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'02 PSD starting/running problems - help!

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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Exclamation '02 PSD starting/running problems - help!

First post - hope ya'll can help. I have looked through old posts, but my problem is a little different (I think)

Over the last month or so I have been having problems with my '02 PSD during the first mile of driving or so. If it is allowed to warm up before driving it's usually o.k. If it is started and driven right away it starts running really rough (lump-lump-lump) within the first 1/2 mile or so. Worse the colder it gets - problems under 30°F or so. Sometimes it will die completely, sometimes just barely stays running (have to pull to the side of the road/no power). I thought I had it fixed with the oil level being a little low (was o.k. for a couple days). Wife called this morning - truck is dead on the side of the road 1/4 mile from our house. Temp is -5°F. She was NOT happy... I tried putting some anti-gel in the fuel bowl and tank, let it sit for 1/2 hour or so. No luck. Fuel pump (frame mounted) sounds extra loud today. I figure this is either gelled fuel or a bad pump. I am thinking pump because of the long-term problem I am having. Also, I did another test - emptied the fuel bowl, and then turn ignition switch to on. Let pump cycle, shut key off and let pump cycle again. Empty fuel bowl again. VERY little fuel in bowl (drains for maybe 5-10 seconds). Should it be full doing this (30 second drain)? I'm picking up a GPR-109 relay tonight to try. Have a fuel pump coming in tomorrow. Truck is always plugged in below 40°F BTW (as it was last night). ANY help would be greatly appreciated - we are down to one vehicle and really need to get the truck running ASAP. Did pull it home with the tractor, so it's off the highway!

Thanks,

Scott Kilborn
Gilman, IA
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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What kind of fuel are you buying? #2 diesel or biodiesel?

Winter blend fuel shouldn't gel at those temps.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Winter blend #2 here in central Iowa. Really doubting the gelling for now. Will replace GPR tonight. Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 07:41 PM
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Update:

Truck is running now! Appears it was GPR. Truck hasn't run all day, I jumped the GPR when I got home (after trying AGAIN to start it). Only started after jumping the relay. Weird thing is my test light showed the relay was working (I'm sure I was on the right relay!) Anyway, thanks all - this forum is great!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by skilborn
Weird thing is my test light showed the relay was working (I'm sure I was on the right relay!) Anyway, thanks all - this forum is great!
How did you connect the light to the terminals?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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Skilborn,

Glad to see you solved the problem. The use of a test "light" is not the best indicator for this type of problem. The GPR Relay contacts may have become resistive (partial contact). This would cause glow plugs to not receive proper current, but a test "light" may still show a fair amount of light. It is best to use a Digital Multi-meter (DMM) that can provide precise voltage values that may have indicated a significant voltage drop (difference in readings) across the two large relay terminals.

In any case, you solved the problem and the truck is running!
 

Last edited by PA_Ford_Man; Jan 16, 2007 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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I hooked the clip to the neg. terminal on the battery, and checked for voltage at the two big terminals. One is direct connection to the battery, and the other is power to the GPs. Definitely should have tried the DMM. Will have a good test in the morning - supposed to be -5 here tonight. Probably should check out individual glow plugs too. Glad I didn't buy the $160 fuel pump!
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by skilborn
I hooked the clip to the neg. terminal on the battery, and checked for voltage at the two big terminals. One is direct connection to the battery, and the other is power to the GPs.
That's how it's done. Bravo. Now use a MM.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by skilborn
If it is allowed to warm up before driving it's usually o.k. If it is started and driven right away it starts running really rough (lump-lump-lump) within the first 1/2 mile or so. Worse the colder it gets - problems under 30°F or so. Sometimes it will die completely, sometimes just barely stays running (have to pull to the side of the road/no power). I thought I had it fixed with the oil level being a little low (was o.k. for a couple days).
Scott not trying to rain on any parade, but, I am a little concerned that you havent solved your problem.

Now correct me if I am missing something here, but if the truck STARTS, and idles fine, but then dies when you try to drive it away, how can it be a GPR problem? My understanding is that glow plugs and relay system is in place to warm fuel to allow the motor to start. Glow plugs are not ON when the truck is running. So, if it starts, it should stay started, and glow plugs and/or relay should have nothing to do with the problem.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:08 PM
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I had a similar problem, my truck would start fine and when I was driving it seemed to run fine but randomly at a stop light or when ever I dropped below 10mph the engine would die when I pressed the go pedal to get moving again, then when I would go to start up it would crank over but not start....eventually it would start up again. It turns out when I got my truck, the dealership had taken out the aftermarket alarm the previous owner had put in. They ended up splicing in a new wire in the ignition harnes cause one of the wires was damaged from an interconect that came with the alarm they had previously taken out. Just my two cents...just incase you have ever had any alarm or work done around the ignition wire harness.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:28 AM
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Smokin' - exactly what I am still concerned about. I thought I read on here somewhere yesterday that under some conditions (cold oil temp, cold outside temps) that the glow plugs can come back on several minutes after the engine is running. Is this true? Otherwise I'm still concerned. Truck started great this morning, but I did let it warm up for about 10 minutes before driving. I will try the next test tomorrow morning - starting and then driving right away. Anyone know for sure if the GPs can come back on?

thanks!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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The glow plugs run for up to two minutes. When you crank the truck, depending on the oil temps, the glow plugs can stay on for those full 2 minutes, or shut off sooner. However, after the two minutes, you can pretty much guarantee that they are off.

In cold weather, after the glow plugs shut off, the cold air package kicks on. This is the high idle mode, exhaust backpressure valve, and air intake heater. That's why after you crank your truck, you notice that it has a normal idle for usually over a minute. Then suddenly it will idle up and the hissing noise kicks in. The cold air package must wait for the glow plug system to shut off first before engaging.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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Also from your original post, I'm wondering if you've got something wrong with your fuel system. Just a stab in the dark, but maybe a bad fuel heating element in the fuel bowl?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Pocket
Also from your original post, I'm wondering if you've got something wrong with your fuel system. Just a stab in the dark, but maybe a bad fuel heating element in the fuel bowl?
That makes much more sense, especially his description of how the truck runs great when allowed to warm up for about 10 minutes. This would allow the fuel to warm as well. Wheras when the truck is started, and driven immediately, it is trying to continue running on cold and perhaps partially gelled fuel.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Yeah, glow plugs will not be the problem with the stalling.
I have two questions:
When was the last time you changed your oil and what kind did you use?
 
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