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Changing mine out tomorrow due to leakage. I have power brakes on a 67 F-100, automatic transmission. Any minefields here? It looks pretty straightforward...is it a 2-man job? Thanks for the help!
Its a one man job, but I always need to have someone "pump up and repump: when I bleed the entire system,If you "bench bleed" the MC correctly you should not have an air in the system problem
Its a one man job, but I always need to have someone "pump up and repump: when I bleed the entire system,If you "bench bleed" the MC correctly you should not have an air in the system problem
I disagree, bench bleeding should get the air out of the mc, but when you disconnect the lines from the mc to make the exchange you can get air in the system there, that will need to be purged. This forum will not recommend it as a proper and safe installation method without the lines being bled also.
If you feel that you need to clairify your post please do.
Its a one man job, but I always need to have someone "pump up and repump: when I bleed the entire system,If you "bench bleed" the MC correctly you should not have an air in the system problem
But you still have to evacuate the old fluid in the lines..otherwise old fluid will gradually be mixed with the new fluid.
Myself, Depends if I am alone or not.
I like to gravity drain the brake lines then tighten them up before I have someone start pumping on the pedal.
If I am alone, I either pressure bleed them or vacuum bleed them.
Just finished the job, and I'm disappointed. Easily swapped out the MC, bench bled it, installed it, bled brake lines RR, LR, RF, LF. Went through 30 ozs. of Dot-3, 2 test drives, more extensive bleeding, but the brakes remain spongy. (I did accidentally run the front MC compartment dry and had to start over...). Drums all around...what's my next course of action?
Negative; didn't think I had to do anything at all with the shoes. Also, with the automatic, did nothing with push rod extending through power booster...spongy is okay, I guess, but pedal travels all the way to floor at a stoplight...what's the difference between pressure bleed and vacuum bleed?
Is there a good way to determine if it's a bleed issue or a wheel cylinder problem?
I usually look for fluid slung across the inside of the tire....it'll usually drip out of the back and you'll see a "sunburst" pattern on the inside of the tire where the fluid had traveled arcoss the surface and been slung off.
I went around with this issue last week.If your m/c came with a bench bleeder,two tubes with plastic nuts that your circulate the fluid thru the mc,do it again and re bleed the brakes.If the M/C gave you two plugs and tells you to pump with the plugs in to bleed,get a bleeder kit with the hoses.Solved my spongy brake problem.If the m/c is bad if should still be fairly stiff it will just bleed by with steady pressure such as sitting at a stop light provided there is no fluid loss.Take it back then.If you lose pedal pressure and have fluid loss in the m/c check your wheel cylinders.
Joe
Thanks, Joe; I did indeed use the bench bleeder with the tubes. Have bled all 4 brakelines, and I get a steady stream of fluid, with no air, coming from each bleeder valve. No smattering of brake fluid was evident to indicate a wheel cylinder problem. Shall I start all over again?
Hold steady firm pressure on the pedal with the engine running and see if the pedal drops.If it does and there are no leaks or fluid loss take the new M/C back.
Joe
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