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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #1  
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contradicting header info

The bottom line is that I don't want to spend 2-3K on a turbo for my 1992 F350 (beside the fact that it has 183K on it, so turboing is probably not the best idea).

So, from what I've been reading, some will say headers w/exhaust will make a difference in performance, while others say that it isn't worth attempting based on the way a diesel operates.

Does anyone have any real answers that they can stand behind???? I live close to Stans headers, so I was going to give him a call today, but I'd like to have some background before talking to him. I'm sure he can sell me on his product, but I'd like to be able to sound intelligent when I'm talking to him.

More truck info, 1992 F350 crew cab 4X4 4.10s. Pulling a 3500lb boat, and will also be buying a camper (2000-2800lbs).

This is why I'm looking into doing what mods I can afford.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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I pull a boat and camper with my '87. At least you have the gears for it, my 355s are pretty slugish on take off (and that's with a turbo).

Headers and a good exhaust will wake it up some. Maybe turn up the pump a flat and build something better for the air intake and you will see at least a noticable improvement. That much weight really needs a turbo though (sorry, I know you didn't want to hear that).
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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Chewy, you and I ought to get together - soon.

KJLYPW bought a set of Stan's headers and was very pleased with the improvement. However, it didn't come cheap. $450 for the headers and another $350 or so to run dual 3" exhaust IIRC.

Might want to think about dual stock exhausts with glass-pack mufflers. Not as good as headers, but I think you'll be surprised at the improvement. I'd be willing to help you out with it if you like. Just let me know....
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Chewy, I've down this road and talked to many diesel mechanics about
-turboring an IDI
-how an IDI compares to a cummins
The info I have gathered is not popular on this forum and with good reason.

Basicaly you & I have the same situation...an older IDI...what to do to get the most out of the engine,
-to be safe and have some good cheap HP & Tourqe...go with the headers
-if you want any real power, a turbo is the way to go
-this MAY cost you an engine

My 6.9 IDI has 175,000 miles on her and I'm putting a turbo in this year....will it shorten then the life of the engine...my guess is yes but when I purchased this truck, I knew that a new engine was in the future. Hopefully later than sooner!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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I have a great ram air system IMO (see my gallery), Stans headers into 3" pipes to a Y, then a 4" system. Before the 4" exhaust my run on a poor mans dyno,- 1/4 mile, known weight 6800lbs, and time, indicated 240 Hp out of my stock 185 Hp N/A 7.3. - that was before my 4" exhaust. What I can say is that with a recient road trip, mostly highway miles, up hill and down at 60mph, I achieved 20mpg, truck didn't down shift into 3rd (E4OD)unless I kicked it down to pass. I believe that with Intake and exhaust mods, headers, I have no complaint about the power my truck delivers. I'd like to put it on a real dyno, but then I wouldn't get the 3 times stock performance out of my ram air system.
 

Last edited by KJLYPW; Jan 22, 2007 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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I had a good long talk with Phil at stans headers. I guess he is stans brother. He swears by the fact that the headers and exhaust will make a performance difference. He also suggested running a dual exhaust off the headers.

If nothing else, headers will help to cool exhaust gasses if I turn the pump up.

I've also talked to someone at Dynomite Diesel in Monroe. He suggested doing pump mods, then move onto the exhaust.

KJLPW: What did you pay for those headers if you don't mind me asking. I was quoted $five something, plus, if I wanted the dual exhaust mandrel, another $695.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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Chewyjackson- Stans bill was 501.50 for chrome and a pyrometer bung added, plus 65.27 for UPS shipping. Then I got another bill for 125.00 from UPS for their EXORBATANT brokerage charges, plus collection of Canadian GST and duty charges.
(Sorry Cheaper- I go out of my way NOT to ship with UPS). I have not turned up my fuel yet, as I haven't seen the need to, but will consider it once I try out my truck with my 4000 lb F68 1948 Ford on a trailer!
I built my own 3" coss over and Y pipe, bought a 4" aluminized steel back system for a 94-97 turbo diesel truck.
 

Last edited by KJLYPW; Jan 22, 2007 at 10:06 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KJLYPW
I have a great ram air system IMO (see my gallery), Stans headers into 3" pipes to a Y, then a 4" system. Before the 4" exhaust my run on a poor mans dyno,- 1/4 mile, known weight 6800lbs, and time, indicated 240 Hp out of my stock 185 Hp N/A 7.3. - that was before my 4" exhaust. What I can say is that with a recient road trip, mostly highway miles, up hill and down at 60mph, I achieved 20mpg, truck didn't down shift into 3rd (E4OD)unless I kicked it down to pass. I believe that with Intake and exhaust mods, headers, I have no complaint about the power my truck delivers.
What kind of MPG's are you getting with that setup?

Originally Posted by KJLYPW
I'd like to put it on a real dyno, but then I wouldn't get the 3 times stock performance out of my ram air system.
You should be able to find a dyno somewhere that has the ability to pump 60 MPH air at the grille.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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So, lets do a quick hypothetical.

Lets say I bought the headers, will they fit to the stock y-pipe? The reason I ask is that I have the technical abiltity to install the headers, but not do all of the exhaust.

