When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I seem to be having a problem with my transmission. Every morning when I start up my '94 Explorer (4WD Auto) I can back out of my driveway but when I put it into drive the engine revs high but the truck moves out very slow, like there is a slipping transmission. After about two minutes of driving it shifts and the Explorer drives fine until I turn it off and let it sit for a few hours.
My brother-in-law said it might be a Torque Converter leak. Any suggestions?
I had the fluid replaced about six months ago, and the fluid level is exactly full. The shop I took it to didn't recommend the full flush due to what he called 'high mileage' - 120,000 miles. They just replaced the fluid in the pan and the filter as he said that many times a fluid flush on high mileage transmissions would cause more problems than they fix. It seemed a bit odd to me, but I trusted that he had the experience.
I seem to be having a problem with my transmission. Every morning when I start up my '94 Explorer (4WD Auto) I can back out of my driveway but when I put it into drive the engine revs high but the truck moves out very slow, like there is a slipping transmission. After about two minutes of driving it shifts and the Explorer drives fine until I turn it off and let it sit for a few hours.
My brother-in-law said it might be a Torque Converter leak. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
P
HELLO,
GIVE US A CALL, WE HAVE THE PARTS YOU NEED TO FIX YOUR TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. IT SOUNDS AS IF THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS THE PROBLEM.
If it is a torque converter, how much are they to replace? Is this a do-it-yourself job or will it need to go to a shop? The Explorer is 12 years old and while it runs well otherwise, I hate to sink a grand into a $2000 vehicle...
The tranny level should be checked when the tranny is as operating tempeture and after it has been run through the gears. A short drive is enough. The filter on the A4LD that was in my 90 BII had a noozle that had to go into a rubber gromet on the valve body. It then had a piece that went down into the sump on the tranny pan to pick up fluid. My 90 was sucking air around that gromet and over heated and stoped pullin and puked fluid out the lover flow tube. This was in Utah on a difficult trail. I was able to cool it down and add another quart of fluid to the tranny and get it into Moab late that night. The next morning I had the same trouble as you are. Price in Moab was $2500+ for a rebuilt tranny back then and 10 days to do it in. I went to a place that sells BG products and added a can (qt.) to the tranny. This over filled the tranny but it liked it just fine. Drove it 1000 miles home to Wichita, KS with out any trouble. Check the level again when is warm after a short drive if you checked it when it was cold. Cold it will read over full. If it's full try over filling it with the BG stuff. Don't use any other brand. The other cheeper stuff has brake fluid in it to cause the rubber seals in the tranny to swell up. Problem is the seals just keep swelling up till the tranny locks up tight.
If it was the convertor it would do it all the time.
Not just at start up.
Your internal seals may be worn and a bit of heat helps them to expand a bit.
you could try some conditioner and see if that helps.
I prefer TransX but there are many brands out there.
It is not an instant fix.
I'll take the cheep route and go with a tranny service and add a container of transmission reconditioner fluid. TransX and Lucas have been recommended - anyone have another favorite?
My 2 cents...if you change the fluid and filter again, I'd get a motorcraft filter. I got one from the dealer and the next day, another one from autozone for my Ranger (same tranny) and there's a HUGE difference...visually at least.
The tranny level should be checked when the tranny is as operating tempeture and after it has been run through the gears. A short drive is enough. The filter on the A4LD that was in my 90 BII had a noozle that had to go into a rubber gromet on the valve body. It then had a piece that went down into the sump on the tranny pan to pick up fluid. My 90 was sucking air around that gromet and over heated and stoped pullin and puked fluid out the lover flow tube. This was in Utah on a difficult trail. I was able to cool it down and add another quart of fluid to the tranny and get it into Moab late that night. The next morning I had the same trouble as you are. Price in Moab was $2500+ for a rebuilt tranny back then and 10 days to do it in. I went to a place that sells BG products and added a can (qt.) to the tranny. This over filled the tranny but it liked it just fine. Drove it 1000 miles home to Wichita, KS with out any trouble. Check the level again when is warm after a short drive if you checked it when it was cold. Cold it will read over full. If it's full try over filling it with the BG stuff. Don't use any other brand. The other cheeper stuff has brake fluid in it to cause the rubber seals in the tranny to swell up. Problem is the seals just keep swelling up till the tranny locks up tight.
BG is most likely the most expensive you will find. It sure worked well for me. It's most likely the hardest to find also as it was only sold at shops that do work on vehicles. I have used Lucas products and they are good. But I think BG is better. Don't know about the other. Again stay away from the low cost tranny rebuild in a can products.