really explore this forum and it is unbelievable the knowledge out there. Thanks again to FTE!!!!
Took the new module off and put it back behind the seat for next time and stuck the old one back on. Got a little leak at thermostat housing but I think its OE and a bit rusted and dimpled. That will be the next thing replaced. Still have the leaks on the carb its going to get some attention here shortly too. Thanks for the assistance. The info on this site is priceless. I had some time in the mornings (waiting for temps to rise brrrr) to really explore this forum and it is unbelievable the knowledge out there. Thanks again to FTE!!!!