rebushing pedals
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Orange County, CA
rebushing pedals
Let's see if any of y'all out there can help me with this. I'm working on one of my '46's and need to rebuild the brake/clutch pedal assembly. Does anybody know how to get the pedals off the shaft so I can replace the pedal bushings? I know it can be done, I just don't want to screw anything up by doing it wrong.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Christmas Valley/OR
rebushing pedals
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 29-Jan-02 AT 05:02 PM (EST)]Sorry I didn't see this earlier, what I did was heat the assembly in an oven at 250 or so for an hour, coat everything with some parrafin (wax) and it all slid apart. The cast parts expanded more than the solid forged parts.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,643
Likes: 35
From: Orange County, CA
rebushing pedals
Thanks Jalopy, I'll give that a try as soon as the wife is out of the house for a while. I'm not gonna try explaining to her why I have truck parts baking in the oven
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Looking for any updates/ feedback on this suggested procedure.
Have enough play in both my pedals that I'm willing tackle re-bushing them. Already have the assembly out, tried some moderate pin driving but nothing budged.
Then the follow up question; would I re-heat the assembly to reinstall the pins?
Also thinking only one side needs to come off the pivot rod- the short arm to work the clutch, then the rod can exit to the left, thru the bracket & the brake pedal.
Have enough play in both my pedals that I'm willing tackle re-bushing them. Already have the assembly out, tried some moderate pin driving but nothing budged.
Then the follow up question; would I re-heat the assembly to reinstall the pins?
Also thinking only one side needs to come off the pivot rod- the short arm to work the clutch, then the rod can exit to the left, thru the bracket & the brake pedal.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 23
From: East Wenatchee
Looking for any updates/ feedback on this suggested procedure.
Have enough play in both my pedals that I'm willing tackle re-bushing them. Already have the assembly out, tried some moderate pin driving but nothing budged.
Then the follow up question; would I re-heat the assembly to reinstall the pins?
Also thinking only one side needs to come off the pivot rod- the short arm to work the clutch, then the rod can exit to the left, thru the bracket & the brake pedal.
Have enough play in both my pedals that I'm willing tackle re-bushing them. Already have the assembly out, tried some moderate pin driving but nothing budged.
Then the follow up question; would I re-heat the assembly to reinstall the pins?
Also thinking only one side needs to come off the pivot rod- the short arm to work the clutch, then the rod can exit to the left, thru the bracket & the brake pedal.
Then buy new bushings and a shaft if it is worn.
Ford Brake Pedal Shaft - 01T-7506 - C&G Ford Parts
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 331
Likes: 9
From: Oregon
I'm working on mine right now. No heat required, simply drive out the shaft retaining pin. The pin will have been peened to lock it in place. You will need to either grind the peened end off and drive it out or file around the end to remove the expanded part, then drive it out. I filed mine so I could reuse the pin. The bushings are the split type and press out easily. If the shaft has slight wear on one side, (most wear is to the rearward side), it can be rotated opposite from it's original position in the bracket and reused.
Brake and clutch bushings are the same @ 1.78" long x .885" ID x .951" OD, at least on the '46 half ton anyway.
Hope this helps.
Brake and clutch bushings are the same @ 1.78" long x .885" ID x .951" OD, at least on the '46 half ton anyway.
Hope this helps.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Hmmm, I have the 2-ton COE, which in '49 is an 'F-6'. Almost always ignored in the catalogs.
Here's my assembly :
How different is this from the non-COEs?
I cleaned really well around the pins & took off my spectacles, but I wasn't sure which end was the head of the pin/peened over. Tried the short clutch arm at 12 o'clock in the pic. Nervous about cracking the bracket if I have to wail on it.
Here's my assembly :
How different is this from the non-COEs?
I cleaned really well around the pins & took off my spectacles, but I wasn't sure which end was the head of the pin/peened over. Tried the short clutch arm at 12 o'clock in the pic. Nervous about cracking the bracket if I have to wail on it.
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Ground the peened end off, heated it a bit with a torch and drove the pin out.
There is a continuous bushing the width of the bracket and it has some noticeable wear. Also did not realize that the bolt seen in the upper ear on the bracket in the above pic was to retain the bearing- the parting line in the casting made it appear to be some sort of clamping/load feature. I had the bolt very loose but still there, so when I drove the bushing out, it got minority deformed at that end.
C&G Ford doesn't show anything like the bushing the COE has (which, BTW, is a fascinating piece of engineering by itself)… I will get some pics up in a bit but am I stuck reusing the old bushing??
There is a continuous bushing the width of the bracket and it has some noticeable wear. Also did not realize that the bolt seen in the upper ear on the bracket in the above pic was to retain the bearing- the parting line in the casting made it appear to be some sort of clamping/load feature. I had the bolt very loose but still there, so when I drove the bushing out, it got minority deformed at that end.
C&G Ford doesn't show anything like the bushing the COE has (which, BTW, is a fascinating piece of engineering by itself)… I will get some pics up in a bit but am I stuck reusing the old bushing??
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 259
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Pedal bracket does have a part number on it if anyone can look it up (the Green Book??)
Mine was 81W-2467.
Here's the bushing :
I would like to get another if possible. Can't reverse it since there's that 'locking bolt' to index it. Plus, it has wear on the other side, too.
Mine was 81W-2467.
Here's the bushing :
I would like to get another if possible. Can't reverse it since there's that 'locking bolt' to index it. Plus, it has wear on the other side, too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 23
From: East Wenatchee
There are people on this site that recommend this source for parts:
Chucks Trucks LLC., Ford Truck Parts and Restoration, Chuck's Trucks, Chucks Trucks
Chucks Trucks LLC., Ford Truck Parts and Restoration, Chuck's Trucks, Chucks Trucks
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
Chuck's Trucks, Carpenter, Mac's… no one seems to have the same bushings.
Mine measures 3 13/16 long (individual ones here would probably work),
1 1/16-in OD (or 1.0625-in) and 7/8-in ID (or .875").
Not seeing those measurements ion any of the above catalogs. Most are an OD of .94-in.
Anyone have FoMoCo parts numbers showing that the COE is a unique beasty here?
Worse case, I re-install the old bushing… any recommended method to slip a 'shim' of sorts in there to take up a bit of the wiggle in the pedals?
Mine measures 3 13/16 long (individual ones here would probably work),
1 1/16-in OD (or 1.0625-in) and 7/8-in ID (or .875").
Not seeing those measurements ion any of the above catalogs. Most are an OD of .94-in.
Anyone have FoMoCo parts numbers showing that the COE is a unique beasty here?
Worse case, I re-install the old bushing… any recommended method to slip a 'shim' of sorts in there to take up a bit of the wiggle in the pedals?