For that I'd take it to a shop. I just want to avoid having to tow it to the shop, as that would negate the money I'd save installing it on my own.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Milage around town (small town) 5 minute drives, nothing over 30 mph, 3rd gear at best is about 13.5- 14 mpg, F350 4x4 with dana 60 front end is not a light truck, so milage is acceptable IMO. Best ever was highway driving on Vancouver Island, empty truck, no canopy, about 21 mpg summer time. No Dyno at all anywhere near where I live. Header will not fit on your existing Y pipe, fabrication is a must. Drivers side comes down to just about the front of the transmission pan on mine, so had to drop down and cross over below the tranny pan. see pictures on my gallery.
 

Last edited by KJLYPW; Jan 22, 2007 at 10:46 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chewyjackson
So, lets do a quick hypothetical.

Lets say I bought the headers, will they fit to the stock y-pipe? The reason I ask is that I have the technical abiltity to install the headers, but not do all of the exhaust.

For that I'd take it to a shop. I just want to avoid having to tow it to the shop, as that would negate the money I'd save installing it on my own.
Sounds like you need to invest in a case of beer and call your buddy at the FAB SHOP and roll in on a Sunday and use thier shop
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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Like KJLYPW said, installing the headers is the easy part. From there you have to do a BUNCH of custom fab work - or worse yet, PAY someone to do it.

If you're interested in trying running the dual stock exhausts (each bank of cylinders into it's own separate stock exhaust pipe) with glasspacks, let me know. I have a spare stock exhaust system, and the know-how to get 'er done.

There is some debate as to whether the stock setup is 2.25" or 2.5" pipe.
If it is 2.25" pipe, duals would give you 7.05 square inches of pipe to flow through.
If it is 2.5" pipe, duals would give you 9.85 square inches of pipe to flow through.
A single 3" exhaust gives you 7.08 square inches of pipe to flow through.
So even if the stock pipes are 2.25" doing the duals is still the equivalent of putting a 3" system on.
When I put the custom Y-pipe to a single 3" system on mine the improvement was impressive. Putting a dual stock-pipe setup on yours would get you about the same, and would cost you less than $100 - probably closer to $75. If the stock pipes are 2.5" then it would be significantly BETTER than a single 3" system.

Just in case you're wondering, I'd like to do one like this just to see how it turns out....
 

Last edited by CheaperJeeper; Jan 22, 2007 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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[QUOTE=CheaperJeeper] There is some debate as to whether the stock setup is 2.25" or 2.5" pipe.
If it is 2.25" pipe, duals would give you 7.05 square inches of pipe to flow through.
If it is 2.5" pipe, duals would give you 9.85 square inches of pipe to flow through.
A single 3" exhaust gives you 7.08 square inches of pipe to flow through.
So even if the stock pipes are 2.25" doing the duals is still the equivalent of putting a 3" system on.
When I put the custom Y-pipe to a single 3" system on mine the improvement was impressive. Putting a dual stock-pipe setup on yours would get you about the same, and would cost you less than $100 - probably closer to $75. If the stock pipes are 2.5" then it would be significantly BETTER than a single 3" system.
QUOTE]
I was under the truck for the first time tonight and noticed that I have duals back to the muffler that appear to be 2" or 2.25" The muffler is approx 8" in diameter and exits with 1 pipe probably 3". it is just in front of the rear axel.
If this is stock it certainly doesn't sound stock.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Barehuggs
Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
There is some debate as to whether the stock setup is 2.25" or 2.5" pipe.
If it is 2.25" pipe, duals would give you 7.05 square inches of pipe to flow through.
If it is 2.5" pipe, duals would give you 9.85 square inches of pipe to flow through.
A single 3" exhaust gives you 7.08 square inches of pipe to flow through.
So even if the stock pipes are 2.25" doing the duals is still the equivalent of putting a 3" system on.
When I put the custom Y-pipe to a single 3" system on mine the improvement was impressive. Putting a dual stock-pipe setup on yours would get you about the same, and would cost you less than $100 - probably closer to $75. If the stock pipes are 2.5" then it would be significantly BETTER than a single 3" system.
I was under the truck for the first time tonight and noticed that I have duals back to the muffler that appear to be 2" or 2.25" The muffler is approx 8" in diameter and exits with 1 pipe probably 3". it is just in front of the rear axel.
If this is stock it certainly doesn't sound stock.
I'd say that's not a stock setup. The ones I've seen have a crossover from the drivers side that makes a 90 towards the back under the passenger side manifold. Just past that 90 it goes from 2.25" to 2.5" pipe, then the downpipe from the passenger side just stubs right into the side of the 2.5" pipe. Then it is 2.5" (some say 2.25") pipe from there on back. Take a look at the custom y-pipe album in my gallery. Yere is a picture of the stock Y-pipe in there.


And here is another from one of the articles here on the web site.


Of course yours is newer, so maybe it didn't have such a lousy set up from the factory.
 

Last edited by CheaperJeeper; Jan 22, 2007 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
I'd say that's not a stock setup. The ones I've seen have a crossover from the drivers side that makes a 90 towards the back under the passenger side manifold. Just past that 90 it goes from 2.25" to 2.5" pipe, then the downpipe from the passenger side just stubs right into the side of the 2.5" pipe. Then it is 2.5" (some say 2.25") pipe from there on back. Take a look at the custom y-pipe album in my gallery. There is a picture of the stock Y-pipe in there.
If that is the case then this is definately NOT stock.

No Y pipe at all just a 2-into-1 muffler under the bed.

I was out on the highway tonight. Rolled down the pass window and listened to it rumble off of the jersey barriers. Love that sound!
Wish I could have record ,I'd make it into a ringtone!
 
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