thank you ser just what I was looking for a good repersentation of how it will work backed with the facts.

you said the hotter the egs the faster the turbo will spin.I'm geussing this on a curve like basses couse if the egts are to hot you can burn up the turbo right?so its like a happy median between to hot and to cool?I wish I could run an inercooler.

 

why cant you run an intercooler?

I was given an intercooler off a newer (03 or so) dodge ram today, im thinking maybe i'll save it for the diesel swap into my highboy... and i still have the cooler I grabbed for my volvo!

i personally think that a set of equal length headers, reguardless of length would help, simply because stock manifolds are always a compromise of some sort-whether it be cost, noise, or ease of production.

you also might want to consider ceramic coatings.

 

How do I turn up my fuel? Can I do it or what? I have the k&N filter charger,Power chip and big pipe. Gages also. No mater how hard I run it I never get black smoke..With my setup I get 26lbs of boost....Thanks for your help...

 

savage2211,
Most of the tricks we use in the IDI forum will not work on your Power Stroke engine.
You bought a chip to increase your fuel delivery, we use an allen wrench to increase ours.

The only things you can use that we do is the bigger exhaust and bigger air intake plumbing.

This is forum is for the grandfather, great grandfather and great great granfather of your 99 Power Stroke engine. 1983 thru early 1994 6.9, 7.3 and 7.3 turbo IDI

 

why do you wont smoke?to look COOL?I mean come on black smoke is sooooooo frigin COOL I love seeing 2.75$ a gallon beeing blown out my COOL 6in crome tip.couse all it is is wasted fuel.that big black cloud of COOL smoke is nothing other than unburnt fuel.if your truck blows COOL black smoke feed it more air.

I just turned up my pump recently is smoked like a train so I opened up the air intake and wow it reduce the smoke.

but with all said it is fun when a convertible is next to you at a stop light

 

I get a little black cloud out of mine since I turned the pump up to 3 flats from 1. It's ok if you just roll into the throttle, but stop it and they know you mean business.

 

There was a turbo system for the idi that mounted the turbo on the side of the engine, directly above the driver side manifold. It might have some parts info worth looking at.

I believe it was a Roosamaster setup?

On a side note, Here's some good basic turbo info. Pretty basic, but will help some peeps understand a little more about turbocharging

 

them new fords comming with twin turbos i seen the commercial on TV tonight!!!

 

build a set of short tubes out of heavy material to retain heat. Problem solved, now I just need a bender, a welder...oh and the ability to weld.
edit: oooh I didnt see the 5th page here

 

Whitefordaward,
I missed your post about the turbo temps.
The Garrett turbo is rated at 1270 degrees, which is higher than the 1250 that the pistons can stand.
So the turbo can handle more heat than the pistons.
Also there is heat loss between the pistons and the turbo.
The turbo sucks even more heat out of the exhaust.
The general rule is if you have the pyrometer thermocouple located after the turbo, you deduct 300 degrees from the 1250 piston limit and wind up with a 950 max EGT temp.

But to spin the turbo good, you want to keep as much of the exhaust temp at the cylinder in the exhaust till it gets through the turbo.
I used high heat ceramic paint on my manifolds and all the exhaust parts.
Everything I could wrap with header wrap was wrapped a couple layers thick and then soaked with ceramic high heat paint several times before it was installed.
The cross over pipe was probably the big heat loss on the ATS system since it wraps down under the oil pan and back up to the passenger side manifold.
And it works rather well, I can pull a big hill and slide right under the truck and touch the cross over with my fingers while the pyrometer is still reading in the 6 or 7 hundred degree range.
I also did the downpipe the same way, but that was only to keep the heat out of the cab floor.
Yes, it added a couple more pounds of boost.

 

so I should heat wrap my cross over pipe and down pipe

 

Yes, but if your engine is a stock build, you need to watch.
Head gaskets and high boost are not good friends on a stock motor.

 

its not that stock.I got my boost gauge to hit 18lbs out of a 12lb max turbo.is that a freak of turbo nature or what.my motor only has around 15,000 on the rebuild.it looks older than that couse of all the dust and dirt I go through.I'm not concerned about the headgaskets.they came from ATS.I'm starting to think I keep the ATS idi line of parts in buissnes

 

I finally posted some pic of my rig

 

Dave, so is it a good idea to use header wrap on the crossover pipe? I think the ATS pipes are cast iron whereas the Banks pipes are steel. I have heard from manyt sources about header wrap causing pipes to warp, is that true for our diesels?