uppipe replacement
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 127
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From: Maryland, WVU
just take your time with the bolts in the Y-pipe, use lots of PB blaser or some sort of rust breaker. i sheared 2 bolts off in it when tryen to pull the drivers up-pipe out to install the pyro prob....(should have just drilled/ tapped the manifold in the first place) took most of the day to get the pass side up-pipe out still attached to the Y-pipe so i could drill an tap the broken bolts out 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
I bought the powerstrokeshop kit last night, on that link. However it was the $215 one for the early trucks. It consisted of the pipes, the donuts and "hardware". Am i correct in assuming that the "hardware" is the two bolts per side for the upper connection, and the two bolts/nuts at the lower connection for the manifold joint?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
I bought the powerstrokeshop kit last night, on that link. However it was the $215 one for the early trucks. It consisted of the pipes, the donuts and "hardware". Am i correct in assuming that the "hardware" is the two bolts per side for the upper connection, and the two bolts/nuts at the lower connection for the manifold joint?
I just did mine two weeks ago while the tranny was out and that is the best time to do it. No donut at the bottom. Use plenty of your favorite brand of penetrating oil the day before and let it sleep overnight, soaking in. Especially the upper y-pipe bolts. They are a blind hole so you cannot get any in the back side. You may find (like I did) that you have to run the bolts out and in, spraying them each time, to finally get them to work thier way out. The hardest one to get at is the starboard forward bolt.
Remember if it's binding, work it in and out a lot and spray it with Free-all or PB blaster and it will eventually come loose.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
One more thing: When you get the new ones in, don't tighten anything down all the way until you've adjusted the position of the up-pipes so that they seat nice and square on the bottom flange. Leave everything 1/2 turn loose so you have some wiggle room for that final adjustment. Then tighten the bottom bolts first so they will seat nice and tight. Then tighten up the top ones and compress the gaskets inside the flange. I used a liberal amount of anti-sieze on everything and the exhaust is now as tight as a drum.
Good luck on your job.
Good luck on your job.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Don't bother with gaskets if the truck didn't have them in the first place. Use a VERY THIN layer of Ultra-copper RTV and let it cure overnight before starting the engine.
Go easy on the bolts and take the time to work them in and out as many times as it takes to get them to loosen up. That is less time taken than it would be to try and repair a broken exhaust stud.
I hate those, they get very hard from all the heat cycles and it gets very difficult to drill them out of the head without going off-center.
Go easy on the bolts and take the time to work them in and out as many times as it takes to get them to loosen up. That is less time taken than it would be to try and repair a broken exhaust stud.
I hate those, they get very hard from all the heat cycles and it gets very difficult to drill them out of the head without going off-center.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
Ok, thanks. I wont bother with a gasket. I have spray can of copper gasket sealer, that i used for my gaskets on my race bike when i had it. Should i use that, or go out and buy "ultra-copper RTV" (spray or tube?). I will wirewheel the head to make sure they are nice and dirt-free.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I use the tube. I've used both and there is nothing wrong with the spray stuff. But I like the tube stuff better.
Don't be a "cake decorator" either. Just a very thin coating, about the same thickness as two pieces of paper.
Don't be a "cake decorator" either. Just a very thin coating, about the same thickness as two pieces of paper.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Don't bother with gaskets if the truck didn't have them in the first place. Use a VERY THIN layer of Ultra-copper RTV and let it cure overnight before starting the engine.
Glad you can test this out for us Kris. Be sure to let us know.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
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From: 21791
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/gal...g2_itemId=6796
I believe they are backordered. NO more donut leaks because of the new bellows. They are about $500 natural, and $600 coated. I think.
I believe they are backordered. NO more donut leaks because of the new bellows. They are about $500 natural, and $600 coated. I think.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
You know, that is what I was wondering in a previous thread. Why do you need a gasket (per the manual) when it didn't come with one and what did they use at the factory? I would think with a good sealant and proper torque down that the manifolds should seal fine as long as they were true.
Glad you can test this out for us Kris. Be sure to let us know.
Glad you can test this out for us Kris. Be sure to let us know.
The worst one without gaskets that I worked on was on a Dodge Dakoda V-6. You could hear it popping from inside the cab while driving. For some reason a couple of exhaust studs were broken/missing/don't remember clearly right now.
What I did for that job was go get all new hardware at the dealer (nuts, bolts, studs) for that side and re-do the install. I didn't even get the manifold resurfaced as it wasn't pitted, it was still smooth on the mating surfaces. Bolted it back together with no sealant at all and it completly sealed up.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Frankfort,ky
my truck came with a bd exhaust brake on it. im sure this did not help my uppipe gaskets. guess ill wait till i come back from vegas and deside what to do then.
i was just wondering if i was getting a fair deal. im told any leak pre turbo will kill the boost level.and its loud as hell in the cab too. thanks guys
i was just wondering if i was getting a fair deal. im told any leak pre turbo will kill the boost level.and its loud as hell in the cab too. thanks guys
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Valley Forge
Just bought an 03 PSD. I noticed that it sounds like an exhaust leak when accelerating! Pitter Pitter Pitter--you know!
I crawled up under the truck yesterday--could not see any smoke under there--but about choked out on exhaust fumes.
The leak sounds like it is in the up pipe--manifolds look to be good!
Is this a tough job to repair--also--will this cause a decrease in power.
This truck does not seem as zippy and responsive as my 2001 PSD?
Thanks in advance!
Steve
I crawled up under the truck yesterday--could not see any smoke under there--but about choked out on exhaust fumes.
The leak sounds like it is in the up pipe--manifolds look to be good!
Is this a tough job to repair--also--will this cause a decrease in power.
This truck does not seem as zippy and responsive as my 2001 PSD?
Thanks in advance!
Steve