When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anyone have a program to estimate horsepower? I will list the engine specs I know.
- 460 bored .030
- TRW forged pistons 9.5:1
- Melling Cam Lift .544 int & .569 exh. Duration 224 int and 234 exh
- CJ aluminum heads 72cc with int 2.19 and exh 1.71
- Roller Rockers 1.73 ratio
- Holley street avenger 780.
- Accel 300 ignition.
Yeah, looks pretty good. I ran it with an intake centerline set up at 106 degrees, which I, personally, have found to be good for BBF's. Also, I didn't know the exact specs on that cam, but I used a lobe separation of 110 degrees. It may be a 111 or 112, but if it were it wouldn't affect those numbers too much. It probably would just slightly drop the peak hp but broaden the entire torque curve. If you have another questions just let me know.
Thanks BIG. I guess I can live with those numbers . Seriously, I will be very happy. Those numbers are very close to what my engine guy promised to deliver for my '56 Panel which will be totally street. He said between 450-500hp with over 500 lbs. of torque. Melling also showed peak torque at around 3500 rpms. It is indeed a Performer RPM intake. The LDA is 112. This is my first big block. I know it is not a radical build, however I hope my expectations are not too high for how I expect it to move the old panel...it will probably be around 4100 lbs with interior and finished trim.
Thanks again,
James aka Hwyhog
I will be running a C6 with a slightly higher than stock converter...I think 2000-2200. I'm starting out with an open 2.75 9" rear (It bolted right up and was cheap). I would like to go to a posi with maybe 3.25. Would like a 3.55 with overdrive ultimately. The wish list goes on and on.......
My only other car with real horsepower was a small block chevy with about 350 hp in a 71 Nova. That was 20 yrs. ago (I've since seen the Ford light though fellas). I'm expecting this 460 will dwarf that feeling even with the highway gears...
I can tell you from experience that your particular combo would be fine with a stock stall converter and would likely stall to around 2000-2200 anyway. That combo has enough torque to stall a looser converter like you are talking about to around 2600, probably. That is fine, I just thought you might want to know that beforehand.
yeah, I kind of learned more about converters AFTER the fact...Like how rearend ratios and vehicle weight play into the stall speed. Do you think if it goes up to 2600 that will only be during acceleration and not have any detrimental effect ( ie. heat) at cruising speed? The calculators show a cruising speed of about 65-70 mph at 2100-2200 rpms with the 2.75 rear and 28" tires. I don't want slippage at hwy speeds.
Thanks again for all the info,
hwyhog
If you plan on cruising at that speed with those high rear end gears, then I would stay with the stock converter. Just my opinion. I don't see the need for the higher converter. Doesn't sound like you will be hard core racing and your engine isn't lacking in low end torque such that it would need the higher stall.
no real racing...Just wanted decent street power. I understand the heavy c6 and the 9" like to eat power...what is the general rule for power loss? I've heard anywhere from 15-25% with this tranny and rear. Assuming about 450 crank hp...that's a lot of power not making it to the wheel...guess that's why it's good to make a lot up front...I've also heard big blocks can swallow a diet of 100 shot of nitrous easily without much concern. I didn't build it intending on nitrous, but it would be fun to surprise some of those pesky chevys and mopars. The engine has been bored .030, balanced, stock crank, aftermarket rods shot-peened, block shot-peened, with forged TRW pistons with 9.5:1 total compression, so what do you guys feel about nitrous once and awhile? I know... a lot of questions, but I'm trying to learn as much about these 460 engines as I can...it's addicting and I haven't even fired it up yet.
Thanks again
I don't run nitrous at all ever, I can in the class I race in (well one of the classes anyway) and most of the guys I race against are running 250+ shot of nitrous clear up to a 550hp shot. My motor would take it, but I can still beat those guys without it, and I have the consistancy to beat them often. Nitrous is very touchy about tempatures, and how full the bottle is, plus one time of forgetting to have good grade gas in the tank and boom no more motor, or hitting the button when the engine isn't warmed up, once again no more motor. If the nitrous is low in the bottle or it's cold and you hit the button well you dumb a bunch of gas in and no nitrous the motor falls on it's face and your embarresed. So basically I recommend staying away from the stuff, it's just not worth it and it's so much more fun to whip their tail naturally aspirated, and when they accuse you of running nitrous you can open the hood and prove them wrong. (I really love doing that to guys that go to the officals and claim I am running my nitrous in modified class, and the officials tell them well if you can find it we will disqualify him. They never believe it because I run the same in modified as I do in open/outlaw class)
a 100 shot wouldn't hurt anything.just make sure you've got enough fuel pump.a safe rule of thumb is to take 2 degrees timing out for every 50 horse shot,so you would want 4 degrees out at 100 horse.also may want the next step cooler spark plug.with your set-up i'd keep it at 100 hp or under.more and you need to start running race gas and the parts need to be better in the motor.i'd definitely get your tune up sorted out on a new engine before thinking about adding nitrous.misses and backfires are bad.
Thanks for the responses. For now I'll be happy to finally get this thing fired up...hopefully in a few weeks, just gotta hook it all up and get an exhaust system. Planning on 2.5" and 50 or 70 series mufflers.
Thanks
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.