Engine knock
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Mpgvan:
If the beast has been sitting there for a long time, I suggest you do the following:
1) Change the oil and filter but do not start the engine.
2) Get one of those oil pump primers, remove the cap from the back of the engine (where the distributor used to be) and spin the oil pump with a drill motor until you see good pressure. Then you can start the engine after putting everything back together.
If space is limited, you might have to use one of those "close quarter drill motors."
If the beast has been sitting there for a long time, I suggest you do the following:
1) Change the oil and filter but do not start the engine.
2) Get one of those oil pump primers, remove the cap from the back of the engine (where the distributor used to be) and spin the oil pump with a drill motor until you see good pressure. Then you can start the engine after putting everything back together.
If space is limited, you might have to use one of those "close quarter drill motors."
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
save your synthetic oil money and put in a conventional low cost mineral 5w30 oil...you may not be keeping the Aero as a daily driver
20w40 is TOO THICK for Wa St winters
use Havoline 5w30 or Chevron Supreme 5w30...both on sale now at GI Joes....good reliable quality 5k mile oils in an Aero....
put the money saved into a tranny gentle flush
the 4.0L's cam position sensor makes it difficult to pull and use drill to turn intermediate shaft to oil pump to prime
after oil change
turn off intertia fuel pump switch behind pass. side kick panel or pull fuel pump relay....drain fuel rail at Schrade valve to stop all fuel flow
pull all spark plugs out
crank engine for 30 seconds to prime oil into bearings....bearing load will be minimal due to no fuel, no compression or power stroke
let set for 1 minute to cool starter and crank again for 30 seconds
should see reading on oil ?pressure? gauge
reinstall plugs and run
20w40 is TOO THICK for Wa St winters
use Havoline 5w30 or Chevron Supreme 5w30...both on sale now at GI Joes....good reliable quality 5k mile oils in an Aero....
put the money saved into a tranny gentle flush
the 4.0L's cam position sensor makes it difficult to pull and use drill to turn intermediate shaft to oil pump to prime
after oil change
turn off intertia fuel pump switch behind pass. side kick panel or pull fuel pump relay....drain fuel rail at Schrade valve to stop all fuel flow
pull all spark plugs out
crank engine for 30 seconds to prime oil into bearings....bearing load will be minimal due to no fuel, no compression or power stroke
let set for 1 minute to cool starter and crank again for 30 seconds
should see reading on oil ?pressure? gauge
reinstall plugs and run
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jan 31, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Cliff:
Only late '95, '96 and '97 Aerostars with OBD-II have the cam sensor. My early '95 4.0L (OBD-I) only has a plug with the gear to drive the oil pump.
Ignition timing is done with a crankshaft sensor near the vibration damper.
By the way, I have always wanted to ask, does your van have both a crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor? If so, one has got to be redundant, since the crankshaft and the camshaft are tied together by the timing chain, aren't they? (This may turn out to be the dumbest question of the day
)
Only late '95, '96 and '97 Aerostars with OBD-II have the cam sensor. My early '95 4.0L (OBD-I) only has a plug with the gear to drive the oil pump.
Ignition timing is done with a crankshaft sensor near the vibration damper.
By the way, I have always wanted to ask, does your van have both a crankshaft position sensor and a camshaft position sensor? If so, one has got to be redundant, since the crankshaft and the camshaft are tied together by the timing chain, aren't they? (This may turn out to be the dumbest question of the day
)
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
yes,
the cam position sensor is used to identify cyl 1 compression stroke and time fuel injection on sequential FI systems
the crank position sensor is used for ignition timing
algorithmic comparison of the 2 signals by the PCM allows cylinder misfire and uneven cyl. power measurements with resulting error codes
the really smart shop techs with scopes and PCM signal tracers can ID timing chain/cam issues
were did u find and what size is the oil pump extension shaft drive socket to fit the EEC-IV older 4L's.....going to be rebuilding a friend's Ranger this spring...it's handy to spin up the pump in the shop before install to check oil flow and pressure
the cam position sensor is used to identify cyl 1 compression stroke and time fuel injection on sequential FI systems
the crank position sensor is used for ignition timing
algorithmic comparison of the 2 signals by the PCM allows cylinder misfire and uneven cyl. power measurements with resulting error codes
the really smart shop techs with scopes and PCM signal tracers can ID timing chain/cam issues
were did u find and what size is the oil pump extension shaft drive socket to fit the EEC-IV older 4L's.....going to be rebuilding a friend's Ranger this spring...it's handy to spin up the pump in the shop before install to check oil flow and pressure
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Cliff:
I don't remember the size. I do remember using a small metric socket drive extention (1/4" drive) and spin that with my drill motor.
There was no resistance when you first spin it. Then the pump was primed and everything slowed down significantly with lots of drags as the pump was doing its job.
I don't remember the size. I do remember using a small metric socket drive extention (1/4" drive) and spin that with my drill motor.
There was no resistance when you first spin it. Then the pump was primed and everything slowed down significantly with lots of drags as the pump was doing its job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
done it myself also on lots of V8's and I6's but not on a 4L.....
parts houses carry a primer extension shaft with correct fitting for Chev SB and BB V8's and most of the older Ford OHV V8's
Chev's are just a flat straight lug on end of shaft.....
will look at pump shaft when we do rebuild and post if the Viagra improves memory
parts houses carry a primer extension shaft with correct fitting for Chev SB and BB V8's and most of the older Ford OHV V8's
Chev's are just a flat straight lug on end of shaft.....
will look at pump shaft when we do rebuild and post if the Viagra improves memory
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Pesobill
after reading this thread i got to thinking that you may want to try changing your oil to a synthetic oil. also change your oil filter (it may be pluged) you may also want to install a after market oil pressure gauge.
i am sure the guys in here can tell you how to install it and maybe what brand to buy..
PS, i know synthetic oil is expensive so have some clean containers handy if you need to drop your pan you may want to save your oil
after reading this thread i got to thinking that you may want to try changing your oil to a synthetic oil. also change your oil filter (it may be pluged) you may also want to install a after market oil pressure gauge.
i am sure the guys in here can tell you how to install it and maybe what brand to buy..
PS, i know synthetic oil is expensive so have some clean containers handy if you need to drop your pan you may want to save your oil
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Jaqcksonville
4.0l knock
As mentioned in a different post my 97 developed a slight tap after sitting for two weeks at 80k. I too bought the van with 30k on it. The noise is a tapping noise from deep in the engine, the aluminum oil pan does not help to pinpoint the noise. I changed the oil every 5k miles.The van has passed 220k now .The funny thing is that this noise is intermittent from a slight chatter to a hard metallic rap.Ive tried the B-12 seafoam,lucas oil treatments marvel mystery oil etc. Some said lifters, pushrods. rockers . I have never gone into the engine as it is bone dry with no oil leaks, The engine was never overheated and I can see thru the oil on the dipstick as each oil change. I gave up worrying about the tap. I drive 700 miles roundtrip very 10 days and tow a 1500lb box trailer.I have not seen any loss of power or miss in the engine which may suggest collapsed lifters or worn cam. My suggestion would be to go drive the van change the oil, synthetic not needed
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