68 Tranny swap
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68 Tranny swap
Hello all, and thanks for all the info you provide. I'm still new at posting so please bear with me. I sold my 1970 f100 with the 240 engine and picked up a 1968 f100 Ranger with a 360 and three speed on the column. It has a number of problems that need to be addressed, but my main question has to do with swapping the 3 speed for an automatic. I've found a 72 I can pick up fairly cheap with the 360 and auto trans, and wanted to know what level of difficulty it is to make the swap. I've got a pretty good oil leak that I think is coming from the intake manifold, so I was thinking of pulling the engine and changing the head, pan, and intake gaskets at the same time of the tranny swap. Also, what is the difference between the 68 360 and 72 360? Would it be easier to swap engine/tranny combo? Any info is helpful. Thanks.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
First off manual transmission equipped trucks had the cross member riveted
in place from the factory vs automatic trucks the member bolts in.
On a auto it must be removed to get the tranny out which requires a big hammer and some beating. Going thru the front will be the only way to pull the tranny in the future.
Everything else should be a straight swap from the donor truck, don't forget the neutral safety switch wires.
Good idea to change the convertor seal in the pump or better yet the convertor bushing, you don't want to pull it later due to leaks. The pump body to case is also a known leak area.
You need the radiator with a cooler in the bottom tank.
A tranny jack not a jack add on as these things can hurt you.
YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE PILOT BUSHING IN THE CRANK BEFORE YOU BOLT UP THE TRANNY TO MOTOR.
Change steering column with shift linkage besides replacing the clutch/brake pedal to auto brake pedal.
On the 360 with an oil leak I bet 98% it's the intake, why pull the heads unless you have to, more work plus cost of head gaskets.
I'm missing a few items but this will get you started.
Remember work safe as this iron can hurt you bad.
in place from the factory vs automatic trucks the member bolts in.
On a auto it must be removed to get the tranny out which requires a big hammer and some beating. Going thru the front will be the only way to pull the tranny in the future.
Everything else should be a straight swap from the donor truck, don't forget the neutral safety switch wires.
Good idea to change the convertor seal in the pump or better yet the convertor bushing, you don't want to pull it later due to leaks. The pump body to case is also a known leak area.
You need the radiator with a cooler in the bottom tank.
A tranny jack not a jack add on as these things can hurt you.
YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE PILOT BUSHING IN THE CRANK BEFORE YOU BOLT UP THE TRANNY TO MOTOR.
Change steering column with shift linkage besides replacing the clutch/brake pedal to auto brake pedal.
On the 360 with an oil leak I bet 98% it's the intake, why pull the heads unless you have to, more work plus cost of head gaskets.
I'm missing a few items but this will get you started.
Remember work safe as this iron can hurt you bad.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jan 13, 2007 at 12:31 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
jgg, Carl has laid out some solid advice. Wonder if you might be thinking power disc brakes and steering in your near future for your truck?
If yes, you might want to look around for a 73-76 with a 360 and C6 for a donor. The power upgrades would come as a bonus for you with this models.
Think this project out, figure where you want to be in the end before you start buying donors.
The FE intakes are big known leakers, but the intake is all that has to be pulled. The ol cast iron intake is heavy, having an engine hoist to help with re-setting is nice.
John
If yes, you might want to look around for a 73-76 with a 360 and C6 for a donor. The power upgrades would come as a bonus for you with this models.
Think this project out, figure where you want to be in the end before you start buying donors.
The FE intakes are big known leakers, but the intake is all that has to be pulled. The ol cast iron intake is heavy, having an engine hoist to help with re-setting is nice.
John
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Beemer, thanks so much for the helpful information. I went today to check out the doner truck, and the transmission seemed a little sluggish. it also was missing some parts on the column. I'll take Jowilker's advice an also keep an eye out for a 73-79 with the auto trans and possibly convert the front drums to diskfrom the same donor. There are many things I can address in the mean time, especially that oil leak. It really drips after its been running. It looks like its coming from the intake. If I was getting leakage from back of the heads, would there be oil in the radiator fluid? Thanks again for the help.
Jeff
Jeff
Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
There shouldn't be oil in the coolant from a head oil leak.
If you get a radiator with a tranny cooler have the cooler flushed out and pressure checked. Not common but they can leak causing oil in the coolant
and coolant in the tranny, a big bad thing you want to avoid at any cost.
The friction materials in a automatic are paper base besides rust problems
on the hard parts (steel).
If you get a radiator with a tranny cooler have the cooler flushed out and pressure checked. Not common but they can leak causing oil in the coolant
and coolant in the tranny, a big bad thing you want to avoid at any cost.
The friction materials in a automatic are paper base besides rust problems
on the hard parts (steel).
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
Or you can stay with the original non-cooler radiator and add an aftermarket tranny cooler. Some folks use them in addition to the radiator cooler which can help to warm up the tranny faster on cold days, and some folks prefer to use them instead of the radiator cooler.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Careful there, too cold is almost as bad as too hot.
Long slow tranny warm up with short trips in the winter
will cause a lot of condensation buildup which will cause
rusting the planetary gears, needle bearing, drum and other
iron parts. This can cause rusty abrasive particles to float
around and wear as the filter is a screen that holds back the
big chunks only. (A pan magnet will help).
Also the moisture working against the paper base clutch
material isn't a good combination for long tranny life.
Radiator cooler first then your added cooler should you
install one.
If you have a good radiator or one that has been recored
have a different bottom tank added that has a tranny cooler.
Lucky me I did that to a custom 5 row radiator on a manual
box truck not knowing i'll get a automatic truck, was a simple
unplug radiator cooler and connect lines.
Long slow tranny warm up with short trips in the winter
will cause a lot of condensation buildup which will cause
rusting the planetary gears, needle bearing, drum and other
iron parts. This can cause rusty abrasive particles to float
around and wear as the filter is a screen that holds back the
big chunks only. (A pan magnet will help).
Also the moisture working against the paper base clutch
material isn't a good combination for long tranny life.
Radiator cooler first then your added cooler should you
install one.
If you have a good radiator or one that has been recored
have a different bottom tank added that has a tranny cooler.
Lucky me I did that to a custom 5 row radiator on a manual
box truck not knowing i'll get a automatic truck, was a simple
unplug radiator cooler and connect lines.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jan 14, 2007 at 04:04 PM.
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I was thinking the head might be leaking in addition to the intake manifold because oil is dripping down both sides of the back of the engine, and when I cleaned the engine and tried to trace the leak, it looked like it might also be coming from one of the heads. I'm going to hold off on the tranny swap at this time and continue to look for a good donor truck. I will work on other needed areas. Beemer, thanks so much for your help. It's nice to know I can get good advice when needed. And thanks to the others that responded also. I'm sure there will be more postings, I have a number of areas that need attention on this 68 Ranger. What's the name of that stuff you can add to the oil that makes it glow to find leaks?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
Glow? Oh that would be combustion or ignition of oil or vapors like a blown stock car motor. Sorry couldn't resist.
If it were my truck I would spray or wash down with paint thinner and brush
plus a engine spray cleaner or gun with compressed air.
When all dry look for the leak source while running or a short drive.
Most times is tracks to the rear from fan air flow making a big mess over a wide area you can't pin point.
Pat down with a clean paper towel around the back of heads and intake to locate.
The tin valve covers with old cork gaskets compress with heat over time making the covers leak, a common leak area. Every 4-6 months check the cap screw torque with an extension and socket, hand tighten not to over torque.
Check the bolt holes in the covers, hammer flat as needed backing up on a piece of iron if they became coned from over torque.
When oil leaks found you'll have a clean motor to work on making the repair easy.
If it were my truck I would spray or wash down with paint thinner and brush
plus a engine spray cleaner or gun with compressed air.
When all dry look for the leak source while running or a short drive.
Most times is tracks to the rear from fan air flow making a big mess over a wide area you can't pin point.
Pat down with a clean paper towel around the back of heads and intake to locate.
The tin valve covers with old cork gaskets compress with heat over time making the covers leak, a common leak area. Every 4-6 months check the cap screw torque with an extension and socket, hand tighten not to over torque.
Check the bolt holes in the covers, hammer flat as needed backing up on a piece of iron if they became coned from over torque.
When oil leaks found you'll have a clean motor to work on making the repair easy.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Jan 15, 2007 at 01:08 AM.